A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Wendy Eden Brendan Heywood Andrew Clark Campbell Gome Douglas Hockly mark Geordie Webb Paul Badenoch Gareth Llewellin
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Kachoong Area 34 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Kachoong Area 34 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
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모두 고전등반
Lat / Long: -36.750194, 141.834922
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
설명
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area
접근 문제들
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
윤리문제
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Echo System
A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'. Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start. FA: Mark Witham & Michael Hartman | 17 | 13m | |||||
2 |
★★ A Taste of Honey Direct Start
A great individual pitch or an approach to one of the other climbs. FA: John Davis & Jim Smith, 1967 | 20 | 13m | |||||
3 |
★ Capilano
Up wall to first horizontal break and traverse spectacularly left to arete and up. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Gordon McCallum & Colin Reece, 1979 | 21 | 25m | |||||
4 |
★★ Dr. Paul and the Amazing Dancing Gnome
Start as for 'Capilano' and continue up wall with long reaches to major horizontal. Don't escape left but keep going up for a few more moves until it eases. FA: Paul Smith & Geoff Little, 1985 | 21 | 25m | |||||
5 |
★★★ One Day Hero
A better direct. Go straight up from start of Dr Paul. FA: Douglas Hockly & @cathdv, 2015 | 23 | 15m | |||||
6 |
★ Golden Echo Direct
The obvious wide line through the roofs above the ledge. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman, 1974 | 19 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★ Golden Echo Variant
This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant. FA: John Moore, 1966 | 18 | 25m | |||||
8 |
★★ Golden Echo / The Golden Echo
Interesting climbing through some exciting territory. FA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974 | 18 | 25m | |||||
9 |
★★ Sounds Like
A scary direct start to Golden Echo. Looks worthless but in fact has a fascinating crux section. FA: Kim Carrigan, Nick Plishko & Robin Miller, 1982 | 23 R | 35m | |||||
10 |
★★ Echo Chamber
Links the initial wall of Kachoong into the top of Golden Echo RHV via an exciting traverse left at the roof of Kachoong. Bring a #3 camalot for the traverse. For full value, start at the the steep crack/bulge that leads up the the belay ledge of Kachoong. FA: Geordie Webb & Paul Deacon, 29 10월 2018 | 19 | 30m | |||||
11 |
★★ Silence is Golden
Line in between Sounds Like and Kachoong, start directly below where Kachoong is typically started, easiest to rap in from the bolts that get you to the photographer spot. Directly up the orange wall merging with Golden Echo at the left hand end of the Kachoong roof. The wall takes small medium cams, RP's and small wires. Make sure you build a good nest of gear about 4 meters before the roof, then make thin moves to the roof. Bigger gear required from the roof to the top, 0.5 to 3 Camalot. FFA: mark, adam demmert & Geordie Webb, 3 12월 2018 | 24 | 35m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Kachoong
Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes. FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 21 | 25m, 1 | |||||
13 |
★★ Kachoong Right Hand Variant
The original line through the roof took the little hanging corner on the right. This is worthwhile in its own right. FA: Dave Neilson & Chris Dewhirst, 1968 | 21 | 25m | |||||
14 |
★ Kachoong Piker's Variant
Climb to the roof (crux) and then escape out right and up easy wall. FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969 | 19 | 20m | |||||
15 |
★ Achoo
Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start. Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'. FA: Douglas Hockly & Gareth Llewellin, 2002 | 23 R | 15m | |||||
16 |
★ Ground Cummin
Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack. FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987 | 18 | 18m | |||||
17 |
★ Max
Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall. FA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973 | 10 | 15m | |||||
18 |
Consolation Prize
Slightly contrived face climbing between Max and 'Moritz'. FA: Paul Francis & Nick Neagle, 1987 | 15 | 15m | |||||
19 |
★ Moritz
Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good. FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973 | 9 | 15m | |||||
20 |
Santa Claus Conquers the Martians
Loads of steep traversing. FA: Simon Mentz, Scott Camps, Jared McCulloch & Andrew Eastaugh, 1988 | 21 | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
21 |
Mega
Start L of Hurts and climb up to join Hurts where it steps L. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2006 | 18 | 10m | |||||
22 |
★★ Hurts
Good, pumpy wall. FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 18 | 18m | |||||
23 |
★ Hurt Phase link
Start for Hurts and at the obvious big block traverse int In Phase and finish up that route | |||||||
24 |
★★ In Phase
Very good and very strenuous. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 23 | 20m | |||||
25 |
★ Cyclic Phase
Avoids the annoying start of Cyclic and makes it into a worthwhile route, unless you are a grumpy old guidebook editor who thinks it ruins the integrity of the existing line. Up In Phase to the finger lock then step right into main line of Cyclic. FA: Wendy Eden, @cathdv & Jess Davies, 22 5월 2017 | 22 | ||||||
26 |
★ Cyclic
Slight corner 4 metres right of 'In Phase' then traverse 3-4 metres left, over roof and up crack. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 20 | 20m | |||||
27 |
Monkey
Looks awful. FA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973 | 12 | 24m | |||||
28 |
Low-rent Rendezvous
Not the best part of town. Start: Takes clean convex wall about 30m right of 'Hurts' Wall. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2000 | 15 | 15m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
29 |
★ Constance Little
Nice little wall climb. Faces the same way as 'Hurts', Max and 'Moritz' but just one level below them. Appears to be a repeat of A Taste of Bin Laden. Start: From 'Hurts', go out and drop down through the gap that leads down to Golden Echo DS and Taste of Honey. As you emerge from this chimney there is a face on the right which is undercut on its left side. Start on the right edge of the undercut. FA: K Loughran & N Booth, 2005 | 14 | 12m | |||||
30 |
A Taste of Bin Laden
Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall. Appears to be the same as Constance Little. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001 | 13 | 10m | |||||
31 |
Mufti Dive
There are too many aretes in these route descriptions for the available cliff! Given the absence of any thin grey walls right of either arete, I am wondering if this is the thin grey wall left of the arete of CL's wall. It didn't have enough gear to inspire me to check out the grade. Or it may be squished in between Haiku Climbing was Super and CL. Start: Right of the arete is a thin wall. ????? FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 2002 | 21 | 10m | |||||
32 |
Haiku
The original name was: climbing was super on long steep juggy arete loose jug in my hand Start: The steep left arete of the 'Taliban Airways' wall. FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 2002 | 18 | 10m | |||||
33 |
Taliban Airways
(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm. Even when after climbing here with the first ascentionist, we're not sure where these routes are! Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts. Unless this is also squished in with Constance Little, it appears to be the line on the next short wall heading directly to the belay for Kachoong. Felt a little more like 15 though. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001 | 12 | 10m | |||||
34 |
?????
Beneath Kachoong, R of ATOHDS. Up rib then corner to the belay for Kachoong. | 10 | 25m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
9 | ★ | Moritz | 15m | ||
10 | ????? | 25m | |||
★ | Max | 15m | |||
12 | Monkey | 24m | |||
Taliban Airways | 10m | ||||
13 | A Taste of Bin Laden | 10m | |||
14 | ★ | Constance Little | 12m | ||
15 | Consolation Prize | 15m | |||
Low-rent Rendezvous | 15m | ||||
17 | Echo System | 13m | |||
18 | ★★ | Golden Echo | 25m | ||
★★ | Golden Echo Variant | 25m | |||
★ | Ground Cummin | 18m | |||
Haiku | 10m | ||||
★★ | Hurts | 18m | |||
Mega | 10m | ||||
19 | ★★ | Echo Chamber | 30m | ||
★ | Golden Echo Direct | 20m | |||
★ | Kachoong Piker's Variant | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ | A Taste of Honey Direct Start | 13m | ||
★ | Cyclic | 20m | |||
21 | ★ | Capilano | 25m | ||
★★ | Dr. Paul and the Amazing Dancing Gnome | 25m | |||
★★★ | Kachoong | 25m, 1 | |||
★★ | Kachoong Right Hand Variant | 25m | |||
Mufti Dive | 10m | ||||
Santa Claus Conquers the Martians | 20m | ||||
22 | ★ | Cyclic Phase | |||
23 | ★★ | In Phase | 20m | ||
★★★ | One Day Hero | 15m | |||
23 R | ★ | Achoo | 15m | ||
★★ | Sounds Like | 35m | |||
24 | ★★ | Silence is Golden | 35m | ||
? | ★ | Hurt Phase link |