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Central Area Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

KieranNorth Jan Gosmann Johnathan Suderman leearmstrong10 Jim Clark L-P Kelly Patton Jordan Lambie @jwelch

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Central Area 53 routes in Area

Summary:
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Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.130605, -79.056493

description

Collection of boulders above wonderland above a short cliff

access issues

To boulder at the Niagara Glen, a permit is required. Permits can be purchased at the Niagara Glen Nature Center (3050 Niagara Parkway) or at the Butterfly Conservatory (2565 Niagara Parkway). They cost $40 and require a signed waiver. Bouldering pemits also include an annual parking pass. Note that some boulders are currently closed due to environmental impact concerns. For more information on permits, trails and which boulders are open/closed see https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit-niagara-parks/nature-activities/bouldering/

inherited from Niagara Glen

ethic

Bouldering Rules:

  1. All Boulder's must sign and submit a completed waiver, pay the required fee and obtain a permit prior to bouldering. Boulder's must carry a permit with them while engaging in bouldering on NPC (Niagara Parks Commission).

  2. Permits are non-transferable

  3. Boulders must exercise all appropriate safety measures during bouldering must adhere to the principle of "your safety is your responsibility"

  4. Boulder's must recognize the risks inherent in their activities and ensure that they have the knowledge, skills and physical fitness to participate.

  5. Boulder's must be properly trained and equipped.

  6. Climbing safety and safety equipment is the responsibility of the participant.

  7. Boulder's must observe and obey Niagara Parks Act and Regulations, NPC policies and rules, and all fencing, barriers, and signs. Failure to comply may result in withholding or revocation of Permits.

  8. Activities are limited to boulders, trails and areas sanctioned by NPC.

  9. Bouldering is secondary to the protection of the boulders' geological, biological and cultural heritage. Boulder's must adhere to the "leave no trace" principle.

  10. Minors (under the age of majority in Ontario) participating in bouldering must be accompanied and supervised by a parent or legal guardian. Issuance of a Permit for participation by minors is subject to completion and submission of a waiver signed by the parent or legal guardian.

  11. Boulder's must not remove or disturb natural resources (e.g. vegetation, soil) or cultural resources from the boulders or any area surrounding the boulders. 12. Topping out is permitted only on those boulders explicitly approved for topping out by NPC.

  12. NPC has the authority to limit the number of Boulder's at specific boulders on NPC property, in its sole discretion. 14. Camping and fires are strictly prohibited on NPC property.

  13. Boulder's must report any violations of these Rules by Boulder's or non-boulder's to NPC for enforcement.

  14. Boulder's must keep dogs on leashes at all times while on NPC property and place all dog waste in garbage receptacles.

  15. The use of drugs or alcohol while on NPC property is prohibited.

  16. Boulder's must keep the peace when bouldering at the Niagara Glen. In order to reduce disturbances to others, yelling is to be kept to a minimum. Use of profane language is prohibited.

  17. NPC reserves the right to amend or cancel the Bouldering activities, or change the NPC Bouldering Rules, at any time without notice and in its sole discretion. leave no trace

  18. Hiking in the Niagara Glen is only permitted between the hours of sunrise and Sunset

inherited from Niagara Glen
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Danzig Boulder

2 Electric French Fries

Stand start on the left face of the Danzig boulder just right of the tree. Straight up to topout.

V2 Boulder
3 Electric French Fries Sit V6 Boulder
4 Felcher

Stand start on the left arête and ride it to the top out. Careful of the tree!

V3 Boulder
5 Tantric Shocker

Sit start on the left arête and climb into either [Felcher] or [Shocker] to finish.

V9 Boulder
6 Shocker

Stand start at the left of the face on a triangle crimp and the "shocker pocket". Climb through glassy slopers to top out.

V4 Boulder
7 Pothole

Start as for "No U-Turn" up to the V-shaped hold. Move out left on terrible slopers to a big move out left to a good edge. Big move up to an edge near the top. Look for a jug further up. Safest/easiest way to top-out is to scale the top of the wall right to top out as "No U-Turn"

V5 Boulder
8 No U-Turn

Stand start on the good edge, followed by your beta of choice to a pinch at the sharp V hold. Move up and right to jugs at the top. Top out. "Hardest V3 in the world" - Niagara Glen veteran

V3 Boulder
9 Contact V6 Boulder
10 Life O'Reilly V6 Boulder
11 Life O'Reilly Sit V7 Boulder
12 Ditchwitch V2 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Balance

Just around the corner from [No U-Turn], stand start on the blank wall. Work through very delicate movements to achieve the top out.

V4 Boulder
14 Celebrex

Behind the Danzig (No U-Turn) boulder. A small arête problem with a dynamic move to a jug at the end. Sit start on the left side arête under the steep face.

V8 Boulder 3m

The Black CAve

16 Phoenix from the Ashes V12 Boulder
17 The Crucifix V11 Boulder
18 Black Eagle V9 Boulder
19 The Phoenix V11 Boulder
20 Captain Hook V2 Boulder 3m
21 Hook Direct

Stand start on big undercling. Make your way up the underclings on terrible feet to join "Captain Hook". V4 per guidebook

V4 Boulder

Upstairs

23 The Arrow V1 Boulder
24 The Flesh Prince V6 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 Ababa

Slab. Follow the flake at the right third of the slab to a top out.

V0 Boulder
26 Addis

Face climb on small holds starting on the left third of the slab to a top out.

V2 Boulder
27 Carousel V1 Boulder
28 Working Late V2 Boulder
29 Albatross V3 Boulder
30 The Lion V6 Boulder
31 Frosted Flake

Stand start at the small flake on the arete, traverse up left and across the massive ledge to the end and top out.

V0 Boulder
32 Standard V0- Boulder 3m
33 Left V0 Boulder 4m

Short Cliff

35 Shiny People

Start in the corner and follow the roof left to top out.

V1 Boulder
36 Book Of Mormon

Start in the corner and follow the roof right to top out. Chossy.

V2 Boulder
37 Poo-Tips

Start on the big jug out right and make your way along the roof using a small ledge, a big sloper, and good ledge, to finish up its left side.

V2 Boulder
38 The Pool Police

Stand start on the left side of the wall. Trust your feet and go up small holds veering slightly right and top out. Holds get better the higher you go.

V3 Boulder
39 Dognuts

Stand start at the left side of the boulder at the left arete and a good edge, climb the side to top out.

V1 Boulder
40 Chorizo Fingers

Start as for "The Pool Police" and traverse right across the wall to top out on its right side.

V3 Boulder
41 Tonsai Sunset

Stand start in the middle of the wall. Straight up to top out.

V1 Boulder
42 Tiger Malt

Stand start on the right side of the wall. Up to top out.

V0 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
43 General Principles

Start as [Mr. Gnu's Gotta Problem] and traverse all the way to the right arête and top out as [Animal Crackers].

V5 Boulder
44 Elephant Talk

stand start on crimps and top out

V3 Boulder
45 Mr. Gnu’s Gotta Problem

Sit start, move through the pinchy holds and then up and out.

V3 Boulder
46 V2by2

Start in the middle of the face on pockets at the arching vertical rail. Get technical and make your way to small holds at the broken section above to top out.

V3 Boulder 4m
47 Animal Crackers

Sit start and climb the column-like arete.

V2 Boulder 4m
48 The Magic Bullet

Short problem

V4 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Downstairs

50 Ben and Jerry

Sit start on the ledges of "Crimp De La Crimp" and make your way left and up to the large ledge.

V2 Boulder
51 Crimp De La Crimp

Start hold broke 2020. Now starts on the the next jug rail. Up through crimps. Don't top out - lots of moss.

V5 Boulder
52 Epidermal Deficiency

Sit start under the roof as "Crimp De La Crimp". Make a useless move out right to the large flakey jug ledge that flexes when loaded (2024 - it'll likely collapse dramatically at some point), then find a sequence up through thin crimps to the top and right. A large flake with the previous crimp line going right collapsed but the climb is still possible (2024)

V6 Boulder
53 Plumber's Crack V1 Boulder
54 Dad's Day Out V3 Boulder
55 Red Tape V0 Boulder
56 Yosemite Sam

Sit start in the cave on the big chalky hold and exit the roof out left and follow the jugs to an easy top out.

V1 Boulder
57 Pistol Pete

Same start as Yosemite Sam. Exit the roof further out right and go up on dusty holds to a top out. Not much harder than Yosemite Sam.

V2 Boulder
58 Bolero

Start on big ledge, top out around arete.

V1 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V0- Standard Boulder 3m
V0 Ababa Boulder
Frosted Flake Boulder
Left Boulder 4m
Red Tape Boulder
Tiger Malt Boulder
V1 Bolero Boulder
Carousel Boulder
Dognuts Boulder
Plumber's Crack Boulder
Shiny People Boulder
The Arrow Boulder
Tonsai Sunset Boulder
Yosemite Sam Boulder
V2 Addis Boulder
Animal Crackers Boulder 4m
Ben and Jerry Boulder
Book Of Mormon Boulder
Captain Hook Boulder 3m
Ditchwitch Boulder 4m
Electric French Fries Boulder
Pistol Pete Boulder
Poo-Tips Boulder
Working Late Boulder
V3 Albatross Boulder
Chorizo Fingers Boulder
Dad's Day Out Boulder
Elephant Talk Boulder
Felcher Boulder
Mr. Gnu’s Gotta Problem Boulder
No U-Turn Boulder
The Pool Police Boulder
V2by2 Boulder 4m
V4 Balance Boulder
Hook Direct Boulder
Shocker Boulder
The Magic Bullet Boulder 3m
V5 Crimp De La Crimp Boulder
General Principles Boulder
Pothole Boulder
V6 Contact Boulder
Electric French Fries Sit Boulder
Epidermal Deficiency Boulder
Life O'Reilly Boulder
The Flesh Prince Boulder
The Lion Boulder
V7 Life O'Reilly Sit Boulder
V8 Celebrex Boulder 3m
V9 Black Eagle Boulder
Tantric Shocker Boulder
V11 The Crucifix Boulder
The Phoenix Boulder
V12 Phoenix from the Ashes Boulder
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