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The Land Before Time

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Restricciones heredado de South Sentinel

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

Ética heredado de Frederick Peak

A healthy mix of trad and sport.

Etiquetas

Vías

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Grado Vía

The white slab and flake about 10m R of where the track from the car park hits the South Sentinel. The lower off is the same anchors as for Three Lost Monkeys (North Face).

PAL: Dave Ware & Matt Brooks, 27 Mayo 2018

The thin balance black slab 2m R of TAP. Finish at the same anchors as for TAP.

PAL: Matt Brooks & Dave Ware, 27 Mayo 2018

1 18 20m
2 21 18m
3 16 17m
4 21 22m
5 12 25m
6 12 50m

Starts 7m right of TLM.

  1. 20m 18 Head up the black slab through the crux passing 3 FHs. Place gear before mantling on small ledge. Trend up and slightly right and continue about 4m left across ledge to base of 'V' corner and go up. Head right to small ledge with a natural belay.

  2. 18m 21 Go straight up the steep yellow corner for 2m and traverse right above the overlap. Continue up right until you reach a ledge and FH. Up the thin slab through the crux with 2 more FHs and then into cave with rings. Escape via a 35m rap to the ground.

  3. 17m 16 Head right out of cave (FH) and up past fin onto a ledge. Move back left and up onto slab then diagonally right to orange wall. Up this for 5m then traverse left to belay about 3m below a large spike.

  4. 22m 21 Head left from belay along ledge then up short corner to large sloping ledge. Avoid the loose blocks while traversing right along ledge and lean out to clip FH. Up exposed corner (crux) then right onto ledge. Follow the heavily featured wall to ledge with bollard and tree - this is the PB pitch 4 belay. Walk behind the tree for 5m until you meet the rock again. Escape is possible via PB.

  5. 25m 12 Up right to ledge and traverse 8m right. Continue straight up to ledge with orange thread. Take care with the loose blocks on traverse.

  6. 50m 12 Up the easy slab for 25m to reach a ledge below an orange roof. Move up cracks to the right of the roof and then move back left onto slab. Up the slab then finish straight up steep final wall.

PAL: Steve Ioannou (1 & Chris Glastonbury (2, 2006

Starting 3m right of KT. Great climbing that's harder, steeper and better than it looks. A really good first 2/3 with a tricky crimpy crux down low and exquisite layback moves through the middle.

PA: Chris Beric, Steve Ioannou & Christopher Glastonbury, 2012

Starting at the gently overhanging orange streak 10m R of KT. Bouldery climbing.

PA: Steve Ioannou, 2012

Bridge past slime to get established on jugs then move L past hard crux. Add a grade if your under 6ft.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury/Chris Beric, 2013

Shares the first bolt of Steeling Time then trends left and up through a bouldery roof section.

PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Beric, 2012

Start up the prominent rib feature to a powerful crux at the third bolt. Now cruise up the jugs to the orange streak, watch out for the tricky last move.

Originally finished right to "Out On a Limb" chains and titled "Slack Time".

PA: Steve Ioannou & Chris Beric, 2012

Start as per "Steeling Time" and finish right to "Out On a Limb" chains.

First 3 bolts of OOAL then traverse L on roof lip. Power up heinous crimps to glory jugs above.

PAL: Chris Beric, 2013

Starts 4m right of "Steeling Time" with rusty, coral featured jug. Clip the first bolt with an extended draw or full-length sling. Trend right to suspended block, then straight up. A short but fun climb packed with good moves, a pumpy start and then a technical finish.

PA: Nathan Bolton & Mark Gommers, 2005

Start 2m R of OOAL. Up for 2 bolts to link into OOAL at 4th bolt.

Equip: Chris Beric

PAL: Chris Beric & Kat Damjanovic, 5 Jul 2017

Start 2m L of BSS and join it at the lip.

Equip: Chris Beric

PAL: Chris Beric & Kat Damjanovic, 5 Jul 2017

Starts 4m R of OoaL. From the words "on belay.. climbing" immediately kick into overdrive for tricky overhung boulder problem. Dyno to the glorious jug on the lip if you dare! Now that you're warmed up, blast your way through enjoyable and sustained jug haul to DRB. Remember to clip the 8 bolts along the way.

Special beta: Fire is found to be highly effective in combating scum, spadge and water.

PAL:

PA: Chris Beric, 2010

PAL: Chris Beric & Jarrah, 18 Nov 2017

PAL: Chris Beric & Jarrah, 18 Nov 2017

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