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Yates Yard Guide

  • Contexto de grado: AU
  • Ascensiones: 147
  • Aka: YY

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Sam Fisher Upton Tom Bes Lachlan S Kosta Prekos Matthew Ritchie Jess Morton Sam Louie Alexander Lopes Timothy Brunette

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Yates Yard 26 routes in Boulder

Summary:
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Estacionalidad

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -34.013135, 151.042302

descripción

Bit of fun for everyone. Lots of variety from big slabby walls to overhanging boulders. Faces west and gets plenty of light for great arvo climbs. Mostly beginner to intermediate climbs, but definitely potential for more advanced routes

restricciones

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

heredado de Sutherland

Acceso

Park at the northern most point of Yates Road at the trail head for Illaroo Bluff. Veer left down BMX trail for 100m until obvious left turn off. Follow for 30-50m until at cliff face. Approach down slope to the right where Main Slab Wall is found.

Historia

Just off a trail from popular lookout, so likely climbed before but no history found.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snowflakes

Sit start in scoop. Up to the right via flakey crimps.

Equip: Sam Fisher

V4 Búlder 4m
2 Snowflakes Assist

Same as Snowflakes but left hand in crack for assistance.

Equip: Sam Fisher

V2 Búlder 4m
3 Uranus

Sit start in scoop. Climb up through the large crack, top out via left hand arete

PA: Sam Fisher

Equip: Sam Fisher

V0 Búlder 4m
4 Up In Arms

Hands matched in crimp just below the edge. Once set, move up to crimpy ledge, right hand up gaston into large scoop. High feet and top out.

PA: Sam Fisher

Equip: Sam Fisher

V1 Búlder 2m
5 Low Traverse

Start far left of Small Slab wall. Up arete and traverse right. Finish as per Up In Arms

Equip: Sam Fisher

V2 Búlder 3m
6 Clean Slate

Same start as per Low Traverse. Once on crimpy edge, top out with a high foot.

PA: Sam Fisher

Equip: Sam Fisher

V1 Búlder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Smear Out

Up and left behind the clean slate boulder is a nice slab. Start on foothold low right of block. Smear delicately up and left using some nubs and a nice pinch. topout middle of block

PA: Tom Bes, 2023

V1 Búlder
8 The Unbeatable High

On the LED block. Start just round the corner on low right holds of arete (as in picture). move up and cross the wall at its mid point enjoying all the holds of the other climbs. top out left arete. down climb tree is recommended.

PA: Tom Bes, 30 Sep 2023

V0 Búlder
9 Chute Up

head up the chute of tufas in between the arete and Big Palmer face

PA: Tom Bes, 2023

V0 Búlder
10 Big Palmer

Sit start with L hand in beautiful side pull just R of Pristine Slab holds. Palm down low with right and move up the middle face

PA: Tom Bes, 2023

V0+ Búlder
11 Pristine Slab

Great easy boulder on lovely holds. Sit start on low jug and move up series of nice large holds.

V0 Búlder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Around the Bloc

Standing start at Not All It's Cracked Up to Be. Traverse to the left and continue traversing anti-clockwise around the whole boulder.

Equip: Sam Fisher

PA: Sam Fisher

V2 Búlder
13 LED

Start on low jug and straight up ↑

Equip: Kosta Prekos

V1 Búlder 3m
14 Why not use the arete

Start where 'LED' is and then move right to a big reach then, up the arete to top out. If you want you could start from 'Not all it's cracked up to be' and have some more crimps, probably for a v2.

PA: Upton

V1 Búlder 4m
15 Not All It's Cracked Up to Be / NAICUB

Sit start on arete, up crimps and into the crack. Optional top out, can be a tricky downclimb.

PA: Sam Fisher

Equip: Sam Fisher

V2 Búlder 3m
16 Good Time Climb

PA: Sam Fisher

Equip: Sam Fisher

V0 Búlder 4m
17 Fist Bumps

Sit start. LH in pocket on light smear. RH thumb in pocket. Pull up to RH crimp then traverse along to the left. Top out before going around the corner.

PA: Sam Fisher

Equip: Sam Fisher

V4 Búlder
18 Pocket Problem

Sit start, Hands start in obvious pockets. Straight up.

Equip: Sam Fisher

V5 Búlder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 Chicken Wings

Sit start, hands matched on reddish crimp. Move right to good holds and then back to the left to top out

PA: Sam Fisher

Equip: Sam Fisher

V2 Búlder 4m
20 Out on A Limb

Start as per Chicken Wings. Big move straight up to nice edge. Come around edge and mantle to top out.

Equip: Sam Fisher

V1 Búlder
21 Laid Back

Low fun. Sit start as per Chicken Wings, stay low and move to the far right.

Equip: Sam Fisher

V3 Búlder
22 Louie on the low road

Start two hands-on jug at the corner with right foot on low smear. Move up nice lip to connect with 'Chicken Wings'. Can also extend to finish at 'Laid Back'

PA: Sam Louie

V2 Búlder 4m
23 Upton on the high road

Start the same as 'Louie on the low road' and take the high road to the end using the rounded slopey top to mantle.

PA: Upton

V1 Búlder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 Shark Bait Ooh Ha Ha

Sit start on right corner of boulder. Move left into big scoop. Straight up to top out

Equip: Sam Fisher

V6 Búlder
25 Like a stegosaurus's back

Behind 'LED' and 'It's not all it's cracked up to be' boulder. High tufa boulder. Start with right-hand undercling low to the right and left hand on pinch. Feet low. Go up until your left hand is in the dark abyss hole and then mantle to the left.

PA: Upton

V1 Búlder 4m
26 Love some Bangor rock

Start in same as 'Like a stegosaurus's back' and move up right to top out. Tree makes it hard for nice fall.

PA: Upton

V1 Búlder 4m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V0 Chute Up Búlder
Good Time Climb Búlder 4m
Pristine Slab Búlder
The Unbeatable High Búlder
Uranus Búlder 4m
V0+ Big Palmer Búlder
V1 Clean Slate Búlder 2m
LED Búlder 3m
Like a stegosaurus's back Búlder 4m
Love some Bangor rock Búlder 4m
Out on A Limb Búlder
Smear Out Búlder
Up In Arms Búlder 2m
Upton on the high road Búlder 3m
Why not use the arete Búlder 4m
V2 Around the Bloc Búlder
Chicken Wings Búlder 4m
Louie on the low road Búlder 4m
Low Traverse Búlder 3m
Not All It's Cracked Up to Be Búlder 3m
Snowflakes Assist Búlder 4m
V3 Laid Back Búlder
V4 Fist Bumps Búlder
Snowflakes Búlder 4m
V5 Pocket Problem Búlder 4m
V6 Shark Bait Ooh Ha Ha Búlder
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