Vías en Victoria para grado seleccionado

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.

Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack' to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete. The RH Variant goes up the crack on the arete at grade 18.

Start: 1m right of 'CC'.

In the same vein as Je Suis Un Legend, links all the easiest bits of the existing routes to create a conceptual megaclassic. Unfortunately the climbing is only one star.

Start up Oogie Boogie, go diagonally right to join the top of Asteroids and finish up it. Up the slab (a touch runout) and right up the corner to finish. Its possible to keep traversing from the final corner/groove to the chains of Hyperspace Bypass (below top of cliff).

The crack.

Start beneath the R side of the front face.

People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though. The crack 3m R of 'Christian Crack'.

The weakness up the thin face.

Start: Start 6m R of BT.

Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague

arete to top.

Start: Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake.

Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney.

The crack.

Start: Start R of CLCP2.

Boulder into R-tending flake and up it to jugs.

Start: Start 4m L of BL.

Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first.

Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge.

Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first.

Start: Start as for IaLD.

Another awesomely steep line.

Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp.

Worth doing for the history. This climb came into existence while Kim Carrigan was attempting the first ascent of what would become Lord Of The Rings. When Kim announced that he was intending to call the climb 'Serious Young Lizards' a piece of extremely obscure rock was promptly found, climbed and given that name.

This climb is just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth doing for the shade. After scrambling up the chimney just R of 'Purple Denotes Bruising', but before getting to 'Catcher', head up chimney/gully on the R to a yellow groove on the L wall.

The arete, on the R at first then on the L, with suss rock.

Start: Start R of EE.

The next line of holds up the face.

Start: Start 1.5m R of DF.

Climb the face left of 'Tendrils' to a short black flake and up.

Start: start left of 'Tendrils'

Start: Climb up just left of the nose of 'Baby Buttress'.

Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.

Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.

1. 30m (18) Up the crack to ledge then jam the slick crack and left through the roof to next ledge and then belay at ledge.

2. 10m (18) 'Steep' jamming to roof then headwall.

Superman is lurking!

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Pilot Error' Ledge, R of the caves.

This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.

Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.

1. 22m (18) Straight up past 5 bolts, then follow the slight ramp up R (cams needed) to a lower-off where the arete meets the roof. The LHV (19) instead goes diagonally leftwards through the white rock to escape off left of the rooves.

2. 20m (18) Not as good as pitch 1 and rarely done these days. Up steep wall on the R for 7m then L to arete and up.

Mostly not new climbing, but its another great outing on this great buttress. Much of the climb may have been climbed on the first ascent of Fail Safe.

1. 28m (17) Up Iphigenia past first steep section to rest, go 3m L to flake in the middle of the wall and up this past overhang to small ledge.

2. 12m (18) Step right, up corner, then up line. Watch the rock.

What's in a name?

Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.

Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.

Walk up the gully R of the Atridae then back over the top to find a gully behind the Atridae. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.

Up the slick crack, traversing left to join Steel Delinquency. Probably not a good route to choose if your seconder can't jamb, because they'll likely hit the ledge if they come off at the start.

Start: Start beneath the white L-arching crack.

Flake then short wall.

Start: Start in middle of wall.

Start in corner left of 2nd pitch of Viagra. Up crack for 5m, traverse right and up to bolt. up past bolt with 2nd bolt on way to top.

A good effort for the era. Start just above the "first hole" as you walk up 'Organ Pipes Gully'. The initialled black, flared offwidth/chimney - you'll be needing big cams.

Start at the top end of the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, opposite Lemmington. The thin crack over low overlap then R-facing flake to chains.

Good line up right side of D Minor Pinnacle. Start below bulging crack on arete right of D Minor.

1. 16m (16) Climb line past bulge.

2. 14m (18) Traverse right along the big break and take the crack up the middle of the wall. Two bulges at the top provide the excitement.

It is possible to do a harder finish to Dirge by heading left before you get to the chains, traversing across the blank wall to join the final flake system of F Sharp.

A good solution to this buttress spotted by Jen Woods, going up to and left through the overhang. The route ties together bits of four other climbs, Humouresque, Bass Clef, Bag Pipes and Low Note, into something that is much better than any of the others. Start where you would scramble up to Dirge but stay at ground level.

Go straight up as per Humouresque to the base of a chimney (Bass Clef), then follow Bag Pipes up the arete between the chimney and the smooth face to the left. After Bag Pipes heads rightwards, continue straight up as the climbing gets harder towards the overhang (small wires). Go diagonally left through roof, bolt at lip, and finish as for Low Note.

Contrived. As for Overachiever, but from the crack, move out left under the roof to a small foot ledge, then haul up through the roof. Roof is poorly protected, so protection up high in the initial crack is advisable, and it may be possible the get a high cam placement before committing to the roof moves.

Good.

Start: Line on arete.

A good warmup romp for the harder stuff here. Up Brick Dust to the base of its chimney. Step down R (unlikely) and make a few balancy moves across and up into Squeakeasy. Continue up Squeakeasy to its anchor.

A really good route, one of the most pleasant 18s at Arapiles. Start 3m R of Jason. Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and up thin line.

An "adds nothing" R to L girdle best not written up in the first place. See notes for details.

The wide crack just R of the arete. A better jamming testpiece than The Rack. There's good gear but beware that cams have a habit of skating out of the polished rock so avoid flaring or merely parallel placements.

Short line. Start 3m L of TSSO.

Follow the chalk. Be sure to sew it up - there's not much room for error on routes this short! The main chalked crack line on this wall.

The block and seam. Start 1m R of TSSO.

Its just a step to the left - then a jump to the right. Pelvic thrust up to top! Starts right of Bunyip and about 2m left of broken corner, sort of behind tree.

The bottomless crack.

Start: Start R of WoT.

Dyno, then the wall.

Start: Start R of CV.

The rooflet.

Start: Start just L of the arete, R of PS.

Head diagonally L to join the bottomless corner on the arete.

Start: Start R of D.

The awkward offwidth (is there any other sort?)

Start: Start on the L side of the next buttress R of WD.

The diagonal crack then the face.

Start: Start on the front of the nose between HW and J.

More wide crack thrashery.

“ What an absolute gem. Beautiful variety of cracks with an easy finish. Would 100% recommend.”

Start: Start under the R-facing dark wide crack on the R side of the HW buttress.

The chalked-up orange crack 10m R of Jackal.

Start: Start 1m R of THE.

A generous envisioning of a route. Presumably start behind the tree and maintain serious blinkers to climb anything resembling 18.

Start: 2m R of 'Yelping Pup'.

Up H then trickily R into corner/crack.

Start: Start as for H.

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R edge of the wall.

Start 2m R of Droop Street. Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall.

At last - some truth in advertising! Start right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing Central Gully. Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top.

Start off the top of the detached pillar. Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up.

Line left of Greenfingers past two bolts plus gear to anchor.

Start right of Eat Your Greens at the dark grey section of slab. Up boldly to first gear at 6m. Continue up wall 1m left of Pet Parsley until the two routes merge for lower angled finish. 30m lower off.

Up tiny ramps to bolt left of WMT. Up to bottomless crack in pod and to ledge on WMT. Step left and up wall. There are good small wires between bolt and pod if you look around.

Down from Misunderestimated are 2 lines up a short grey bulging wall. Up the right line, climb over or around a large detached block depending on how mad you are feeling to a grey seam leading to ledge under orange roof. Lower off. Watch rope if using 50m.

On the small pillar in front of Reaper there's a wall facing the same direction as Reaper Wall. The steep crack on the L side of the buttress. Surprisingly better than it looks, although it does look bloody awful.

Start 5m R of Red Parrot Chasm on the juggy water-washed slab. Climb the white streak to a two bolt lower-off.

Start at the line between Stalagmite and Preludes. The crack to break, then tiny R-facing corner past a bolt. Continue past R side of prominent nose and up the buttress to ledge. Finish past a bolt through the pumpy overhang.

Start around corner from 'Frankenstein'. Up wall on left through steep bulge.

Not bad.

Up the crack on the east face (the one that looks towards camp), then the SE arete (the one which looks towards the Organ Pipes).

start 5m left of sandpiper (2m right of Top Cat). Climb rightward up slab to corner (left of prominent nose). Follow diagonal line, crossing Sandpiper. Continue rightwards to steep overlaps (crux). Finish as for Arab pitch 1. Fun!

Up the steep jam-crack through the V-cleft lip, then nice flake/crack to small ledge. Step L and up short corner.

Start on the L side of the Oasis (which is 3-4 pitches up Dunes or Eskimo Nell).

The usual offering from these two! The ugly offwidth roof/corner on the L side of the boulder. Finish up EN pitch 5.

Start on the Oasis on the L side of the big boulder which Eskimo Nell pitch 4 crawls under.

Up the middle of the wall to short blank corner, then up and L and short crack. Start under the middle of the grubby wall.

A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top. Start above Trench Warfare, under a little wall which faces Dunes Buttress and is on the same level as the start of Thunder Crack (which is described under the Bluff Major section). Easiest access is to rap in after getting to the top either by scrambling up the wall opposite Missing Link or by walking in from the Bluff lookout car park.

A sweet slab. Has lower-offs.

The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove. Start just L of G.

The gear is good from the crack up, but below that...

Start: Start 5m L of Fang, just R of the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress'.

A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.

Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.

Up Mantis to roof, start traverse L as for Mandible, but halfway to arete blast straight up orange wall and through steepest part of juggy top bulge

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left and straight up.

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left. Veer right and up the face.

Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up.

Sit start at crimp, straight up and mantle to finish.

Up the seam.

On the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder. Climb the face just left of the easy crack. Contrived but somewhat fun.

Climb the high crack on the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder.

Individual pitch grades were not supplied - overall grade is 18 but some pitches may be easier.

Start: Start: As for 'Orpheus'.

1. 25m (18) Follow obvious and contrived line diagonally left, being careful not to step into gully.

2. 10m (18) Up hideous grovel on left end of 'Redd Tracy' ledge. Belay when possible.

3. 15m (18) Follow line up until it meets 'Directathal' and reverse first moves of this route to join Alis!

A fine old classic that has just about everything in its two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position.

On the E face of the Bard Buttress there's a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.

1. 33m (18) Up the crack to the niche past a very old BR, then head up and slightly R from the niche to a good ledge.

2. 32m (17) A tricky steep move gains the long R-facing corner. Near it's top move R then up to the Bard Terrace.

Ann Pauligk's mid 1970s ascent, first go, was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

The middle of the face, kinking R at one point.

Start: Start on the back of the boulder at the base of the 'Bard Buttress'.

Take a line just L of 'Eurydice' p2, with a steep flake down low then a loose wall above.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Eurydice'.

Move up then follow the underclings R across 'Orpheus' to join the upper part of p1 of TD.

Start: Start up L from the start of 'Orpheus'.

Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez). Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.

Start and finish as for Shalimar, but climb the R arete of the face (just L of Allez).

Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates Bluff Minor and Bluff Major. Climb the chimney/corner.

Start 2m R of I. The face, leading into I near the top.

A great adventure that you will savour for many years. There is a length of rope with a maillon on top (10/18) that you can very easily lower off, thus annulling the need for a seconder and ensuring that whoever has just witnessed your efforts has no excuse but to get on the sharp end!

Start: Start on the edge of the yawning void at the far right end of the ledge.

An extremely rare case of Kevin aborting a ground up trad route in order to resort to a bolt placed on rap. But then again he was probably about 12 at the time so we'll excuse him this time. Start as for ML. Pro requires care before the bolt.