Ascensiones en Estados Unidos de América como Tick o First ascent

Absolutely phenomenal line, up there with the Spartan for the best 5.7 in existence. Except this is 3 pitches of equal quality climbing. Sick corner and roof on p1, absurd runout arete face climbing exposure on p2, a chimney that you wish went forever into a pretty scary traverse on a single bent up piton into 40m of jug hauling on p3. P3 traverse absolutely scarier on second with the lack of pro but J powered through after hauling the pack through the chimney - smiles the whole way up the jug haul.

I absolutely butchered the route finding on p2 when trying to link pitches, rope drag defeated me on the solable terrain just shy of the summit - linkup with corro corner

Rope was getting in the way

Epic day out in an absurd position with Yosemite falls putting on a show with peak flow of the year after all the snow melt.

Ethan and I brainstormed this one the night before and decided it sounded like a good idea - no real beta to go off we just took everything and went. 3500ft of elevation with a big pack was a slog, had a lot of tourists in awe of whatever we were doing.

Crazy amount of fixed ropes at the top (6) definitely needs a garbage disposal job. Fixed the 80m rope - which was clutch, a 70m would've required coming off rappel onto some extremely suspect traversing. Mixture of free and aid on the first pitch - 3 x #4s were again a good call. Second pitch was the technical aid, which is absolutely eased of all hooks by God's greatest gift in Yosemite - a rack of totems. Trusting a half engaged totem took a hot second, but it's bomb as the package says. Also turns out carrot bolts (rivets) back in Australia aren't so special, they exist here too - but they don't take plates, just nuts or actual rivet hangers which of course we didn't have. Sick position on the pitch then a bolt ladder to finish.

Got to the top, figured neither of us have ever rigged a tyrolean before but it was pretty easy to figure out. The rope access course I did before coming here actually paid off here in making it easier. Jugging the tyrolean was the hardest part of the day. Everything went perfectly??? We were both shocked.

Yosemite animal bingo was on fire on the walk off. Saw a Marmot, peregrine, brown bear and cub, California king snake, Alex Honnold on his bike at camp 4.

Does it count as a clean send if you undergrip on mega jugs on a 5.8 then fall 2m onto a ledge standing and your belayer doesn't even notice?

Sick Yosemite intro - p6 was the scariest thing I've ever led, 2 pitons and one worthwhile cam placement over 30m of traversing while still not totally trusting the granite smears - the handholds were the equivalent of pulling on a stale arnotts lemon crisp at points.

Felt like I went through a footwork class over 10 pitches and it finally started to click by the end. Shit's rough in the valley.

Linked 1/2, 3/4, 7-8.5 then ran out of rope.

Fell on the last hard move misreading the move right where the crack ends. Incredible movement on thin crack. Would be nice to come back to it to dial the gear and try on lead!

Polished start with no hands meant fell heaps. Can I even call myself a slab climber? After the start, padding up the runnel was truly a unique feeling. No way I'd want to lead the second pitch with one bolt in 30 mt. WHATAPLACE!

wasp net fuckery

Indian creek rock up at the car park and ask the first crew you see to climb with you pays off.

Saw a group of 6 fun looking folk hanging around and asked if I could join them, they said they didn't know what they were climbing - just said they were waiting for a friend to arrive and they were doing some of their wide FAs.

Well their friend was Pamela Pack and it turns out I was dropping in on her art of offwidth clinic and she was stoked to have me to mooch off her knowledge. With unmatched stoke and enthusiasm "And who's this guy???? Got a rope? Let's go climb some wide stuff!"

Learned how to tape effectively, how to climb every size on this climb - it tapers (very smoothly) from #1 to #8 - did this on a mock lead, placing #8 cams feels exactly as sick as you think it does. Had Pam spraying me down on. A fixed line from above and Gisely from the ground, doesn't get better than this.

Best climbing day ever? Certainly up there.

Had almost canned the idea of climbing at Sedona once I figured how cooked the camping situation was. But my Flagstaff Walmart car nap was interrupted at 11pm by a thankful text from Dillon.

Probably one of the most beautiful places I've ever been, shame about all the rich people with cooked houses ruining the area.

We decided on the mace as our route of choice - a strikingly visible from the highway sandstone tower.

Listed as 5.9+ on Mountain project - big emphasis on the plus at parts. Who knew 1954 FAs might be even thrutchier than the Aussie equivalent. Sick climbing, incredible positions, and the step across the void to gain the true summit on pitch 5 is particularly novel. As well as the rap off the logbook bollard with a rattly lid. Rad day out.

Pitch 3 and 4 have to be as good as 5.8 trad gets, phenomenal line. Absolutely worth the repeat to do the upper pitches

What a spectacular route, 5 pitches of 3 star funk followed by 4 pitches of varnish plates which are really just runout heady sport pitches. Soon to be repeat ascensionists beware of the convenient ledge half way up pitch 7, the Mississippi mud falcon an emergency landing there, you can get a good look at it on rappel if you really want, should hopefully leave the ledge after the next spot of rain. 11 car to car, fantastic middle of the supermarket bar (????) beers to cap it off

Hard but high quality.

Very cool moves through the crux. Sharp though, took a lot of skin.

What a cool route. The start was joyful on laybacky and stemmy moves until you reach the massive overhung wall. Classic RR forearm pump stuff..