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Restricciones heredado de South Sentinel

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

Ética heredado de Frederick Peak

A healthy mix of trad and sport.

Etiquetas

Vías

Añadir vía(s) Añadir croquis Reordenar Edición en bloque Convertir grados
Grado Vía

Starts 10m uphill of AF at a white streak. Head straight up for 5m to first pro in horizontal break, then head right and up onto slab. Follow slab back left and up past FH (crux). Now climb up and right to the belay chains of AF.

PA: Nathan Bolton / Mark Gommers, 2005

1 17 45m
2 11 35m
3 12 15m
4 16 25m

Starts where the western track meets the rock on the vague north-eastern corner of the South Sentinel.

  1. Up from initialled corner to large scoop and gear. Move R out of scoop and continue up the crack. Move L past 1 FH to a small horn and another FH. Gain the corner crack and follow the ledges to vegetated belay ledge and chains.

  2. Up and L from the belay through vegetation to gain the large detached rib. Pass optional rivet on the main wall (requires 1 bracket) and follow rib to ledge with prominent crack. Up to gain large ledge with tree.

  3. Up steep scooped wall to sloping ledge and traverse L to single FH (back up with gear).

  4. Obvious crack above belay then easy corner to summit.

PAL: Mark Gommers & Nathan Walmsley (alt leads) 16/02/2003. 1st pitch FFA Mark Gommers, 2003

Starts about 8m R of AF at a vague grey line. Up the ramp (loose blocks on the L) and continue up for about 20m. Then up R of an orange scoop and traverse L above to reach orange rock and corner. Up corner to vegetated belay ledge and chains.

PAL: Mark Gommers, Jason Mudge & Chris Noon, 2003

Start at the first belay of AF, follow the obvious crack on the right to ledge and continue up, traversing right to join up with pitch 4 of Pitch Black.

PA: Mark Gommers, 2003

Starting 5m L of the of AF pitch 4. Pass 4 FHs up the pocketed wall to reach crack at top. Natural Belay.

PA: Nathan Bolton / Mark Gommers

Starts about 3m R of the cave. Follow L facing corner weakness to summit area.

PAL: Mark Gommers, Andrew Rule & Nathan Walmsley, 2003

Starts 8m R of the cave. Climb up short corner to slabby buttress.

PAL: Mark Gommers 2003? & Mark Gommers, 2003

1 13 28m
2 15 28m
  1. (28m 13) 10m R of AF. Up black slab on U bolts to fun finish and ledge.

  2. (28m 15) Up past 2 U bolts to corner. Traverse R over slab to steep headwall. Up this to natural belay. Escape as for PB.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Head L up ramp to corner. Up and over buldge (awkward) to interesting crimpy finish.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Straight up from NE belay. Enjoyable climbing on pocketed orange rock. Traverse slightly L at end to jug.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Far RH line off the ledge. Sustained jug haul on overhung orange rock.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury/Chris Beric, 2013

The direct start to PB. Starts 15m R of the original start. Up the black slab to ledge and up steep blocky corner on thin gear. Pull over onto easier ground and follow the RH facing corner to a short headwall to PB 2nd pitch belay chains.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2012

Follows the steep crack directly above to chains.

PAL: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 2004

Starts from the large ledge on Pitch Black (the end of the 4th pitch). Up the short steep section a few metres left of pitch 5 of PB then follow ledges left until you reach the ledge with tree in the middle of the third pitch of Absent Friends.

PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2006

1 13 35m
2 15 12m
3 15 37m
4 3 30m
5 9 45m
6 14 43m

About 8m R of Absent Friends is a low blocky ledge and a not-so-obvious weakness. An excellent climb with great rock and exposure, a little run-out with tricky gear in places. Escape is possible from chains at the end of pitch 2 & 4.

  1. 13 35m Follow weakness on good rock until you reach a ledge with a single FH.

  2. 15 12m Trend up right to below large death block – don't touch it! Place gear and begin the exposed juggy traverse around arête to small ledge and chains.

  3. 15 37m Go up from belay, trend left below overlap and follow left facing ramp for a few metres until a small ledge with loose blocks above. Head out right past a tricky crux section on sketchy gear and pull through a final steep section to reach a large sloping ledge and cave (DBB).

  4. 3 30m Scramble up left under cave and up loose gully or the wall on your right. Continue until you reach a chain belay and large tree directly above previous belay. Escape is possible here via chains.

  5. 9 45m Continue through steep section and small V groove (little gear) to reach a ledge. Or alternatively start left at the featured corner. Continue up well featured rock to belay ledge below final headwall.

  6. 14 43m Trend up and slightly right through the steep section before moving R past 1m high horn. Now move up heavily featured section to summit.

PAL: Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers (alt) & Chris Noon, 2003

Set the belay further L of the original below two obvious corners. Up the R corner and onto ledge then trend R and easily up to top.

PAL: Mark Gommers, 2004

Climb up past the first 4 bolts of SC then traverse left 2m. Move straight up through the diagonal rooflet rails.

PA: Gareth Llewellin & Chris Beric, 2012

VF to SC. Instead of trending R to corner/arete, blast straight up through brilliant steep orange rock to finish at FEOS anchor.

PAL: Steve Ioannou, Chris Glastonbury & Chris Beric, 2013

Great climbing starting on the first three bolts of TLM pitch 1. Straight up the slab through immaculate orange rock trending right on ledge. Step out left from the sanctuary corner for exposed finish at FEOS anchor. Lower off these anchors or continue to p2 anchor of TLM.

PA: Chris Beric, Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2012

1 13 12m
2 19 25m
3 20 27m
4 15 12m

One of the mega classic multi-pitches at Frederick Peak bolted by the three monkeys themselves.

  1. 12m 13 Trend right on 'Gringo Nomad' slab to the right of the orange streak.

  2. 25m 19 Technical & fingery crack into corner.

  3. 27m 20 Up the arête then traverse 3m right to anchor on uber cave ledge.

  4. 12m 15 Up jugs and then left around steep arête.

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