Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Holdup Line Direct Finish
| 20m | |||
14 | ★ Ckinell
The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start. Start: Just L of Melville's Cave. PA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970 | 28m | |||
14 | ★ Hangman
Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish. Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack. PA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Kelly Watch The Stars
The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected. | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Cerrado Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder | |||||
V0- | V0 Problem
| 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Nero
The crack requires a bit of jamming. Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'. PA: Philip Stranger & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 13m | |||
14 | ★ Tom Thumb
The layback corner. Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'. PA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969 | 15m | |||
14 | Roaming Knows
The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose. PA: Smith, Hoskins, G. Jones & Ed Irvine, 1996 | 8m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls | |||||
14 | Dud Day Afternoon
The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.
PA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000 | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | A Sore Finger
Steep direct line with some brittle rock. The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack. PA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 2008 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall | |||||
14 | Climb is not the correct noun
From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock. PA: Wendy Eden & Dan Flynn, Sep 2018 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | |||||
14 | I'm A Little Teapot
Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings. PA: Keith, Tim & Fiona Lockwood, 2001 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall | |||||
14 | Rat Cracker
Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards' PA: Bert Levy & steve Holloway, 1998 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall | |||||
14 | Chico
Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack. PA: Paul Badenoch, 7 Ag 2019 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | |||||
14 | Huldra
Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan. PA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 11 Mar 2015 | 15m | |||
14 | Scatterbrain
If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now! Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress. PA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977 | 45m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | |||||
14 | ★ Tarzan
Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders. Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.
PA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968 | 33m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Eurylochus
Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.
PA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977 | 33m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||
14 | ★ Quaver
Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face. Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way. PA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966 | 30m, 1 | |||
14 | ★★ D Minor
1
10
25m
2
14
10m
The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.
PA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964 | 35m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | |||||
14 | ★★ Libretto - CS Concerto combo
This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of Libretto.
| 50m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ C.S. Concerto
A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up Holpyp which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric. Start in the D Major gully.
PA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967 | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ Fiddle Diddle
Desperate for short people. Start below the gully between the Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo pipes, immediately right of Woodwind. PA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss., 1983 | 30m | |||
14 | ★ Cod Piece
Not attractive. Start as for Fiddle until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo. PA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Wilkins, 1995 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||
14 | ★★ Tremulo
Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten. Start at short chimney 5 metres right of Humouresque. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor. PA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966 | 25m | |||
14 | Alychne
The Alychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett was an optometrist). This climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic; the mossy appearance, fiddly protection and indirect line tend to put people off. Double ropes are very useful. Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack. Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (many RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall. PA: Gordon Talbett & Peter McKeand., 1968 | 40m | |||
14 | Middle 8
Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top. Start: PA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Chris Frost., 2000 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump | |||||
14 | Underachiever
It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long. Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof. PA: Bert Levy, 1998 | 30m | |||
14 | Overachiever
Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor. PA: Dave Scarlett & Wendy Bruere, 7 Dic 2014 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area | |||||
14 | Blobs Away
Start: The next line right. PA: L, P & H, 1995 | 8m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Three Pitches to Glory
The wall. Start: Start just L of P. PA: Mike Law & Ben Ewald, 1976 | 15m | |||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train
2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves. Start: Start 6m R of DS. Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall. PA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1978 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | |||||
14 | Ball Terrier
The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment. Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism. Up, finishing on arete. PA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 15m | |||
14 | Bitch Wank
Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up. Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front. PA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||
14 | ★★ Loyalty
Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap. Start: Start between H & F. PA: Keith Egerton & Jim Grellis, 1975 | 18m | |||
14 | Beguiled
A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit. PA: Pete Holmes & Patrick Eastment, 2014 | 15m | |||
14 | It Went
Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up. PA: Peter Holmes & Tim Proctor, 2011 | 12m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||
14 | Penny Lane
Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.
PA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 11 Mar 2017 | 20m | |||
14 | Meanwhile...
Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start 15m L of Megalomaniac. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss. PA: Kieran Loughran, Phil Wilkins, Steve Burke & Angela Emmerson, 1985 | 20m | |||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac
Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor. PA: John Moore, 1967 | 28m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | |||||
14 | Next Horizon
3m right of Hassan is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above. PA: Rod Young, 1979 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | |||||
14 | Easier Access
Avoids the unprotected start of Access, to end up with a pleasant face climb. Traverse right from the start of Eat Your Greens to a crack in a scoop and climb up from there. | 30m | |||
14 | ★ Wild Mountain Thyme
Start at the crack R of A. Up the R crack, which doglegs left at half height. Good rock and climbing. Chain at about 30m. PA: Peter Watling & Robert Sissons, 1982 | 30m | |||
14 | Wild Mountain Sage
Start as for WMT. Continue right and up the crack. Finish left at WMT anchor. PA: Rhys & Dan Flynn, 27 Dic 2018 | 29m | |||
14 | Pitchfork
Up the line behind gum tree at right end of cliff. Meander left at top to anchor of Babylon or continue to base of Skyline Walls. Enjoyable climbing but be careful of large questionable blocks at 10m. PA: Keith Lockwood + others, 1982 | 40m | |||
14 | Gethsemane
Start at the far right, beneath the highest part of the wall, where a striking but vegetated line goes up and L under roofs 20m up. Bridge up the groove to the R end of the roof. Now swing up R and up grey wall. To descend, walk up to base of Copyright and scramble carefully down to chains on WMT. PA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967 | 35m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||
14 R | Castelle
Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on Dunes Buttress).
PA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1966 | 45m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress Western Desert | |||||
14 | ★ Ngarrinarri
Good climb but watch out for loose rock up to the overhang. Belay on left side of big ledge 35m down abseil. Up grey then orange corner to the overhang. Steep through overhang and on up to final easy ground to top. PA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 2014 | 35m | |||
14 | Crusader
Originally started up 'Lawrence', a start no-one would want to repeat. Start: Start by the giant chockstone.
PA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Schirmer, 1977 | 60m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Cerrado Fang Buttress | |||||
14 | ★★ Mantis
Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left. Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang. PA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1965 | 33m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Cerrado Plaque | |||||
14 | ★ Minimus
The bulging crack just right of the plaque. PA: Bob Bull & John Fahey | 12m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder | |||||
V0- | ★ The usual descent
| 5m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder | |||||
V0- | ★ High traverse
| 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder | |||||
V0- | V0-
On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney. | 5m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder | |||||
V0- | 8
Up jugs by pockets | 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs John's Pinnacle | |||||
14 | ★ Shoadee
Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle. Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish. PA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 24m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||
14 | Lightning Crack
Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the major break to Bulger. PA: Matt Taylor & John Chapman, 1976 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | |||||
14 | ★ New Tricks
Spectacular climbing on the 'Swansong' wall. Steps left from a roof above the 'Hawk' traverse, then finishes up a hanging corner high on the right-hand tower.
PA: Geoff Little, Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 24 Jul 2015 | 110m | |||
14 | Swansong
Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'
PA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1974 | 120m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ Resignation-Kaiser
The "Other" linkup of Kaiser and Resignation. Climb the first two pitches of Resignation to belay just above the horns. Take the fun traverse L to finish up the last two pitches of Kaiser. | 110m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | |||||
14 | ★ Shaggy's Route
1
14
40m
2
13
35m
3
13
35m
4
?
Increasing traffic means that this route has cleaned up quite nicely. With more traffic it should become as good as the Dribble but at a higher grade and with more varied climbing. The climb originally included a grade 18 finish through the capping overhangs which Shaggy didn't think worth writing up. Start: Start below a cleaned streak about 15 metres right of 'Broken Song'. There may be the remains of a cairn.
PA: Shaun Kratzer & Derek Chadderton | 110m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Heart of Stone
One of the Mount's best waterfalls after an extended period of rain. Start: Deep in the back of the grotto beside a pile of skeleton bones. PA: Bruno Zielke & Gordon Talbett, 1969 | 27m | |||
14 | ★ Squeaker
Another early climb. This one is supposedly better than it looks. Start: About 7m R of 'Boomer'.
PA: Possibly John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1965 | 41m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | |||||
14 | Lichenthrope
About 3m right of the far left edge of DR Pinnacle. Move up and right to bulging small overhang. Up and over this then slightly back left across cloud princess like lovely lumps. Straight up to top. PA: Kai Seth Robertson, 15 Mayo 2018 | 20m | |||
14 | Buttons
Directly behind Garden Gnome some 10 metres around the corner. Short steep line to a series of scoops that look like buttons. Rap off Garden Gnome chains. PA: Hywel Rowlands amd Michael Dowling, 8 Jun 2014 | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Black Box
4 metres right of Buttons. Tricky climbing up black stained wall into small sentry box. Out to right side of box and head up arête of pinnacle. PA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Dowling, 8 Jun 2014 | 25m | |||
14 | Black Box Direct Start
Nicer than the sentry-box start and no harder! Fingery wall midway between Black Box and Howling moving slightly left to join the original climb at about 6m. PA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 6 Feb 2016 | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||
14 | ★ Midgets Club
Start on ledge opposite Virginia on the Pharos. Up the cracks, veering left through blocky roof. Then traverse left past the giant chock stone bridge, and up to the anchor on Spasm in a Chasm. Rap off Spasm’s Anchor back to the belay ledge. PA: Jae Zhong & muki woods, 30 Oct 2019 | 27m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | |||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter
1
10
30m
2
14
30m
3
13
18m
An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon. Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.
PA: 1965 | 78m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | |||||
14 | Punts On A Whim
Start on the south side of The Pharos, down right of Gunk In The Pimms, at the base of the gullybetweene Uncle Charlie and The Pharos. Up diagonal corner on arête to ledge then left and finish up Gunk in the Pimms. PA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 7 Mayo 2016 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | |||||
14 | Tamesis
Up crack for 7 metres, step left and go up to and over high roofline. Start: Start at crack 20 metres left of "Vanoise". PA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke, 1969 | 42m | |||
14 | ★ West Coast Dogma
Start at chimney-cleft 10 metres right of "Vanoise". Up line. At small overhang step onto right arete and up steep wall. Abseil as for Agent Orange. PA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967 | 33m | |||
14 | Robinson Crusoe
The wall right of Sombrero has been dubbed Treasure Island - I have my doubts. Climb the slab and steep wall midway between Sombrero and South Pacific. Continue easily, then finish steeply up the centre of the headwall left of South Pacific. PA: Keith Lockwood & Kurt Pitts, 5 Abr 2015 | 35m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Baker's Wall | |||||
14 | Soggy Muffin
A few metres left of Lou Will be Pissed are two flake lines. This is the right one. Not the best routes in the world but not really any worse than the other route routes on the wall. PA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 14 En 2017 | 15m | |||
14 | Marcia’s Route
A nice corner-crack behind tree leading directly to the foot of Squirrel & Baker's Delight. If only doing this climb, belay on the first ledge and walk off left. PA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Marcia, 2006 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | |||||
14 | Crab Walk
Hard to justify this one; essentially an indirect version of Hendor Direct Finish a quarter of a century later.
PA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 23 Feb 2017 | 38m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | |||||
14 | My Waxing Gibbous
Start just to the right of the wide crack between Bland and Boy's Own. After the bulge at the shrub, immediately step left and traverse across delicate face through Bland before pulling through lip and up to rap station for In Lemon Butter. PA: Oliver Adams & Angie Isobel, 1 Feb | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | |||||
14 | No Room for Mistakes
Hand crack 12 metres left of "Trampled Underfoot". PA: Tim Beaman & Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area | |||||
14 | Lusts of the Flesh
Seam 1-2 metres right of 'Earthly Pleasures'. PA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1986 | 14m | |||
14 | ★ Carnal Intent
Crack through bulge just right of Lusts Of The Flesh. PA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1986 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | |||||
14 | ★ The Green Singer
1
14
45m
2
12
45m
3
12
20m
4
12
15m
Dedicated to John Shaw Neilson, Australia's finest lyric poet. From the top of this climb much of Neilson's country is spread out in clear view to the northwest. Fairly good climbing though the rock low on the second pitch is not the best. Worth a go if you're tired of Bard and all the Mount's other classics. Start: Start L of 'Aphrodite' (itself not written up!).
PA: Lockwood. (var) PA: Keith & Tim, 2002 | 130m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | |||||
14 R | ★★ Hot Flap
1
8
24m
2
13
30m
3
14 R
32m
4
13
50m
5
12
35m
Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected. Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
PA: John Fahey & Bob Bull, 1965 | 170m, 5, 3 | |||
14 | ★★ Driftwood/Antigone
PA: Speedie, Stone, Kerkin / Caffin & Wilcox | 120m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | |||||
14 | ★★ Salamander
1
12
25m
2
13
25m
3
14
10m
4
14
25m
5
12
30m
Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing. Start as for Watchtower Crack.
PA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1964 | 120m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ Gecko
A nice pitch that can be done as a direct start to Salamander or as a climb in its own right. PA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & John Moore, 1965 | 48m | |||
14 | ★★ Gecko / Salamander Link
As for Gecko (14) to the rap chains then follow Salamander to the top. | 100m, 3 | |||
14 | ★★ Mantle
More great slabbing. Start 8 metres right of Brolga, directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.
PA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965 PA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965 | 90m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Lounge Lizard
The first of a couple of nondescript routes up the vast moss gardens of the right Watchtower. Start 5 metres right of The Mantle at a clean seam.
PA: Kieth Lockwood, Geoff Gledhill & Barry Edwards, 1981 | 95m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Blue Tongue
Another mossy filler. Start 8 metres right of Lounge Lizard on cleanish rock.
PA: Peter Kraehenbuhl & Darren Crawford, 1990 | 85m, 3 | |||
14 | Chameleon
Another just OK route wandering its way up the moss. Superseded by Chameleon Connection. PA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1983 | 90m | |||
14 | ★ Chameleon Connection
1
14
27m
2
13
22m
3
13
39m
4
10
18m
This route combines the best bits of Chameleon and Joyride as well as improving the first pitch of Chameleon. Start 25 metres right of Brolga at a short seam through a bulge, a few metres left of the bolted bulge of Omaha Beach.
PA: See Chameleon & Joyride, 2000 | 110m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | |||||
14 R | Manx
The right-hand of the 3 prominent crack-lines starts with a character-building thrutch. Most people will opt to do the Right-Hand Variant or Cheshire Cat instead but it could be worth testing your technique on this. PA: Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 1965 | 25m | |||
14 | ★ Manx Right-Hand Variant
A good, fairly direct, way of doing Manx without the thrutching. Start at the diagonal crack 1m R of Manx. PA: Unknown., 2000 | 25m | |||
14 | Creeque Alley
Bushy, mossy rock to start. Start 4m R of bent-over old tree. PA: Andrew Smith & Chris Baxter, 1967 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Bolero Wall | |||||
14 | Rolling Stone
Pleasant crack 3 metres right of 'Bolero'. PA: Gordon Talbett, Phil Grossi & Rein Kamar, 1969 | 11m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area | |||||
14 | ★ A Whale Of A Time
Another pleasant ramble. Start: At toe of buttress just left of "Beau Geste"
PA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2010 | 140m, 5 | |||
14 | Stop lt Or You'll Go Blind
Climb middle of face right of 'Goonkachoong'. PA: Dennis Kemp & Dave Mudie, 1989 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Shiralee Wall | |||||
14 | Dingbats
Start: 4 metres left of 'The Shiralee'.
PA: Keith Lockwood & Tony Yap. Start as described by Chris Baxter et al., 1984 | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | Tea is Full of Good Things
The Beatuitiful Possiblities of the Northern Group! Ok, maybe not quite, but it is a delicate line up the front of a buttress. Gear is fiddly. Up seam right of Cold Episode, continue up front of buttress and through overlap at top. Traverse to anchor on Banana Expert PA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 25 Mar 2016 | 25m | |||
14 | I will build a great wall
Up wall left of easy crack, past 2 bolts and small bulge. Take a 2 RP. PA: Wendy Eden & Ying Ying He, 12 Jun 2017 | 2 |