Ascents of Toyland Direct

I've wanted to do this climb ever since I saw Frothy Thompson compare it to Seize the Day in Tassie. It absolutely lived up to the hype and then some. Was able to camp out just under the roof with an awkward flared left hand thumbs down handjam and mono finger lock. Got it all back and needed it all on the top slab. So stoked to see Nath flash it straight after too!

Clean to the bolt above the "Bryden Allen move" as a warmup, then lowered. Apart from the stupid runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, this all felt pretty chill, and super fun. I forgot how good this is.

Such a good route, had to fight pretty hard at the top

Another contender for best face climb in the mountains around this grade

Interesting all the way! Very bloody sustained crimping, but the moves are all fine. Just need to keep going on the small things

Heartbreaking foot slip 2 moves before the anchors, blowing the onsight.

Only saw the nut placement when cleaning. By the time you can place it, it’s jugs to the bolt, so I would t worry too much about it

Great climb! Almost got a bit lost in the crimps up high but managed to dive across to a 'better' hold just in the nick of time 😅

Cool sustained crimps. The sun came out and I tried to camp out on tiny crimpy rests while praying for some clouds. No luck. Retreated upward. Happy to send

Second shot after getting lost on the crimps up high. Awesome route. Sustained as at the top.

3rd go. Just needed to rest well before the top and bone down.

I have mixed feelings about this one. Some great climbing all the way to the roof along the seam which then turns into ugly black slab crimpiness

Warmed up doing the onsight attempt and it almost worked but I missed a hold to the right on the slabby section towards the top and grabbed awful footholds and retreated downclimbing to good double-crimp tried to recover and went again the same way thinking it would work... Flopped on the bolt. Julie gave me the beta and I cruised to the top. Got it second shot. Most holds are amazing on this climb (except the footer that got me ;-)

Now I see what all the rave was about! Looking forward to getting back to this.

Have been on/off projecting Toyland this year and man those final moves get the better of me every time! Having cause to wonder at the condition of those smudgy crimps at the top - were they always so tenuous? At the flake I used a static reach and phoar it gets me gassed. Used a sling on the bolt above the rooflet to ease rope drag and help clipping. It certainly feels like the classic it is but have now moved on to others in the area (Aesthetic Images..) Maybe down the track, I'll rise to the challenge.

Amazing and technical. Will be working on this

Lives up to the hype!

the 2021 toyland froth train has left the station. bolt to bolt to warm up. pretty pleased i got to the top without any drama, already an improvement from my go last season

linked first 5 bolts, 3 bolts after, then basically bolt to bolt to the top (except last bolt before anchors). gonna have to work out how to rest and be more efficient

training lap. need to work out better beta between bolt 2 + 3 but the rest feels pretty nice

good old fashioned struggle. reachy, technical, and sustained. so yummy

Another lucky send Super thin on the top.

Face climbing at its best! Fell after 3rd last draw on onsight att. Sent next go.

felt surprisingly good. good to finally set hands and feet on this climb after hearing about the beta for literally hours

felt surprisingly spicy on lead

Still amazing. Still need fitness. Still need to milk the rests.

Bolt-to-bolt remembering the moves after a good two years.

Felt good on TR so I might be OK to start trying properly now.

FINALLY actually got on this. Three(?) sits on the flash attempt. Really fun! Turns out the dyno doesn't need to be a dyno if you're my size. Will definitely be back.

I still can't believe I managed to stick the crimp hold before the final jugs! Stocked!

Fifth 25 in one month! Woo!

2/3 the on the way, fell on the start of the crux. The climb gets harder the higher you go!