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Wonderland Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Jan Gosmann leearmstrong10 Andrew Serack Kelly Molnar L-P Alan Thomas Jim Clark David Martin KieranNorth

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Wonderland 35 routes in Area

Summary:
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Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.130670, -79.055461

access issues

To boulder at the Niagara Glen, a permit is required. Permits can be purchased at the Niagara Glen Nature Center (3050 Niagara Parkway) or at the Butterfly Conservatory (2565 Niagara Parkway). They cost $40 and require a signed waiver. Bouldering pemits also include an annual parking pass. Note that some boulders are currently closed due to environmental impact concerns. For more information on permits, trails and which boulders are open/closed see https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit-niagara-parks/nature-activities/bouldering/

inherited from Niagara Glen

ethic

Bouldering Rules:

  1. All Boulder's must sign and submit a completed waiver, pay the required fee and obtain a permit prior to bouldering. Boulder's must carry a permit with them while engaging in bouldering on NPC (Niagara Parks Commission).

  2. Permits are non-transferable

  3. Boulders must exercise all appropriate safety measures during bouldering must adhere to the principle of "your safety is your responsibility"

  4. Boulder's must recognize the risks inherent in their activities and ensure that they have the knowledge, skills and physical fitness to participate.

  5. Boulder's must be properly trained and equipped.

  6. Climbing safety and safety equipment is the responsibility of the participant.

  7. Boulder's must observe and obey Niagara Parks Act and Regulations, NPC policies and rules, and all fencing, barriers, and signs. Failure to comply may result in withholding or revocation of Permits.

  8. Activities are limited to boulders, trails and areas sanctioned by NPC.

  9. Bouldering is secondary to the protection of the boulders' geological, biological and cultural heritage. Boulder's must adhere to the "leave no trace" principle.

  10. Minors (under the age of majority in Ontario) participating in bouldering must be accompanied and supervised by a parent or legal guardian. Issuance of a Permit for participation by minors is subject to completion and submission of a waiver signed by the parent or legal guardian.

  11. Boulder's must not remove or disturb natural resources (e.g. vegetation, soil) or cultural resources from the boulders or any area surrounding the boulders. 12. Topping out is permitted only on those boulders explicitly approved for topping out by NPC.

  12. NPC has the authority to limit the number of Boulder's at specific boulders on NPC property, in its sole discretion. 14. Camping and fires are strictly prohibited on NPC property.

  13. Boulder's must report any violations of these Rules by Boulder's or non-boulder's to NPC for enforcement.

  14. Boulder's must keep dogs on leashes at all times while on NPC property and place all dog waste in garbage receptacles.

  15. The use of drugs or alcohol while on NPC property is prohibited.

  16. Boulder's must keep the peace when bouldering at the Niagara Glen. In order to reduce disturbances to others, yelling is to be kept to a minimum. Use of profane language is prohibited.

  17. NPC reserves the right to amend or cancel the Bouldering activities, or change the NPC Bouldering Rules, at any time without notice and in its sole discretion. leave no trace

  18. Hiking in the Niagara Glen is only permitted between the hours of sunrise and Sunset

inherited from Niagara Glen
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dognuts V0 Boulder
2 General Principals

Start on the left side and traverse the main face, staying low to finish on the big side pull

V4 Boulder
3 Mr Gnu's Gotta Problem

SDS right of the arete and move up through small edges

V2 Boulder
4 V2 by 2 V2 Boulder 4m
5 Elephant Talk V3 Boulder 14m
6 Animal Crackers V0 Boulder 4m
7 Motile V0- Boulder 5m
8 Revival V0- Boulder 5m
9 Walking Spanish Down the Glen V0 Boulder
10 Moth Balls

Climb the left arete near the tree

V1 Boulder 5m
11 Cobwebs

Climb the middle of the boulder through the rail

V1 Boulder 5m
12 Dust Bunnies V0 Boulder 5m
13 Kareishu V1 Boulder 5m
14 The Bromance V1 Boulder 5m
15 Attic V0- Boulder 5m
16 The Magic Bullet V4 Boulder 3m
17 Cheez Itz V1 Boulder 3m
18 The Icey Heel

Left to right traverse

V2 Boulder 2m
19 Bounty Hunter V5 Boulder
20 Vigilante Justice V6 Boulder
21 Unknown V3 Boulder 3m
22 Harry Highstep

Sit start on the right side of the face. Up to the top on crimps.

V3 Boulder 3m
23 Mandy Middlefinger

Sit start on the left side of the face. Up on a variety avoiding the arete to the top out.

V2 Boulder 3m
24 Perchy Pete

Start on the left arete and climb the arete to the top

V0 Boulder
25 Pablo Pocket V0 Boulder
26 Who Needs Feet? V1 Boulder
27 The Minimalist

Sit start on good left undercling and tiny right hand sidepull. Haul yourself off the ground and up to the good hold up and slightly to the left and top out. 1-move. Hard for the grade.

V6 Boulder
28 The Impressionist V3 Boulder 2m
29 The Looking Glass

Sit start. Make your way using slopers and compress your way up and slightly to slightly to the left to a jug and an easier top out.

V3 Boulder
30 Alice's Face V0- Boulder 3m
31 Alice's Arete V0- Boulder 3m
32 Alice

Stand start on opposing sidepulls, climb direct and top out. Flat landing and good for new outdoor boulderers.

V1 Boulder
33 Curiouser and Curiouser

Up the obvious crack.

V0 Boulder
34 Cocina V8 Boulder
35 Cry for Deliverance V10 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V0- Alice's Arete Boulder 3m
Alice's Face Boulder 3m
Attic Boulder 5m
Motile Boulder 5m
Revival Boulder 5m
V0 Animal Crackers Boulder 4m
Curiouser and Curiouser Boulder
Dognuts Boulder
Dust Bunnies Boulder 5m
Pablo Pocket Boulder
Perchy Pete Boulder
Walking Spanish Down the Glen Boulder
V1 Alice Boulder
Cheez Itz Boulder 3m
Cobwebs Boulder 5m
Kareishu Boulder 5m
Moth Balls Boulder 5m
The Bromance Boulder 5m
Who Needs Feet? Boulder
V2 Mandy Middlefinger Boulder 3m
Mr Gnu's Gotta Problem Boulder
The Icey Heel Boulder 2m
V2 by 2 Boulder 4m
V3 Elephant Talk Boulder 14m
Harry Highstep Boulder 3m
The Impressionist Boulder 2m
The Looking Glass Boulder
Unknown Boulder 3m
V4 General Principals Boulder
The Magic Bullet Boulder 3m
V5 Bounty Hunter Boulder
V6 The Minimalist Boulder
Vigilante Justice Boulder
V8 Cocina Boulder
V10 Cry for Deliverance Boulder
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