Bangor West Guide

A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'. Surely someone has done the crack.

The seeping right facing corner around the corner from ER. Twin cracks to Storm water drain.

Around the corner from Egg Rings. Grade due to the thin start.

Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off. Easy top out and set up an abseil on the rings 2m back

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread in the middle. Up past giant thread (don't thread in case it breaks), then up to clip-and-go lower-off. For the full value tick mantle out onto the top and belay off u-bolts a few metres back. Rebolted 2015.

Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start off cairn into roof then up using handlebar hold then up the juggy arête. 3 ringbolts then right at top to shared anchor with The Whorl.

start 1m L of Dorothy May. Jump from boulder to jug just right of crack (Lean Too) and up. 3 rings and lower-off. Previoulsy bolted on coach screws, rebolted Nov 2016

Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of "Dorothy May" The first 4m direct looks 20 I reckon, probably starts on the jugs of Reno

The line of very shiny rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. tenuous top-out then set up an abseil off rings 2m back and left to clean

Hard undercut start then up on good edges and slopey pockets. Easier for those with gibbon arms.

Great sustained wall climbing up sloping dishes. Tricky rounded top out, or cheat and lower-off the top anchors.

Rebolted August 2015.

Bolted line 2m L of Shire Republic. Funkies, pinches, underclings.

Crack R of Hobbit Nose with a blank section up high. Take cams

Nose 3m L of A Pinch and a punch. Up and left at 2nd bolt to a tenuous finish.

Flared crack left of Hobbit Nose, can be done entirely on hexes and a few wires, classic! Easier with the tree to start.

Start 3m R of the thin crack (KS) at the base of the gully, 3m L of HN. Can stand on tree to clip first runner. Up desperate start, then hard move left through roof (right is right out) and up to slabby top out. Best to rap off the anchors as it will wear your rope a bit.

Thin crack at the base of the gully on the left wall as you walk down, One hard move then up crack and nose on right to easy top out, good gear all the way (you can put a high cam in the protect the start). Double U anchor, best to abseil to avoid rope wear.

Streno, right arete of gully as you walk down. Sit start and hard top out to rings well back

Start about 1m L of Sandstorm by a little layback. Either hard straight up on crimps or (much nicer and easier) up left a move then right following pockets up to break (hand and fist sized cams). Up crack and tenuous slab finish straight above to rings well back. Good gear after start

Start on ramp as for Rainman but veer right using pocket, hard move to break (hand and fist sized cams). Hard move left into crack and break then up easily.

Ok trad gear if you look including small cams and a little wire in the 2 vertical cracks, and big cams out left. Start: The ramp 5m left (facing cliff) of the descent gully. Out left and up. easy to set up top-ropes.

Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two more Ubolts to lower-off. Harder first moves then easy top.

Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.

Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three Ubolts to shared lower-off with 'NFM'.

Start from the ground (don't skip first few moves by standing on the block).

Climb true direct to the anchors of pyromaniac, through centre of bolts on each side via gaston pocket and flaring vertical seam.

Start right of the ring.

Start well left of bolt then right to lower off.

Start: Starts 3m left of KK.

Bouldery start with surprisingly tricky top out. Start on ground, not rock on the left. Unless you want to.

Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start to a good fist sized cam in break, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. Next break is big so clip one of AB's bolts and finish on AB anchor. Maybe 16V2?

Climb is marked with a faded AB. Just right of the crack. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with lower off. A Sydney classic

Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of 'Andrew's Bulge'.

Start: 0.5m left of GT, Seam (wires)and thread

Up crack 1.5m left of ST, then up of blunt arete.

Killer start up to first Ring Bolt. Can be done as a mixed route.

Start: 1m left of Pitted Arete

Rebolted 2009

Starts 1m left of Mars Apple.

Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top.

Corner crack left of ZT.

Bouldery start then easy.

1m L of MPC. 2ubolts

2m left of SIC. 2 rings, shared lower-off with Sports Injury Clinic.

1m left of TaB.

The grovelly dirty chimney.

Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs

Start: On rounded arete

The original Go Go Gadget route. Start as for Go Go Gadget 2010 Remix then use the better holds to the right to gain the rail and finish directly up. An easier alternative to the 2010 remix on the same line of bolts (might be a bit harder for shorter folk).

Soloed by Jason Lammers before the bolts were in.

Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Originally toproped a bit right at the start.

Keep off the larger holds to the right to earn the grade.

Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off.

3 rusty carrots

Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B

Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack

RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is.

From the corner/crack of In Depth (marked 'ALH') traverse right to the arete of Fixed Steps. V4/V5? Technical, very good.

Corner crack just left of ALH.

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner. Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python. Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up . Really runout easy to deck. Dare Devil sports climb.

On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 Ubolts to lower-off up and right.

6m left of Whippersnapper

Climb diagonally right & up to the left hand lower-offs.

Start 1.5m left of Whippersnapper in the squeeze, straight up wall to last bolt of Nana in the dark and on to anchors.

The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has 3 bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to righthand anchor (clip and go).

On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag.

Mantle, then up. No pro.

Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.

Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. 18 if you start on the cairn. Variant top out via the mantle (21).

Start up Lucky's Roof to the 1st bolt then right to lip past 2 bolts (not on easy flake), then left to big flake and hard move up wall

Start as for Lucky's Roof then take the right leading bolts direct through the roof as for Felix (avoiding the major roof flake), then climb the seam crack up the headwall just right of Felix to shared single bolt lower-off. The headwall is a bit bold with the bolt spacing.

Pumpy fun. Start through roof as for Death of a Black Boy then left along lip and up to single U lower at top.

Boldly boulder out of the cave and up into horizontal seam to good gear. Continue along and up the 2 horizontal runnels to the next break and onwards to anchors of Death of a Xanthorrhoea.

Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars.

Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.

(Anti-clockwise) traverse of three sides of the detached block downhill from the crag. Starts on left hand end of overhung most downhill face with gymnastic moves following hand traverse line. Round corner and continue along (uphill) along thin wall. Round the next corner, traverse short low overhung face to finish in cave.

On the back of The Block, to the right of the 'PLEASE DONT PISS HERE' writing in chalk.

2 ring bolts to double u bolt belay.

Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision.

To the right of Please Don't Piss Here, on the back of the The Block. And, as the disgruntled boulderer has written in chalk, don't pee here.

From under the lip, up the line of rings to double rings.

As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave to give it a punchy and fun start.

Past Python, on LHS of cave.

Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted.

Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up.

Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack

Start in corner 3m L of Skullduggery, up and right then up rounded buttress finishing on right. Reachy and rounded. Recently rebolted.

There is a common variant of this route that uses the same bolts, but involves traversing to the right of the bulge towards Skullduggery between the first and second clip, then heading to the top on good holds. This skips the crux of the main route and changes the grade to a 16 or 17.

Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete.

Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor !

Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.

Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing.

Wall 1m Left of Grotto Crack, hard if you don't use the crack on the left at the 2nd U bolt. Lower off around to left. Beware the old garden seat at the top of this route from which people may throw down rocks and rubbish.

A great beginner trad lead with plenty of bomber gear and good stances for placing. You can even practice your offwidth chicken arm and leg jamming at half height.

The crack located just to the left of Buzz Boys Beat.

Shares anchors with Buzz Boys Beat. If you're tall enough you can reach them from the ledge.

Tricky! Start by climbing directly up arete and continue up past 3 Ubolts to lower off.

Boulder problem start to Zip from under roof

Shortest stamina route in the Shire. Start up Zip then left along traverse line through roof and up. Right to Zip anchors or backjump (easier)

Start on other side of block near gully. one carrot

Highball arete left of Ali. Sit down / Start lowwww. Hard start, easy but high finish

Start on right, either hard boulder or jump off block to jugs and up R edge to lower off.

Left of racy, hard start and up then R to shared lower off with Racy

Start about 2m L of the corner (Slobbery Dog) and up then big move left. Lungey stuff.

Gabriele G

Jorge Packer

Start on boulder 3m R of Belly Bulge, step on to lip of roof and up slab.

Start 1m R of crack, up past 2 Ubolts then left to shared U and lower-off.

Advertencia Roca: big head sized bit of rock was ripped out during a lead attempt today and left at the base of the ro

Start on left of crack and up to lower off.

Wide roof crack mini route that requires nearly zero off-widthing!

Can be done either as a trad route (protect with 1-2 size 6s) or as a high ball boulder.

Left most route, facing the cliff. A bit lame, but still fun. Great newbie climb. Beware of soft and lose sandstone. Much deterioration on this climb.

Up dirty looking crack to slopers. Committing finish.

Up edges and block, then round left of roof and up. Use long slings or rap down to clean due to rope drag. Beware of soft and loose sandstone in cave under overhang at the finish. Several holds broken off on start making it much more difficult to get going.

Up arete then through roof to the right. Again, use long slings or rap down to clean. Beware of soft and loose sandstone in cave under overhang at the finish.

Jugs, crimps and slopers all in less than 7m of climbing.

Crimpy and steep.