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Oz River Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 17

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

David Martin Kelly Patton KieranNorth Alan Thomas L-P Marcel Skura

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Oz River 12 routes in Area

Summary:
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F
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A
M
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J
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S
O
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D

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.129666, -79.055691

access issues

To boulder at the Niagara Glen, a permit is required. Permits can be purchased at the Niagara Glen Nature Center (3050 Niagara Parkway) or at the Butterfly Conservatory (2565 Niagara Parkway). They cost $40 and require a signed waiver. Bouldering pemits also include an annual parking pass. Note that some boulders are currently closed due to environmental impact concerns. For more information on permits, trails and which boulders are open/closed see https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit-niagara-parks/nature-activities/bouldering/

inherited from Niagara Glen

ethic

Bouldering Rules:

  1. All Boulder's must sign and submit a completed waiver, pay the required fee and obtain a permit prior to bouldering. Boulder's must carry a permit with them while engaging in bouldering on NPC (Niagara Parks Commission).

  2. Permits are non-transferable

  3. Boulders must exercise all appropriate safety measures during bouldering must adhere to the principle of "your safety is your responsibility"

  4. Boulder's must recognize the risks inherent in their activities and ensure that they have the knowledge, skills and physical fitness to participate.

  5. Boulder's must be properly trained and equipped.

  6. Climbing safety and safety equipment is the responsibility of the participant.

  7. Boulder's must observe and obey Niagara Parks Act and Regulations, NPC policies and rules, and all fencing, barriers, and signs. Failure to comply may result in withholding or revocation of Permits.

  8. Activities are limited to boulders, trails and areas sanctioned by NPC.

  9. Bouldering is secondary to the protection of the boulders' geological, biological and cultural heritage. Boulder's must adhere to the "leave no trace" principle.

  10. Minors (under the age of majority in Ontario) participating in bouldering must be accompanied and supervised by a parent or legal guardian. Issuance of a Permit for participation by minors is subject to completion and submission of a waiver signed by the parent or legal guardian.

  11. Boulder's must not remove or disturb natural resources (e.g. vegetation, soil) or cultural resources from the boulders or any area surrounding the boulders. 12. Topping out is permitted only on those boulders explicitly approved for topping out by NPC.

  12. NPC has the authority to limit the number of Boulder's at specific boulders on NPC property, in its sole discretion. 14. Camping and fires are strictly prohibited on NPC property.

  13. Boulder's must report any violations of these Rules by Boulder's or non-boulder's to NPC for enforcement.

  14. Boulder's must keep dogs on leashes at all times while on NPC property and place all dog waste in garbage receptacles.

  15. The use of drugs or alcohol while on NPC property is prohibited.

  16. Boulder's must keep the peace when bouldering at the Niagara Glen. In order to reduce disturbances to others, yelling is to be kept to a minimum. Use of profane language is prohibited.

  17. NPC reserves the right to amend or cancel the Bouldering activities, or change the NPC Bouldering Rules, at any time without notice and in its sole discretion. leave no trace

  18. Hiking in the Niagara Glen is only permitted between the hours of sunrise and Sunset

inherited from Niagara Glen
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Tooth V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Ivy League

Stand start on good hold + crimps. Make your way up to the thin seam crimps to get to the good ledge above. You can top it out but the climbing is easy, loose and sandy after the good jug so you might as well jump down from the jug.

V7 Boulder
3 Tree Hugger

Stand start on ledges and go directly up, trying not to dab on the tree. Very dirty top out.

V2 Boulder
4 Nothing Static

Stand start on the good ledge as "Maha". Move up through crimps. Match on the big horn jug. Can be done static.

V7 Boulder
5 Sally Girl

Start as "Maha" and climb left to the big shelf. Top out not reccommended. Guide book says to top out but there's now a big fallen tree in the way and it's extremely muddy/dirty up there.

V4 Boulder
6 Razor Wire Education

Sit start deep under the roof. Do hard moves and link into "Maha".

V9 Boulder
7 Maha

Start on flat ledge. Traverse Right on crimps to the big shelf at the right-side of the boulder. Paint is no longer an issue on this boulder and the friction is definitely good enough.

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 The Pondering

Start on the good jugs and make your way up the arete.

V5 Boulder
9 Boba Fett

Sit start on RH ledge and LH on "The Pondering"'s start jug. Move up crimps on the right face to top out.

V5 Boulder
10 Honeymooners

Sit start as for "The Honeymoon". Traverse left through and out the corner to finish on good jugs

V2 Boulder
11 The Honeymoon V7 Boulder
12 Watch Your Step

Huge hand crack up a slab.

V0 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V0 Watch Your Step Boulder
V2 Honeymooners Boulder
The Tooth Boulder
Tree Hugger Boulder
V4 Sally Girl Boulder
V5 Boba Fett Boulder
Maha Boulder
The Pondering Boulder
V7 Ivy League Boulder
Nothing Static Boulder
The Honeymoon Boulder
V9 Razor Wire Education Boulder
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