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Central Area Guide

  • Contexto de grado: US
  • Ascensiones: 183

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

KieranNorth Jan Gosmann Johnathan Suderman leearmstrong10 Jim Clark L-P Kelly Patton Jordan Lambie @jwelch

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Central Area 53 routes in Area

Summary:
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Estacionalidad

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: 43.130605, -79.056493

descripción

Collection of boulders above wonderland above a short cliff

restricciones

To boulder at the Niagara Glen, a permit is required. Permits can be purchased at the Niagara Glen Nature Center (3050 Niagara Parkway) or at the Butterfly Conservatory (2565 Niagara Parkway). They cost $40 and require a signed waiver. Bouldering pemits also include an annual parking pass. Note that some boulders are currently closed due to environmental impact concerns. For more information on permits, trails and which boulders are open/closed see https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit-niagara-parks/nature-activities/bouldering/

heredado de Niagara Glen

Ética

Bouldering Rules:

  1. All Boulder's must sign and submit a completed waiver, pay the required fee and obtain a permit prior to bouldering. Boulder's must carry a permit with them while engaging in bouldering on NPC (Niagara Parks Commission).

  2. Permits are non-transferable

  3. Boulders must exercise all appropriate safety measures during bouldering must adhere to the principle of "your safety is your responsibility"

  4. Boulder's must recognize the risks inherent in their activities and ensure that they have the knowledge, skills and physical fitness to participate.

  5. Boulder's must be properly trained and equipped.

  6. Climbing safety and safety equipment is the responsibility of the participant.

  7. Boulder's must observe and obey Niagara Parks Act and Regulations, NPC policies and rules, and all fencing, barriers, and signs. Failure to comply may result in withholding or revocation of Permits.

  8. Activities are limited to boulders, trails and areas sanctioned by NPC.

  9. Bouldering is secondary to the protection of the boulders' geological, biological and cultural heritage. Boulder's must adhere to the "leave no trace" principle.

  10. Minors (under the age of majority in Ontario) participating in bouldering must be accompanied and supervised by a parent or legal guardian. Issuance of a Permit for participation by minors is subject to completion and submission of a waiver signed by the parent or legal guardian.

  11. Boulder's must not remove or disturb natural resources (e.g. vegetation, soil) or cultural resources from the boulders or any area surrounding the boulders. 12. Topping out is permitted only on those boulders explicitly approved for topping out by NPC.

  12. NPC has the authority to limit the number of Boulder's at specific boulders on NPC property, in its sole discretion. 14. Camping and fires are strictly prohibited on NPC property.

  13. Boulder's must report any violations of these Rules by Boulder's or non-boulder's to NPC for enforcement.

  14. Boulder's must keep dogs on leashes at all times while on NPC property and place all dog waste in garbage receptacles.

  15. The use of drugs or alcohol while on NPC property is prohibited.

  16. Boulder's must keep the peace when bouldering at the Niagara Glen. In order to reduce disturbances to others, yelling is to be kept to a minimum. Use of profane language is prohibited.

  17. NPC reserves the right to amend or cancel the Bouldering activities, or change the NPC Bouldering Rules, at any time without notice and in its sole discretion. leave no trace

  18. Hiking in the Niagara Glen is only permitted between the hours of sunrise and Sunset

heredado de Niagara Glen
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Danzig Boulder

2 Electric French Fries

Stand start on the left face of the Danzig boulder just right of the tree. Straight up to topout.

V2 Búlder
3 Electric French Fries Sit V6 Búlder
4 Felcher

Stand start on the left arête and ride it to the top out. Careful of the tree!

V3 Búlder
5 Tantric Shocker

Sit start on the left arête and climb into either [Felcher] or [Shocker] to finish.

V9 Búlder
6 Shocker

Stand start at the left of the face on a triangle crimp and the "shocker pocket". Climb through glassy slopers to top out.

V4 Búlder
7 Pothole

Start as for "No U-Turn" up to the V-shaped hold. Move out left on terrible slopers to a big move out left to a good edge. Big move up to an edge near the top. Look for a jug further up. Safest/easiest way to top-out is to scale the top of the wall right to top out as "No U-Turn"

V5 Búlder
8 No U-Turn

Stand start on the good edge, followed by your beta of choice to a pinch at the sharp V hold. Move up and right to jugs at the top. Top out. "Hardest V3 in the world" - Niagara Glen veteran

V3 Búlder
9 Contact V6 Búlder
10 Life O'Reilly V6 Búlder
11 Life O'Reilly Sit V7 Búlder
12 Ditchwitch V2 Búlder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Balance

Just around the corner from [No U-Turn], stand start on the blank wall. Work through very delicate movements to achieve the top out.

V4 Búlder
14 Celebrex

Behind the Danzig (No U-Turn) boulder. A small arête problem with a dynamic move to a jug at the end. Sit start on the left side arête under the steep face.

V8 Búlder 3m

The Black CAve

16 Phoenix from the Ashes V12 Búlder
17 The Crucifix V11 Búlder
18 Black Eagle V9 Búlder
19 The Phoenix V11 Búlder
20 Captain Hook V2 Búlder 3m
21 Hook Direct

Stand start on big undercling. Make your way up the underclings on terrible feet to join "Captain Hook". V4 per guidebook

V4 Búlder

Upstairs

23 The Arrow V1 Búlder
24 The Flesh Prince V6 Búlder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 Ababa

Slab. Follow the flake at the right third of the slab to a top out.

V0 Búlder
26 Addis

Face climb on small holds starting on the left third of the slab to a top out.

V2 Búlder
27 Carousel V1 Búlder
28 Working Late V2 Búlder
29 Albatross V3 Búlder
30 The Lion V6 Búlder
31 Frosted Flake

Stand start at the small flake on the arete, traverse up left and across the massive ledge to the end and top out.

V0 Búlder
32 Standard V0- Búlder 3m
33 Left V0 Búlder 4m

Short Cliff

35 Shiny People

Start in the corner and follow the roof left to top out.

V1 Búlder
36 Book Of Mormon

Start in the corner and follow the roof right to top out. Chossy.

V2 Búlder
37 Poo-Tips

Start on the big jug out right and make your way along the roof using a small ledge, a big sloper, and good ledge, to finish up its left side.

V2 Búlder
38 The Pool Police

Stand start on the left side of the wall. Trust your feet and go up small holds veering slightly right and top out. Holds get better the higher you go.

V3 Búlder
39 Dognuts

Stand start at the left side of the boulder at the left arete and a good edge, climb the side to top out.

V1 Búlder
40 Chorizo Fingers

Start as for "The Pool Police" and traverse right across the wall to top out on its right side.

V3 Búlder
41 Tonsai Sunset

Stand start in the middle of the wall. Straight up to top out.

V1 Búlder
42 Tiger Malt

Stand start on the right side of the wall. Up to top out.

V0 Búlder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
43 General Principles

Start as [Mr. Gnu's Gotta Problem] and traverse all the way to the right arête and top out as [Animal Crackers].

V5 Búlder
44 Elephant Talk

stand start on crimps and top out

V3 Búlder
45 Mr. Gnu’s Gotta Problem

Sit start, move through the pinchy holds and then up and out.

V3 Búlder
46 V2by2

Start in the middle of the face on pockets at the arching vertical rail. Get technical and make your way to small holds at the broken section above to top out.

V3 Búlder 4m
47 Animal Crackers

Sit start and climb the column-like arete.

V2 Búlder 4m
48 The Magic Bullet

Short problem

V4 Búlder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Downstairs

50 Ben and Jerry

Sit start on the ledges of "Crimp De La Crimp" and make your way left and up to the large ledge.

V2 Búlder
51 Crimp De La Crimp

Start hold broke 2020. Now starts on the the next jug rail. Up through crimps. Don't top out - lots of moss.

V5 Búlder
52 Epidermal Deficiency

Sit start under the roof as "Crimp De La Crimp". Make a useless move out right to the large flakey jug ledge that flexes when loaded (2024 - it'll likely collapse dramatically at some point), then find a sequence up through thin crimps to the top and right. A large flake with the previous crimp line going right collapsed but the climb is still possible (2024)

V6 Búlder
53 Plumber's Crack V1 Búlder
54 Dad's Day Out V3 Búlder
55 Red Tape V0 Búlder
56 Yosemite Sam

Sit start in the cave on the big chalky hold and exit the roof out left and follow the jugs to an easy top out.

V1 Búlder
57 Pistol Pete

Same start as Yosemite Sam. Exit the roof further out right and go up on dusty holds to a top out. Not much harder than Yosemite Sam.

V2 Búlder
58 Bolero

Start on big ledge, top out around arete.

V1 Búlder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V0- Standard Búlder 3m
V0 Ababa Búlder
Frosted Flake Búlder
Left Búlder 4m
Red Tape Búlder
Tiger Malt Búlder
V1 Bolero Búlder
Carousel Búlder
Dognuts Búlder
Plumber's Crack Búlder
Shiny People Búlder
The Arrow Búlder
Tonsai Sunset Búlder
Yosemite Sam Búlder
V2 Addis Búlder
Animal Crackers Búlder 4m
Ben and Jerry Búlder
Book Of Mormon Búlder
Captain Hook Búlder 3m
Ditchwitch Búlder 4m
Electric French Fries Búlder
Pistol Pete Búlder
Poo-Tips Búlder
Working Late Búlder
V3 Albatross Búlder
Chorizo Fingers Búlder
Dad's Day Out Búlder
Elephant Talk Búlder
Felcher Búlder
Mr. Gnu’s Gotta Problem Búlder
No U-Turn Búlder
The Pool Police Búlder
V2by2 Búlder 4m
V4 Balance Búlder
Hook Direct Búlder
Shocker Búlder
The Magic Bullet Búlder 3m
V5 Crimp De La Crimp Búlder
General Principles Búlder
Pothole Búlder
V6 Contact Búlder
Electric French Fries Sit Búlder
Epidermal Deficiency Búlder
Life O'Reilly Búlder
The Flesh Prince Búlder
The Lion Búlder
V7 Life O'Reilly Sit Búlder
V8 Celebrex Búlder 3m
V9 Black Eagle Búlder
Tantric Shocker Búlder
V11 The Crucifix Búlder
The Phoenix Búlder
V12 Phoenix from the Ashes Búlder
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