등정들 The 39 Steps에서

Just brilliant, super sustained, after attempting it last year and only recently ticking 24s, I only just made this one, don’t agree with the recent change of grade on the crag.

Bring nut for last carrot over roof

I decided today would be the day i finally got over my trad jitters and fell on gear, and fall i did. After perhaps my most valiant ever climbing effort, making it to within 5m of the top of the route on my onsight, running it out because i was too pumped to place gear, my forearms finally gave out and i took a 15+ metre whip almost all the way down to my first bit of gear. Kinda psyched to have taken my biggest ever fall as my first one on gear...

After following behind Will's mega whip, i was terrified to lead this even though most of the gear was pre-placed. The moves aren't particularly hard its just really really pumpy! With a bit more work i think it could definitely be sent, hopefully before summer!

Put on the draws and had a go which ended in another dogging session. Great climb, no stopper moves for me but very sustained. Placed a #1 DMM wallnut between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.

Understand the moves much better, but going to taje serious workshopping + fitness to put it together...

Found more gear placements this time and Sean found an extra one... not so runout at the bottom now but still a long way between up high... though there's a break for a 4/5 cam up top.

Did better than I thought I would given my lack of sleep the night before. A new high point up to the side pulls above the roof with only one rest and now have the top half wired.

Nice climb, rusty carrots are passable but in need of replacement. Loweroffs instead of carrot belay on a dodgy ledge anyone? Only one wire up high, mostly just carrots.

Working bottom part which I botched since last time...

The crux is harder than it looks. Could do with some new bolts.

I now have the top section sorted and a much easier way to do the start

New high point today to the rooflet.

Took a nice long rest after my first attempt and got the send! Ended up feeling fairly comfortable and is my hardest tick to date!

first shot of the day and got a highpoint placing the draws. Got through the crux section with some new beta but couldn't manage the pump and came off on the good crimps above.

First time on this route, just getting a feel for the moves. Managed to figure out pretty good sequences for the sustained crux

Felt really good on it, came off at the same spot, but hopped back on after a short rest Andrew got it clean to the top from there. It will go soon!

Tried to have burn on it, got to the top of the first crux section and came off, nice big whip!

Warmup

Bouldery start but only first 3 moves... then very 17ish and lovely. We only had a #4 cam and that was manageable if slightly heady without more gear. Great climbing. Fun and a good warmup. Stickclip and batman past first metre of climbing if you want 17 warmup.

With juice in tank, figured out remaining moves. Really an amazing piece of rock with so many small feet!

Lead after half height. Feel like I at least get it now

Not sure if I did HPD but seemed to be the obvious way up.

Fell my up it. Definitely need to get my fitness back.

Rpt. Felt harder than last time. I need to get climbing fit again!

Awesome rap up for the day. A balancing act. Very enjoyable climb.

super fun! A few interesting dance moves around thin crux. Need to come back

Rpt. Another good lead by Lucy. Funny - I put the first draw on for Lucy no probs. Then on second it took me three goes to get off the ground - how does that work???

Finally got rid of the dog

Ticked first shot of the day, felt so much better on it that the last time I got on. Awesome sustained crimping!

Thin crimping for dayz

Interesting slab climbing

Really good. Had a very sad fall on one of the last moves (having not expected to make it that far) when one of my feet slipped off. Really cool climbing and better than it looks.

1st shot today, 2nd redpoint burn (3rd lap) this season. I've been on this a few years ago also. Still bloody hard, but now I had it sorted, and it was just about executing and not falling off the final moves (which, though easier, are much, much thinner). A brilliant route, rubbish bolts.

Pretty gnarly in the winter shade for a warmup, but GREAT climbing! Goes a lot easier than it looks: sustained but with no real stopper moves. The finale up the corner is spectacular and challenging. Genuinely enjoyed this one.

2 more laps. 1st was a debacle trying to clean and chalk the holds (and remove a wasp nest from the crux hold), and deal with the hideously stupid equipping. 2nd shot I fell off reaching for the jug that finishes the hard climbing (with just the easier top face section to go) at the 2nd last bolt. One day I'll get around to ticking this

The general bolt spacing on this is exciting but okay (though the weird mix of original carrots and spinning fixed hangers held in by either glue-in carrots or new non-stainless bashins is a joke, especially considering the glue-in anchor at the top), but the death-runout start to the 3rd bolt is unforgivable. I will rap-in to put the gear on moving forward, I can't be arsed having the equipping epic again.

Yeah I sussed out. One of the last classic hard route to do at cosmic and I will be back. The route and the moves are rad but I need to come back with a better head space for the committing runouts...

Repeat

2 shots, first one putting the draws one. Brilliant climbing, no move is too hard - just long and sustained!