도움

Kachoong Area Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Wendy Eden Andrew Clark Campbell Gome Douglas Hockly mark Geordie Webb Paul Badenoch Gareth Llewellin

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Kachoong Area 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

계절특성

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.750194, 141.834922

설명

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

접근 문제들

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Arapiles으로부터 상속된

윤리문제

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Arapiles으로부터 상속된
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Echo System

A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'.

Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start.

FA: Mark Witham & Michael Hartman

17 전통등반 13m
2 A Taste of Honey Direct Start

A great individual pitch or an approach to one of the other climbs.

FA: John Davis & Jim Smith, 1967

20 전통등반 13m
3 Capilano

Up wall to first horizontal break and traverse spectacularly left to arete and up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Gordon McCallum & Colin Reece, 1979

21 전통등반 25m
4 Dr. Paul and the Amazing Dancing Gnome

Start as for 'Capilano' and continue up wall with long reaches to major horizontal. Don't escape left but keep going up for a few more moves until it eases.

FA: Paul Smith & Geoff Little, 1985

21 전통등반 25m
5 One Day Hero

A better direct.

Go straight up from start of Dr Paul.

FA: Douglas Hockly & @cathdv, 2015

23 전통등반 15m
6 Golden Echo Direct

The obvious wide line through the roofs above the ledge.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman, 1974

19 전통등반 20m
7 Golden Echo Variant

This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant.

FA: John Moore, 1966

18 전통등반 25m
8 Golden Echo / The Golden Echo

Interesting climbing through some exciting territory.

FA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974

18 전통등반 25m
9 Sounds Like

A scary direct start to Golden Echo. Looks worthless but in fact has a fascinating crux section.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Nick Plishko & Robin Miller, 1982

23 R 전통등반 35m
10 Echo Chamber

Links the initial wall of Kachoong into the top of Golden Echo RHV via an exciting traverse left at the roof of Kachoong. Bring a #3 camalot for the traverse. For full value, start at the the steep crack/bulge that leads up the the belay ledge of Kachoong.

FA: Geordie Webb & Paul Deacon, 29 10월 2018

19 전통등반 30m
11 Silence is Golden

Line in between Sounds Like and Kachoong, start directly below where Kachoong is typically started, easiest to rap in from the bolts that get you to the photographer spot. Directly up the orange wall merging with Golden Echo at the left hand end of the Kachoong roof. The wall takes small medium cams, RP's and small wires. Make sure you build a good nest of gear about 4 meters before the roof, then make thin moves to the roof. Bigger gear required from the roof to the top, 0.5 to 3 Camalot.

FFA: mark, adam demmert & Geordie Webb, 3 12월 2018

24 전통등반 35m
12 Kachoong

Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay

Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977

21 혼합 고전등반 25m, 1
13 Kachoong Right Hand Variant

The original line through the roof took the little hanging corner on the right. This is worthwhile in its own right.

FA: Dave Neilson & Chris Dewhirst, 1968

21 전통등반 25m
14 Kachoong Piker's Variant

Climb to the roof (crux) and then escape out right and up easy wall.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969

19 전통등반 20m
15 Achoo

Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.

Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Gareth Llewellin, 2002

23 R 전통등반 15m
16 Ground Cummin

Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack.

FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987

18 전통등반 18m
17 Max

Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall.

FA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973

10 전통등반 15m
18 Consolation Prize

Slightly contrived face climbing between Max and 'Moritz'.

FA: Paul Francis & Nick Neagle, 1987

15 전통등반 15m
19 Moritz

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973

9 전통등반 15m
20 Santa Claus Conquers the Martians

Loads of steep traversing.

FA: Simon Mentz, Scott Camps, Jared McCulloch & Andrew Eastaugh, 1988

21 전통등반 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Mega

Start L of Hurts and climb up to join Hurts where it steps L.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2006

18 전통등반 10m
22 Hurts

Good, pumpy wall.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979

18 전통등반 18m
23 Hurt Phase link

Start for Hurts and at the obvious big block traverse int In Phase and finish up that route

전통등반
24 In Phase

Very good and very strenuous.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

23 전통등반 20m
25 Cyclic Phase

Avoids the annoying start of Cyclic and makes it into a worthwhile route, unless you are a grumpy old guidebook editor who thinks it ruins the integrity of the existing line. Up In Phase to the finger lock then step right into main line of Cyclic.

FA: Wendy Eden, @cathdv & Jess Davies, 22 5월 2017

22 전통등반
26 Cyclic

Slight corner 4 metres right of 'In Phase' then traverse 3-4 metres left, over roof and up crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

20 전통등반 20m
27 Monkey

Looks awful.

FA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973

12 전통등반 24m
28 Low-rent Rendezvous

Not the best part of town.

Start: Takes clean convex wall about 30m right of 'Hurts' Wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2000

15 전통등반 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
29 Constance Little

Nice little wall climb. Faces the same way as 'Hurts', Max and 'Moritz' but just one level below them. Appears to be a repeat of A Taste of Bin Laden.

Start: From 'Hurts', go out and drop down through the gap that leads down to Golden Echo DS and Taste of Honey. As you emerge from this chimney there is a face on the right which is undercut on its left side. Start on the right edge of the undercut.

FA: K Loughran & N Booth, 2005

14 전통등반 12m
30 A Taste of Bin Laden

Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall. Appears to be the same as Constance Little.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001

13 전통등반 10m
31 Mufti Dive

There are too many aretes in these route descriptions for the available cliff! Given the absence of any thin grey walls right of either arete, I am wondering if this is the thin grey wall left of the arete of CL's wall. It didn't have enough gear to inspire me to check out the grade. Or it may be squished in between Haiku Climbing was Super and CL.

Start: Right of the arete is a thin wall. ?????

FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 2002

21 전통등반 10m
32 Haiku

The original name was:

climbing was super

on long steep juggy arete

loose jug in my hand

Start: The steep left arete of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 2002

18 전통등반 10m
33 Taliban Airways

(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm.

Even when after climbing here with the first ascentionist, we're not sure where these routes are!

Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts. Unless this is also squished in with Constance Little, it appears to be the line on the next short wall heading directly to the belay for Kachoong. Felt a little more like 15 though.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001

12 전통등반 10m
34 ?????

Beneath Kachoong, R of ATOHDS. Up rib then corner to the belay for Kachoong.

10 전통등반 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
9 Moritz 전통등반 15m
10 ????? 전통등반 25m
Max 전통등반 15m
12 Monkey 전통등반 24m
Taliban Airways 전통등반 10m
13 A Taste of Bin Laden 전통등반 10m
14 Constance Little 전통등반 12m
15 Consolation Prize 전통등반 15m
Low-rent Rendezvous 전통등반 15m
17 Echo System 전통등반 13m
18 Golden Echo 전통등반 25m
Golden Echo Variant 전통등반 25m
Ground Cummin 전통등반 18m
Haiku 전통등반 10m
Hurts 전통등반 18m
Mega 전통등반 10m
19 Echo Chamber 전통등반 30m
Golden Echo Direct 전통등반 20m
Kachoong Piker's Variant 전통등반 20m
20 A Taste of Honey Direct Start 전통등반 13m
Cyclic 전통등반 20m
21 Capilano 전통등반 25m
Dr. Paul and the Amazing Dancing Gnome 전통등반 25m
Kachoong 혼합 고전등반 25m, 1
Kachoong Right Hand Variant 전통등반 25m
Mufti Dive 전통등반 10m
Santa Claus Conquers the Martians 전통등반 20m
22 Cyclic Phase 전통등반
23 In Phase 전통등반 20m
One Day Hero 전통등반 15m
23 R Achoo 전통등반 15m
Sounds Like 전통등반 35m
24 Silence is Golden 전통등반 35m
? Hurt Phase link 전통등반
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