A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Patrick Burr Demetrius Brendan Heywood mathew Adam Rabjohns Graham Dowden James Harrington Jake Delaney Luke C Lachlan
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Woronora Lookout / First Avenue 55 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Woronora Lookout 55 routes in Crag
- Summary:
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Escalada clásica y Búlder
Lat / Long: -34.030847, 151.045605
Resumen
Extensive collection of short trad, solo, or bouldering lines (often toproped). Really good rock and generally good gear.
restricciones
Public land
Acceso
This area is behind the Woronora Cemetery in the suburb of Loftus. Park at the dead end at the junction of First and Second Ave. Go through the metal gate on the right and walk north along the fence bordering the cemetery. Cross a small creek and turn left. Continue on for a hundred metres, ignoring the turns on the left. The track goes up a little rocky hill then goes flat for another hundred metres. Ignore the 2 large tracks on the right and walk 100m to the lookout over river and park bench. Scramble down left of the park bench through the rubbish 50m to the left end of the crag if you must. Easier to turn left off track 40m before the lookout (10m past 2nd track on the right) and scramble down the Lean To gully. It faces south west so gets some afternoon sun.
Ética
Bouldering fear, trad fear, or top-roping only. No bolts! There are some old bolts at the top, don't trust them! Use trees as anchors and only use the bolts as directionals (if at all).
Historia
People have been climbing here for decades and many routes have a small square painted at the base, presumably indicating that they have been climbed. Many of the routes were top-roped then soloed. Recently some of the lines have been led on gear like little gritstone routes. A few have perfect gear!
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★★ The Well
Starts inside a bowl shaped cave PA: Graham Fairburn | V3 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Giovanni CM
Traverse of The Overlap eliminating the horizontal break. Thin. | V2 | 8m | |||||
3 |
★ Juggy Prow
Steep juggy arete below The Overlap | V0 | ||||||
4 |
The Coffin
Climb out of hole onto slab | |||||||
5 |
Pumpty Dumpty
Left side of The Overhang Boulder | V0 | 6m | |||||
6 |
★★ Traverse
Left to right low traverse of The Overhang Boulder - finishing up right arete. | V2 | 12m | |||||
7 |
The Sloper
Eliminate up the middle of The Overhang Boulder | V4 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★ Crimp Seam
Weakness up face just right of The Overhang Boulder | V1 | ||||||
9 |
★★ Zircon
Impossible feeling blunt and blank arete. gets easier | V3 | ||||||
10 |
★ Kathy's Crack
Hand crack right of arete | V0 | ||||||
11 |
★ Kimmy's Crack
Easier hand crack to the right of Kathy's Crack. PA: D Kalatzis | 15 V0 | 6m | |||||
12 |
★ Fingerboard
Start at small square 4m L of Lean to. Straight up past good cam break PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 17 | 8m | |||||
13 |
★ Squiggly crack
Start on wall just left of arete (Lean Too) and straight up past breaks then thin crack (with gear!). Good gear. PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 18 | 9m | |||||
14 |
★★ Lean to
Best to climb right side of the arete past good cam breaks. . Good gear. PA: Ian Ryan, 2017 | 17 | 6m | |||||
15 |
Black Column
Crimpy up the black column between the two orange scoops to a hard top out Looks much harder than V1. | V1 | ||||||
16 |
The Retrograde Shuffle project
Wide crack 2m R of Black Column. Closed project- Go Sandy! Equip: Sandy Climber, 2017 | 5m | ||||||
17 |
Bodywork
Start 2m R of Black column. Left to right across wide crack and into flakes in the ceiling to the right, then up these to a few holds in a scoop. High! | V2 | 6m | |||||
18 |
Overlander
Right to left along the short wall, not using the top holds. | V2 | ||||||
19 |
★★★ Greyline
Follow black seam 3m L of Yellow Edge. Good wires at half height which protects the hard move to jugs. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 23 | 9m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
★★ Throwback
Good gear and crimps up the yellow seam left of Yellow Edge. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 25 | 7m | |||||
21 |
★★ Yellow Edge
ok gear but pumpy to place. Up arete and thin crack, step right at top to jugs (as for Zilla). Old top rope route. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 21 | 9m | |||||
22 |
★★ Zilla
Start 2m R of the arete. Crux by gear then runout finish up seam. . PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 23 | 9m | |||||
23 |
★★★ Resting Slob Face
Start below seam in middle of wall 2m R of Zilla. Great hidden wires in seam, out left a move and up. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 23 | ||||||
24 |
★★ Old Salty
Start 5m R of Zilla. Up wall left of arete of gully, good sling at top. A thin move as you leave the gear. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 21 | 9m | |||||
25 |
★★ Wilshire
Start behind Freestanding block on right side of gully at Orange wall. Up past glued up hold | V3 | 7m | |||||
26 |
★ SSCC11
In gully behind the freestanding Block, easy crack on right, about 7m right of Wilshire. An old scout's route (Named after SSCC1 at Piddo), first recorded lead. Good gear. PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 15 | 9m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
27 |
★ SSCC12
Arete right of SSCC11. An old Scout's top rope route. A bit runout at top to small spike runner. First recorded lead. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 17 | 9m | |||||
28 |
★ Little Ridge
Tiny wall left of gully, about 3m R of SSCC11. Good protection, sling at top PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 15 | 6m | |||||
29 |
★ TicTacToe
Start at left side of black wall some 15m R of the Freestanding Block. Straight up, some gear at the top when it gets easy PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 19 | ||||||
30 |
★★ Jeff's Traverse
Start as for TicTacToe and follow break right for 3m and up seam. Good pro. PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 18 | 10m | |||||
31 |
★ Airtime
Runout and easy. start in little corner at right end of Jeff's traverse wall PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 20 | 9m | |||||
32 |
★★ BlitzJasonKreig
Punchy finish above good gear. Climb wall 3m L of Zimmer Crack PA: Jason Budden, 2017 | 21 | 9m | |||||
33 |
★ Zimmer crack
About 15m R of TicTacToe wall. Up corner and layback roof (big cam). Good gear. PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 16 | 9m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
34 |
★★ Son of Jeff's Traverse
Start just right of Zimmer crack and follow good break right and around the arete to finish up Thong Ridge. Good protection. PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 14 | 13m | |||||
35 |
Layer cake
Start middle of wall and up over bulge, then up small cliffline behind. Good gear. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 16 | 15m | |||||
36 |
★ Step up
Start at blank section just left of the arete. Up to good break and onwards. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 18 | 10m | |||||
37 |
★★ Thong ridge
Up curved slab on right end of wall, lots of gear. A good route to learn trad gear on. PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 11 | 10m | |||||
38 |
★★★ Elebellyphant
Rounded elephant belly arete 4m R of Thong Ridge and 4m left of fridge Block. Good gear at 40% and at the top. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 24 | ||||||
39 |
★ Obi-Wan Camnobi
Wide crack on LHS of gully left of Fridge left Side. Good gear. PA: Drew Ivison, Ag 2017 | 16 | 9m | |||||
40 |
gully slab
RHS of gully. Unprotectable easy climbing with technical finish. PA: Patrick Burr, Ag 2017 | 16 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
41 |
★ Fridge left side
Easy but run out on the easy finishing moves. Climb the easy left arete of the fridge block, with a good thread at half height PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 19 | 8m | |||||
42 |
Do you even lift?
two big undercling moves and good pro. Start 2m R of arete, up to break, step R to hidden underclings and up leftwards PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 22 | 10m | |||||
43 |
★★ VanGough
Start in middle of wall (white square) below thin seam. Up, small wires protect a hard move then easy to top. Good gear. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 23 | 10m | |||||
44 |
★★★ Vincent
Start in middle of the Fridge block, about 1 m right of white square, up to twin cracks and up finishing crack. Pumpy to place pro. Good gear. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 20 | 10m | |||||
45 |
★★ Vasarri
Pumpy Arapiles classic with good wires. Start and up to seam 1m R of Vincent. Good gear. PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 19 | 10m | |||||
46 |
★★ Casting Couch
Start up Vasarri then traverse 2m R along lip and up line. Pumpy with good gear. PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 20 | 12m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
47 |
★★★ Groundswell / Groundswell traverse
2 M L of Nothing new under the sun (right arete) and the gully. Good gear out left at half height, the right and up. originally traversed left at top .Go straight up over final wall to poor laybacks. Good gear. Pumpy. Best with double ropes as gear is out right and left PA: Michael Law, 2017 PA: Michael Law, 2017 | 23 | 10m | |||||
48 |
★★ Nothing new under the sun
RHS of the cave, arete facing Ariel Grime. Good pro until the top. PA: Lachlan, Ag 2017 | 16 | 10m | |||||
49 |
★★ Ariel Grime
Lovely left arete of Green Camalot Wall (take 4!). Start on right, I used double ropes so I could clip cams on each side in top break. Many medium sized cams used. PA: Mikl Law, 2017 | 20 | 10m | |||||
50 |
★★ Ryan's Leap
Up wall about 3m R of the arete (Ariel Grime) past 2 good breaks to a good jug to sling at the top. PA: Ian Ryan, 2017 | 22 | 10m | |||||
51 |
★★★ LivingStone
Lovely climbing. Up wall 4 m R of Ariel Grime past ramp. Don't fill the crucial hold with cams. There is a small cam and good sling out left to protect topout. PA: mikl, 2017 | 21 | 8m | |||||
52 |
★★ Pendragon / Uthers deceit
Start on right side of Green Camalot Wall, a meter right of LivingStone. Move left at the top to mantel. Good gear in break and average gear at top (sling, wires cam). PA: Patrick Burr, Ag 2017 | 18 | 9m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
53 |
Patrick's Proj – OPEN
Right of green camelot wall. Middle line at the end of the brake traverse. | |||||||
54 |
★ SerendipitHole
Around the corner from the blank wall. Face climbing between arete (nice project?) and worthless crack. PA: Patrick Burr, Ag 2017 | 16 | ||||||
55 |
★ Lil tigre
Hand crack int he corner right of the tree. Top out right or far left. PA: Drew Ivison, Ag 2017 | 17 |