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Serenity Crack Area

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Restricciones heredado de Yosemite National Park

As of 27/06/22:

-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )

-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.

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Vías

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Grado Vía

Two forgettable access pitches lead to three awesome pitches of flakes and splitter cracks. Rap the route with two ropes.

PA: Gene Drake & Rex Spaith, 1971

From where the approach trail meets the cliff head up and left along the face for about 180 ft, passing one bolt line, looking for a left facing corner with blocky climbing up and right up the corner with a bolt line rising up and rightwards (for three bolts, then curving back left) on the face to the left of the corner.

  1. 140ft, 5.2, to a large ledge with thin crack in the back. (Supertopo guide shows three bolts -- they don't exist as of 2014, and no sign of their ever having existed.)

  2. 150ft 5.7. Climb up the thin crack, then up poorly protected face to a splitter crack, then crack/chimney system to a ledge and tree.

  3. 100ft. 5.7. Walk to the left edge of the ledge, then step left off the edge into a crack and flake system. Climb up this trending leftwards to a solid crack then up to a hanging belay (bolts). (Link P3 and P4 with a 70m rope to avoid hanging belay.)

  4. 5.8 110ft. Climb up the obvious crack system above the belay, step right as it peters out to another crack system, and up past a small roof to the belay on a small ledge (bolts).

  5. Climb up the cracks above to the wide-fingers steeper final section (5.9), then step left to the anchor (bolts).

Rap to the hanging belay, then from there off the left edge of the ramp to a tree, then to the ground.

PA: Gene Drake & Rex Spaith, 1971

Fist size flaring crack widens at about 80 ft to about body width ends with a squeeze under a block with anchors on top of the block.

PA: Glen Denny & Les Wilson, 1961

PAL: Tom Higgins & Chris Jones, 1967

This climb was the first free route up the buttress, it was done before the much better Sons, Sons was full of dirt and took months of cleaning with ice axes and thats why I chose this line, it isn't recommended at all, do Sons.

PA: Dimitri Barton-Steve Gerberding

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Erik Sloan

Fecha: 2020

número ISBN: 9781467596916

A selective guidebook describing over 350 big wall routes in Yosemite Valley, covering Ribbon Fall, El Capitan, Camp 4 Wall, Yosemite Falls Wall, Rhombus Wall, Arches Wall, Washington Column, Mt. Watkins, Quarter Dome, Half Dome, Porcelain Wall, Mt. Broderick, Liberty Cap, Panorama Wall, Jericho Wall, FireFall Wall, Glacier Point, 9 O’clock Wall, Sentinel Rock, Lost Brother, The Cathedrals, Wall of Ages, Leaning Tower, Fifi Buttress, and Valley West area.

Autor(es): Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore

Fecha: 2020

número ISBN: 9781735608006

Detailing more than 1,300 boulder problems and packed with personal essays and breathtaking photos, Yosemite Bouldering is a must-have guidebook for anyone climbing in Yosemite.

  • Contains detailed descriptions of more than 1,300 boulder problems, including over 400 new problems and 7 new bouldering areas
  • Color coded entries and GPS coordinates help you choose and find your problems
  • Full-color 1st edition features multiple personal essays and breathtaking climbing photos

Autor(es): Erik Sloan and Marek Jakubowski

Fecha: 2018

número ISBN: 9781532379284

A selective guidebook describing over 750 of the very best free rock climbing routes in Yosemite Valley, from 5.4 to 5.14 (F3 to F8c), with everything from single pitch routes to 1,000m+ routes on El Cap.

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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