Ascensiones en World como Clean por Vanessa Wills

A bit damp on the first go upon slopers requiring brushing and a bit of chalk. Awkward start, nice crux sequence.

Rpt.

Whales all around. Including me on the ledge. Tried to make it harder for interest

A little seepy today

Ongoing post Covid recovery. I think this route is fun- gym bunnies it’s like climbing on volumes! A couple of laps for leg fitness

Rpt

2 laps. 55 days off rock, wrist brace on. Skin hurts, wrist seemed to survive, just avoided mantles.

Felt a bit pumped, not surprising I suppose

2 laps

Rpt, good friction today.

Rpt. My wrist is getting worse rather than better, could barely undercling or jam and it hurt abseiling-off to the physio.

Amazed I Onsighted this, so slippery today

Hard. Forgot helmet, didn’t feel like leading these spaced bolted climbs.

Rpt, feels more 22 if short.

Rpt, seems easier than last year on the mantles

Rpt.

Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.

Rpt, exit.

Had to redeem myself for the slip on Fin crack

Rpt

Rpt

The good weather day between the rain. Suffering from post vax aches and pains, but better than laying on the couch.

Rpt

Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.

Rpt

This always makes me laugh for a 19, like many of that grade here, but it’s a nice climb.

Led once then top roped it clean because I thought there were people queuing. Even mid week this place is hectic. The run out freaked me out a bit, will take some finger sized cams to lead. Much more relaxed on top rope though still pumpy. Nothing over grade 22 really, the reachy move near the second bolt is probably the crux for me, but I’m sure a red point crux will be higher.

Lead it with some falls around 3rd bolt. Then clean from 4 th bolt and too scared to fall. Repeated clean on TR as didn’t fancy the fall around arete again. A bit like a Wards hill first wall route on crimpy ironstone- so not worth travelling the world for.

Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.

Too run out for me chickened out 2 bolts from top.Had to bring in the reinforcement. The slab dyno also seems a bit hard for 6a but may be a height thing. Large wet patch that did require some foot holds in.

Well I top roped through the crux with a high first clip, though took a couple of goes. Feels a bit contrived away from some slightly better holds.

Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.

Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.

Gnarly and no protection until half height

Rpt, much nicer today after a bit of traffic. Probably should be 19

Done this a few times and the start is quite hard as is continuing up offwidth on lead. I will argue for upgrade. The start is at least a metre lower than the old days

Some offwidth practice.

Rpt, if this is the one I think it’s easier than 22, more like 20

Rpt with Mel

Rpt to put rope on weena

Rpt

Felt too tricky as the warm up, did it later in the day

Rpt to get out

Rpt, though I did sneak in a bridge up high

Rpt, cleaning

Old school 18 for sure. Good slab moves though

Brushing en route, nice and almost feels as secure as JTD these days

Ushering up the grandson and then his first abseil

Getting out at least despite feeling poorly

Yep, shoulder unhappy laybacking.

19 in a parallel universe. Always requires thinking Mc the middle part has changed over the years

With the proximity of the trees I no longer feel comfortable leading this. Feels contrived, due to how close tree is to cliff