Ascensiones en Toni Schmid Gedenkwand

Exe preclipped. Musste oben kurz überlegen wie ich aus dem Untergriff an der Schuppe rauskomme.

Brilliant line through the crack in the roof of the cave. Intimidating clip of the bolt before the fun starts, leaning out from the cave face turned outwards. From there it's absolutely safe, though, and you can jam away! Wedged both feet into the wide crack and could comfortably search for the next good jam. Two meters later, it transitions into typical Franconian jug pulling for a while, and where the wall leans back again, a perfect dihedral starts, with just enough footholds to make it interesting but not desperate. The overhang at the end of the dihedral makes it clear why the first ascensionists of "Toni Schmid Gedenkweg" didn't go up there, but decided to traverse further around the rock using rope tension on abseil.

Offensichtlich saniert und nun sehr gut gesichert 👍

Richtig schön, eine schwere Stelle. Eher soft

Klassisch bewertet

Cool feature, though not as proud as it looks from the ground. Given how much climbing it shares with its righthand neighbour, it wasn't substantially harder (maybe a grade, or so?) Last climb of the trip, and down to the wire, so no time for the proper red point, though its not any harder than the cheeky toppy.

Awesome steep start cranking up pockets, followed by an easy but pleasant face climb.

Fell off trying to get the 2nd draw on (the crux of the route!). A cool, but gnarly opening boulder, then pleasant easy bridging.

Great endurance piece. Not exactly the best conditions, the greasy holds in the first overhang were sweating quite a bit. Didn't realize I had to hook at the rooflet, climbed up into a dead end and dropped off. The foothook beta is quite nice, and probably also a little easier when the grip is better. Crux starts at the big, round pocket. The direct variant, which is rarely climbed, seems to be quite brutal. Most people veer to the right, which feels a bit awkward, but that I could manage as well. Easier climbing in great rock to the top, with a nice runout to the anchor.

Got to the round pocket before the crux, then made a fuss. The crux seems a little harder on top rope, too. ;-) Or maybe I was just tired.

Unten machbar aber ausdauernd, letzten 2 Exen sind richtig hart

im 2. Go, geiler Kampf bei schwülen Bedingungen.