Vías como clásica en Donautal

One of the classics in the 'Donautal'.

1. 22m (6-) Straight up to the end of the dihedral. Two slings and 3 bolts. Between the first and the second bolt a nut is useful to improve protection. On the band, after the dihedral, head right and traverse to the first belay anchor. Watch out for rappelling climbers.

2. 22m (6) From the anchor back to the left and before the arete upwards 3m. At some big holes traverse left to the arete and then keep right to reach the second belay right of the arete and 5 meters below the chimney of pitch 3.

3. 22m (6+) Traverse left to the arete again (2m) and then climb upwards to reach the second bolt of this pitch. At that bolt climb around the corner and piaz into the chimney. Here a green cam (.75) and some meters above a grey (4) are helpful. At the end of the chimney the route splits up. Left is the crack of the exit variant 'Direkter Rissaustieg'. The original route is 2m on the right of the crack. One bolt and one old sling on the way. At the top use the handrail or the trees to belay.

Very good but hard exit variant of 'Efeuverschneidung'. Crack skills, trad gear and endurance are necessary.

BH pro SL: 7, 3, 4

Optional kann in der 1. SL nach 25m ein Stand gemacht werden (2 BH vorhanden). Dann sind es 4 SL. ;-)

BH pro SL: 7, 3, 4

BH pro SL: 5, 3, 4

Short trad line that starts with a juggy side pull. Followed by pockets and ends with some face climbing. Shares the lower off with Samson.

The crack-dihedral right of 'Naturpark-Express'. Top rope can be set up via 'Naturpark-Express'.

Holes and pockets protected by one bolt and several pre-placed slings. Crux just below the ovherung. A crack follows that has the be protected by nuts. Good placements for BD rocks 10-13.

Nice crack. At the top you may find draw rock.

The first 20 meters are in a wide chimney and very easy to climb. Then the chimney ends in a little roof and goes on as a hand wide crack. Here the difficulties start.

If walking by the route doesn't look very promising but the first pitch (VI+) is worth to climb. The second pitch has to be done with trad equipment but is much easier (IV)

1. 30m (6) Dihedral with hand crack. Long distances between bolts. Rocks and friends helpful.

2. 20m (6+) From the belay head left to change the dihedrals side. Short crux at the first bolt. Hole and crack climbing.

Klassiker an der 2. Zinne. Die erste Seillänge hat nur 2 Haken und kann mit Klemmkeilen und Friends/Cams abgesichert werden. Außerdem ist eine lange Schlinge (>120cm) für das Köpfle vor dem 2. Haken hilfreich.

1. 25m (6+) Very nice pitch. Starts with a crack right of the first sling. The last third of the pitch is an awesome dihedral with a block in your way. Shares the belay with 'Gigs'.

2. 25m (7-)

Starts with face climbing at small crimps - keep slightly right of the first bolt. Then follow the big crack/dihedral until the lower off anchor. Big friends/cams and nuts to improve protection after the third bolt.

Classic route following the arete between the sectors 'Nordseite' and 'Idiotenüberhang'. The crux is the start of the route. Slightly overhanging and the good holds are polished. After the crux rock quality is better.

Don't leave gear in the route. It is better to walk down.

Classic crack with few ring hangers. Can easily be climbed with trad gear only. Nuts and cams. A must at the cliff.

Another Eigerturm variant that climbs from right to the center of the wall joins the Eigerturm route branches of into direct finish through a great dihedral. Below the dihedral, the crux, you may use the semi hanging belay to avoid rope drag. Protection may be improved with Cams and nuts.

Shares the start with 'Südpfeiler' but branches to the right at the second ring anchor of 'Direkter Eigerturm'. From there follow the slings right of 'Südpfeiler' route.

Gear:

13 QDs, various slings

Easier variant of 'Igor' along a large shed where you have to take courageously. Great laybacks at the beginning and holes at the end. Nuts are recommended to improve protection before the first bolt and the easier parts above the shed.

No bolts and no one climbs this.

Verschneidungs- und Risskletterei mit großzügigen Hakenabständen. Wer den Runout am Faustriss im letzten Drittel der ersten Seillänge fürchtet, kann mit Cams von 2-5 für etwas Entspannung sorgen.

Connection from 'Linke Route' to 'Frühsportweg' via a crack without bolts.

Tradroute, die unten immer rechts der 'Neue Route' verläuft. Mobiler Stand auf dem Band in Wandmitte möglich. Zweiter Teil geht über eine neue, gefädelte Schlinge in den Ausstieg von 'Schneiderweiße' über.

Tradroute durch den Überhang links von "Sockelwand". Absicherbar mit Schlinge im Vorbau und Friends im Überhang. Ausstieg leicht links über Sloperband auf den kleinen Absatz links des Überhangs.

Between 'Rittlerkante' and 'Verschneidung'. Long run-out from the last sling to the lower-off anchor of 'Verschneidung'.

Really rewarding route at pockets. Lots of natural pro (slings, tri-cams). Shares the first meters with 'Traumwand'.

Starts at threads (black sling), followed by a short slab section (bolt). Then follow the obvious, most logical line along the flake to the right (2 slings). Then take a run-out (or improve pro) to the belay at the start of the chimney. Climb through the chimney (1 bolt) until a small roof (sling) then head left via a bolt slightly overhanging to the anchor.

Just before the belay of the second pitch of 'Traumwand' follow the thin crack straight upwards to the lower off of 'Traumwand'.

Leichtester Weg durch die Wand. Entsprechend oft begangen. Zum Teil etwas speckig. Dennoch ein wunderbarer Klassiker und durch die senkrechte Wand sehr ausgesetzt. Zusätzliche mobile Sicherungen sind in allen SL zu empfehlen. Ausstieg erlaubt.

The first pitch shares the first meters with the 'Via Lochus'. After the 5th bolt it turns left to a dihedral with a crack. The belay anchor is shared with the 'Dreierweg'. From there climb to the right (3m) and follow the hand wide crack. There are two slings in the crack. Friends 1-4 may be useful. At the top you will find to bolts which are the lower off point of 'Gailtalerin', 'Via Lochus' and 'Walzkante'. You may climb a little further to reach another belay at the end of 'Albtraum'.

Left variant of 'Walzkante'.

Leichteste Route am Fels und dementsprechend poliert, aber trotzdem gut.

#falken-trilogie

Rewarding, steep and increasingly demanding at the end.The first 2 hooks the route shares with the route 'Hängender Block'.

Tolle Verschneidung mit durchgehendem Faustriss. Unten sieht es stark nach Schwabenbruch aus, aber es lohnt sich, denn das Minidach ist super.

#falken-trilogie