A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Sam Fisher Upton Tom Bes Lachlan S Kosta Prekos Matthew Ritchie Jess Morton Sam Louie Alexander Lopes Timothy Brunette
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Yates Yard / YY 26 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Yates Yard 26 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
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Todo Búlder
Lat / Long: -34.013135, 151.042302
descripción
Bit of fun for everyone. Lots of variety from big slabby walls to overhanging boulders. Faces west and gets plenty of light for great arvo climbs. Mostly beginner to intermediate climbs, but definitely potential for more advanced routes
restricciones
For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing
Acceso
Park at the northern most point of Yates Road at the trail head for Illaroo Bluff. Veer left down BMX trail for 100m until obvious left turn off. Follow for 30-50m until at cliff face. Approach down slope to the right where Main Slab Wall is found.
Historia
Just off a trail from popular lookout, so likely climbed before but no history found.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Snowflakes
Sit start in scoop. Up to the right via flakey crimps. Equip: Sam Fisher | V4 | 4m | |||||
2 |
Snowflakes Assist
Same as Snowflakes but left hand in crack for assistance. Equip: Sam Fisher | V2 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★ Uranus
Sit start in scoop. Climb up through the large crack, top out via left hand arete PA: Sam Fisher Equip: Sam Fisher | V0 | 4m | |||||
4 |
★ Up In Arms
Hands matched in crimp just below the edge. Once set, move up to crimpy ledge, right hand up gaston into large scoop. High feet and top out. PA: Sam Fisher Equip: Sam Fisher | V1 | 2m | |||||
5 |
★★ Low Traverse
Start far left of Small Slab wall. Up arete and traverse right. Finish as per Up In Arms Equip: Sam Fisher | V2 | 3m | |||||
6 |
Clean Slate
Same start as per Low Traverse. Once on crimpy edge, top out with a high foot. PA: Sam Fisher Equip: Sam Fisher | V1 | 2m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Smear Out
Up and left behind the clean slate boulder is a nice slab. Start on foothold low right of block. Smear delicately up and left using some nubs and a nice pinch. topout middle of block PA: Tom Bes, 2023 | V1 | ||||||
8 |
★ The Unbeatable High
On the LED block. Start just round the corner on low right holds of arete (as in picture). move up and cross the wall at its mid point enjoying all the holds of the other climbs. top out left arete. down climb tree is recommended. PA: Tom Bes, 30 Sep 2023 | V0 | ||||||
9 |
★ Chute Up
head up the chute of tufas in between the arete and Big Palmer face PA: Tom Bes, 2023 | V0 | ||||||
10 |
Big Palmer
Sit start with L hand in beautiful side pull just R of Pristine Slab holds. Palm down low with right and move up the middle face PA: Tom Bes, 2023 | V0+ | ||||||
11 |
★ Pristine Slab
Great easy boulder on lovely holds. Sit start on low jug and move up series of nice large holds. | V0 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ Around the Bloc
Standing start at Not All It's Cracked Up to Be. Traverse to the left and continue traversing anti-clockwise around the whole boulder. Equip: Sam Fisher PA: Sam Fisher | V2 | ||||||
13 |
★ LED
Start on low jug and straight up ↑ Equip: Kosta Prekos | V1 | 3m | |||||
14 |
★ Why not use the arete
Start where 'LED' is and then move right to a big reach then, up the arete to top out. If you want you could start from 'Not all it's cracked up to be' and have some more crimps, probably for a v2. PA: Upton | V1 | 4m | |||||
15 |
★ Not All It's Cracked Up to Be / NAICUB
Sit start on arete, up crimps and into the crack. Optional top out, can be a tricky downclimb. PA: Sam Fisher Equip: Sam Fisher | V2 | 3m | |||||
16 |
Good Time Climb
PA: Sam Fisher Equip: Sam Fisher | V0 | 4m | |||||
17 |
★★ Fist Bumps
Sit start. LH in pocket on light smear. RH thumb in pocket. Pull up to RH crimp then traverse along to the left. Top out before going around the corner. PA: Sam Fisher Equip: Sam Fisher | V4 | ||||||
18 |
★★ Pocket Problem
Sit start, Hands start in obvious pockets. Straight up. Equip: Sam Fisher | V5 | 4m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 |
★ Chicken Wings
Sit start, hands matched on reddish crimp. Move right to good holds and then back to the left to top out PA: Sam Fisher Equip: Sam Fisher | V2 | 4m | |||||
20 |
Out on A Limb
Start as per Chicken Wings. Big move straight up to nice edge. Come around edge and mantle to top out. Equip: Sam Fisher | V1 | ||||||
21 |
Laid Back
Low fun. Sit start as per Chicken Wings, stay low and move to the far right. Equip: Sam Fisher | V3 | ||||||
22 |
★★ Louie on the low road
Start two hands-on jug at the corner with right foot on low smear. Move up nice lip to connect with 'Chicken Wings'. Can also extend to finish at 'Laid Back' PA: Sam Louie | V2 | 4m | |||||
23 |
★★ Upton on the high road
Start the same as 'Louie on the low road' and take the high road to the end using the rounded slopey top to mantle. PA: Upton | V1 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
24 |
Shark Bait Ooh Ha Ha
Sit start on right corner of boulder. Move left into big scoop. Straight up to top out Equip: Sam Fisher | V6 | ||||||
25 |
Like a stegosaurus's back
Behind 'LED' and 'It's not all it's cracked up to be' boulder. High tufa boulder. Start with right-hand undercling low to the right and left hand on pinch. Feet low. Go up until your left hand is in the dark abyss hole and then mantle to the left. PA: Upton | V1 | 4m | |||||
26 |
Love some Bangor rock
Start in same as 'Like a stegosaurus's back' and move up right to top out. Tree makes it hard for nice fall. PA: Upton | V1 | 4m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
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V0 | ★ | Chute Up | |||
Good Time Climb | 4m | ||||
★ | Pristine Slab | ||||
★ | The Unbeatable High | ||||
★ | Uranus | 4m | |||
V0+ | Big Palmer | ||||
V1 | Clean Slate | 2m | |||
★ | LED | 3m | |||
Like a stegosaurus's back | 4m | ||||
Love some Bangor rock | 4m | ||||
Out on A Limb | |||||
★ | Smear Out | ||||
★ | Up In Arms | 2m | |||
★★ | Upton on the high road | 3m | |||
★ | Why not use the arete | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ | Around the Bloc | |||
★ | Chicken Wings | 4m | |||
★★ | Louie on the low road | 4m | |||
★★ | Low Traverse | 3m | |||
★ | Not All It's Cracked Up to Be | 3m | |||
Snowflakes Assist | 4m | ||||
V3 | Laid Back | ||||
V4 | ★★ | Fist Bumps | |||
Snowflakes | 4m | ||||
V5 | ★★ | Pocket Problem | 4m | ||
V6 | Shark Bait Ooh Ha Ha |