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Woronora Lookout Guide

  • Contexto de grado: AU
  • Fotos: 6
  • Ascensiones: 160
  • Aka: First Avenue

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Patrick Burr Demetrius mathew Adam Rabjohns James Harrington Jake Delaney Luke C

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Woronora Lookout 55 routes in Crag

Summary:
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Estacionalidad

Escalada clásica y Búlder

Lat / Long: -34.030847, 151.045605

Resumen

Extensive collection of short trad, solo, or bouldering lines (often toproped). Really good rock and generally good gear.

restricciones

Public land

Acceso

This area is behind the Woronora Cemetery in the suburb of Loftus. Park at the dead end at the junction of First and Second Ave. Go through the metal gate on the right and walk north along the fence bordering the cemetery. Cross a small creek and turn left. Continue on for a hundred metres, ignoring the turns on the left. The track goes up a little rocky hill then goes flat for another hundred metres. Ignore the 2 large tracks on the right and walk 100m to the lookout over river and park bench. Scramble down left of the park bench through the rubbish 50m to the left end of the crag if you must. Easier to turn left off track 40m before the lookout (10m past 2nd track on the right) and scramble down the Lean To gully. It faces south west so gets some afternoon sun.

Ética

Bouldering fear, trad fear, or top-roping only. No bolts! There are some old bolts at the top, don't trust them! Use trees as anchors and only use the bolts as directionals (if at all).

Historia

People have been climbing here for decades and many routes have a small square painted at the base, presumably indicating that they have been climbed. Many of the routes were top-roped then soloed. Recently some of the lines have been led on gear like little gritstone routes. A few have perfect gear!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Well

Starts inside a bowl shaped cave

PA: Graham Fairburn

V3 Búlder
2 Giovanni CM

Traverse of The Overlap eliminating the horizontal break. Thin.

V2 Búlder 8m
3 Juggy Prow

Steep juggy arete below The Overlap

V0 Búlder
4 The Coffin

Climb out of hole onto slab

Búlder
5 Pumpty Dumpty

Left side of The Overhang Boulder

V0 Búlder 6m
6 Traverse

Left to right low traverse of The Overhang Boulder - finishing up right arete.

V2 Búlder 12m
7 The Sloper

Eliminate up the middle of The Overhang Boulder

V4 Búlder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Crimp Seam

Weakness up face just right of The Overhang Boulder

V1 Búlder
9 Zircon

Impossible feeling blunt and blank arete. gets easier

V3 Búlder
10 Kathy's Crack

Hand crack right of arete

V0 Búlder
11 Kimmy's Crack

Easier hand crack to the right of Kathy's Crack.

PA: D Kalatzis

15 V0 Búlder 6m
12 Fingerboard

Start at small square 4m L of Lean to. Straight up past good cam break

PA: Michael Law, 2017

17 Clásica 8m
13 Squiggly crack

Start on wall just left of arete (Lean Too) and straight up past breaks then thin crack (with gear!). Good gear.

PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

18 Clásica 9m
14 Lean to

Best to climb right side of the arete past good cam breaks. . Good gear.

PA: Ian Ryan, 2017

17 Clásica 6m
15 Black Column

Crimpy up the black column between the two orange scoops to a hard top out Looks much harder than V1.

V1 Búlder
16 The Retrograde Shuffle project

Wide crack 2m R of Black Column. Closed project- Go Sandy!

Equip: Sandy Climber, 2017

ClásicaProyecto 5m
17 Bodywork

Start 2m R of Black column. Left to right across wide crack and into flakes in the ceiling to the right, then up these to a few holds in a scoop. High!

V2 Búlder 6m
18 Overlander

Right to left along the short wall, not using the top holds.

V2 Búlder
19 Greyline

Follow black seam 3m L of Yellow Edge. Good wires at half height which protects the hard move to jugs.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

23 ClásicaProyecto 9m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Throwback

Good gear and crimps up the yellow seam left of Yellow Edge.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

25 Clásica 7m
21 Yellow Edge

ok gear but pumpy to place. Up arete and thin crack, step right at top to jugs (as for Zilla). Old top rope route.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

21 Clásica 9m
22 Zilla

Start 2m R of the arete. Crux by gear then runout finish up seam. .

PA: Michael Law, 2017

23 Clásica 9m
23 Resting Slob Face

Start below seam in middle of wall 2m R of Zilla. Great hidden wires in seam, out left a move and up.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

23 Clásica
24 Old Salty

Start 5m R of Zilla. Up wall left of arete of gully, good sling at top. A thin move as you leave the gear.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

21 Clásica 9m
25 Wilshire

Start behind Freestanding block on right side of gully at Orange wall. Up past glued up hold

V3 Búlder 7m
26 SSCC11

In gully behind the freestanding Block, easy crack on right, about 7m right of Wilshire. An old scout's route (Named after SSCC1 at Piddo), first recorded lead. Good gear.

PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

15 Clásica 9m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 SSCC12

Arete right of SSCC11. An old Scout's top rope route. A bit runout at top to small spike runner. First recorded lead.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

17 Clásica 9m
28 Little Ridge

Tiny wall left of gully, about 3m R of SSCC11. Good protection, sling at top

PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

15 Clásica 6m
29 TicTacToe

Start at left side of black wall some 15m R of the Freestanding Block. Straight up, some gear at the top when it gets easy

PA: Michael Law, 2017

19 Clásica
30 Jeff's Traverse

Start as for TicTacToe and follow break right for 3m and up seam. Good pro.

PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

18 Clásica 10m
31 Airtime

Runout and easy. start in little corner at right end of Jeff's traverse wall

PA: Michael Law, 2017

20 Clásica 9m
32 BlitzJasonKreig

Punchy finish above good gear. Climb wall 3m L of Zimmer Crack

PA: Jason Budden, 2017

21 Clásica 9m
33 Zimmer crack

About 15m R of TicTacToe wall. Up corner and layback roof (big cam). Good gear.

PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

16 Clásica 9m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
34 Son of Jeff's Traverse

Start just right of Zimmer crack and follow good break right and around the arete to finish up Thong Ridge. Good protection.

PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

14 Clásica 13m
35 Layer cake

Start middle of wall and up over bulge, then up small cliffline behind. Good gear.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

16 Clásica 15m
36 Step up

Start at blank section just left of the arete. Up to good break and onwards.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

18 Clásica 10m
37 Thong ridge

Up curved slab on right end of wall, lots of gear. A good route to learn trad gear on.

PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

11 Clásica 10m
38 Elebellyphant

Rounded elephant belly arete 4m R of Thong Ridge and 4m left of fridge Block. Good gear at 40% and at the top.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

24 Clásica
39 Obi-Wan Camnobi

Wide crack on LHS of gully left of Fridge left Side. Good gear.

PA: Drew Ivison, Ag 2017

16 Clásica 9m
40 gully slab

RHS of gully. Unprotectable easy climbing with technical finish.

PA: Patrick Burr, Ag 2017

16 Clásica
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
41 Fridge left side

Easy but run out on the easy finishing moves. Climb the easy left arete of the fridge block, with a good thread at half height

PA: Michael Law, 2017

19 Clásica 8m
42 Do you even lift?

two big undercling moves and good pro. Start 2m R of arete, up to break, step R to hidden underclings and up leftwards

PA: Michael Law, 2017

22 Clásica 10m
43 VanGough

Start in middle of wall (white square) below thin seam. Up, small wires protect a hard move then easy to top. Good gear.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

23 Clásica 10m
44 Vincent

Start in middle of the Fridge block, about 1 m right of white square, up to twin cracks and up finishing crack. Pumpy to place pro. Good gear.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

20 Clásica 10m
45 Vasarri

Pumpy Arapiles classic with good wires. Start and up to seam 1m R of Vincent. Good gear.

PA: Michael Law, 2017

19 Clásica 10m
46 Casting Couch

Start up Vasarri then traverse 2m R along lip and up line. Pumpy with good gear.

PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

20 Clásica 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
47 Groundswell / Groundswell traverse

2 M L of Nothing new under the sun (right arete) and the gully. Good gear out left at half height, the right and up. originally traversed left at top .Go straight up over final wall to poor laybacks. Good gear. Pumpy. Best with double ropes as gear is out right and left

PA: Michael Law, 2017

PA: Michael Law, 2017

23 Clásica 10m
48 Nothing new under the sun

RHS of the cave, arete facing Ariel Grime. Good pro until the top.

PA: Lachlan, Ag 2017

16 Clásica 10m
49 Ariel Grime

Lovely left arete of Green Camalot Wall (take 4!). Start on right, I used double ropes so I could clip cams on each side in top break. Many medium sized cams used.

PA: Mikl Law, 2017

20 Clásica 10m
50 Ryan's Leap

Up wall about 3m R of the arete (Ariel Grime) past 2 good breaks to a good jug to sling at the top.

PA: Ian Ryan, 2017

22 Clásica 10m
51 LivingStone

Lovely climbing. Up wall 4 m R of Ariel Grime past ramp. Don't fill the crucial hold with cams. There is a small cam and good sling out left to protect topout.

PA: mikl, 2017

21 Clásica 8m
52 Pendragon / Uthers deceit

Start on right side of Green Camalot Wall, a meter right of LivingStone. Move left at the top to mantel. Good gear in break and average gear at top (sling, wires cam).

PA: Patrick Burr, Ag 2017

18 Clásica 9m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
53 Patrick's Proj – OPEN

Right of green camelot wall. Middle line at the end of the brake traverse.

ClásicaProyecto
54 SerendipitHole

Around the corner from the blank wall. Face climbing between arete (nice project?) and worthless crack.

PA: Patrick Burr, Ag 2017

16 Clásica
55 Lil tigre

Hand crack int he corner right of the tree. Top out right or far left.

PA: Drew Ivison, Ag 2017

17 Clásica

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
11 Thong ridge Clásica 10m
14 Son of Jeff's Traverse Clásica 13m
15 Little Ridge Clásica 6m
SSCC11 Clásica 9m
15 V0 Kimmy's Crack Búlder 6m
V0 Juggy Prow Búlder
Kathy's Crack Búlder
Pumpty Dumpty Búlder 6m
16 Layer cake Clásica 15m
Nothing new under the sun Clásica 10m
Obi-Wan Camnobi Clásica 9m
SerendipitHole Clásica
Zimmer crack Clásica 9m
gully slab Clásica
17 Fingerboard Clásica 8m
Lean to Clásica 6m
Lil tigre Clásica
SSCC12 Clásica 9m
18 Jeff's Traverse Clásica 10m
Pendragon Clásica 9m
Squiggly crack Clásica 9m
Step up Clásica 10m
19 Fridge left side Clásica 8m
TicTacToe Clásica
Vasarri Clásica 10m
V1 Black Column Búlder
Crimp Seam Búlder
20 Airtime Clásica 9m
Ariel Grime Clásica 10m
Casting Couch Clásica 12m
Vincent Clásica 10m
V2 Bodywork Búlder 6m
Giovanni CM Búlder 8m
Overlander Búlder
Traverse Búlder 12m
21 BlitzJasonKreig Clásica 9m
LivingStone Clásica 8m
Old Salty Clásica 9m
Yellow Edge Clásica 9m
22 Do you even lift? Clásica 10m
Ryan's Leap Clásica 10m
V3 The Well Búlder
Wilshire Búlder 7m
Zircon Búlder
23 Greyline ClásicaProyecto 9m
Groundswell Clásica 10m
Resting Slob Face Clásica
VanGough Clásica 10m
Zilla Clásica 9m
V4 The Sloper Búlder
24 Elebellyphant Clásica
25 Throwback Clásica 7m
? Patrick's Proj – OPEN ClásicaProyecto
The Coffin Búlder
The Retrograde Shuffle project ClásicaProyecto 5m
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