Ayuda

Western Desert

  • Contexto de grado: AU
  • Ascensiones: 11
4
AU

Estacionalidad

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Descripción

The upper walls left of Lawrence are a shady and remote location for hot mornings and are best approached by abseil. Otherwise it's an appalling 70 metre grovel up the start of Lawrence and then on up the chimney between the wall and the Castelle pinnacle. There's a fair amount of fragile rock in this area so helmets for seconds are a good idea.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Skyline Walls Area

Restricciones heredado de Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Acceso

Abseil (60m) from ledges back and a bit higher than the top of the Dunes buttress into the gap between the wall and the Castelle pinnacle, ending up next to the huge chockstone. There are two bolts to abseil from but no chains yet. A dedicated abseil rope is a good idea as there are on lot of small stones on the easy slabby section at the top that could be come down when retrieving the rope.

Ética heredado de Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Etiquetas

Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Vías

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Grado Vía

Good climb but watch out for loose rock up to the overhang. Belay on left side of big ledge 35m down abseil. Up grey then orange corner to the overhang. Steep through overhang and on up to final easy ground to top.

PA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 2014

The next three routes start in the gully behind Starless Buttress, left and slightly lower than the huge chockstone. The starts are hidden by the top of Starless Buttress in the topo.

Start as for 'The Empty Quarter'.

  1. 15m (15) Up to thin crack and up past bolt. Easier face left of bushy groove to big ledge.

  2. 35m (16) Pull onto buttress just right of Ngarrinarri and up and right at bolt. Up a few moves just right of centre then step back left and steeply up the centre of the buttress. Easy slabby country leads to the top, taking the last little step to the left or right.

PA: Kieran Loughran, maureen little & sean Smallacombe, 17 En 2016

Good climbing with thin moves low down and with an overhanging groove high on the cliff. Can be done in a single long pitch or can break at a couple of places (15m or 40m). Was graded 17 before the bolt went in. Start about 5-6 metres left of the giant chockstone, below a thin seam Up to seam and up this (FH) then easy ground just right of bushy groove until line steepens (optional belay on large ledge to left). Follow the line, finishing up overhanging groove to the final easy slabby stuff. (optional belay at start of easy ground).

PA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Little & Keith Lockwood, 2014

Originally started up 'Lawrence', a start no-one would want to repeat.

Start: Start by the giant chockstone.

  1. 20m (14) Step onto the chockstone (or up short, steep wall just left of it) then juggy wall up to and up pale grey corner on right arete..

  2. 40m (14) Up just left of the arete until things ease.

PA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Schirmer, 1977

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Fecha: 2016

número ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Autor(es): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Fecha: 2013

número ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Autor(es): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Fecha: 2011

número ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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