등정들 Strangeness and Charm의

Climbed via wailing cockatoos. Great day out!

Brilliant and engaging all the way. A bit of a sandbag, especially for someone not practiced in committing run out climbing. Stopped at the bathtub

Gave this a pretty decent brush, including the very nice top pitch. Also sorted out the rope snagging obstacles on the rap out of the hole.

Started via Wailing Cockatoo. Loved p3, and grateful it hadn’t rained recently, because the bath was dry. Finished up Wailing Cockatoo Direct Finish

Took a double rack, and regretted it. I think I placed two cams, and never touched anything except my offset nuts and 1 hex.

Were here on school camp with newy state high. Some genuinely delightful company from the gang over dinner and a refreshingly selfie heavy camera roll after leaving my phone on the can this morning. Wow i really got off track here. We got to the climb after yim and i somehow lost eachother on the canyon approach. The local 18R made for a very intreguing p1, was very stoked with my first 'nut stack' placement. I was reminded of how yim actually did this purely from improvisation on only his 3rd trad multi a year ago. I have decided that limestone is honest froth fuel and that laybacking is infact mandatory. Rattly jams: optiona.. a bad idea. Yeah. 3 pitches of beaut, p4 decent, p5 trash, bailed, downclimbed and rapped off. Climbed the wailing cockatoo direct start afterwards, feeling pretty good about myself and well.. that cockatoo ate my lunch, drank my beer and took my girl to the movies. Gear stashed for evolution and a nice hike out via the opposite side of the gorge ft. a lovely smelling cave.

Foooweee, what a big day. Alpine start as it was our first time here and road from the rangers office was closed. River was pretty full so stripped to the nuddie to get across under the big first overhangs on south wall. Managed to identify the route well by standing on the opposite bank. Led all the pitches, ---BETA--- take slings for the threads. No gear bigger than a #2 cam in pitches 2-4 (though I did use a blue and yellow DMM torque hex in pitch 1 I think?). Found the crux on pitch 4 harder, balanced up to the jug with tiny nubins for fingers. The bathtub is more like a Jacuzzi! Raps are clean so long as you don't try to skip any stations with a cheeky double. Not a huge fan of slab but it's hard not to like this! The experience was topped off with a chopper flying by us through the gorge. Didn't do the last pitch as it was soaked so went up the first pitch of wailing cockatoo direct finish. Huge walk out carrying two abandoned ropes draping the wall.

What a classic, hadn't climbed outdoors since Jan, so it was quite a come back. Nick absolutely killed all pitches and led the way. Even though I was seconding didn't fell much easier, the views are incredible. We also made the mistake of getting the rope stuck, so gotta go back to retrieve it. 1st and 2nd pitches were spicy for an 18, super technical for me and some interesting moves. 3rd pitch I misread the move and went too much to the left, figured it out on second try and finished it. 4th pitch got a bit pumped and confused, but also figured it on second try.

Olly and Bec's first trad leads . We climbed in two parties and rapped off together. Despite two of us having done the raps before, we did it wrong, got the ropes stuck and had to re-climb it the next day to retrieve them...

Fantastic Route! every ptich has high quality and interesting climbing. the last pitch is definitely worth doing although the 'dusty grove' becomes a slick wet grove after rain but can be avoided without much trouble.

Only did p1&2, absolutely brilliant climbing, probably my funnest trad lead so far, with really cool creative placements. Will definitely come back to take this to the top if I ever decide maybe suffering the walkout once wasn’t enough.

Only did first 2 pitches

Great trad - mixed route! Climbed this is one of my first (harder) trad multipitch. Should cone back to climb it all the way clean!

Came back to clean up the 3rd pitch. All went smooth with 3 nice friends after the hangers (2/3,1,.75) untill exiting the crack left foot slipped. Darn.. (beta: after last side pull left foot goes real high and Rock over then next side pull out left) then a solid 0.4 friend in vertical slit. Tried it again but this time slipped at start.. But then linked it clean from under the hangers to the anchors which felt good! Next time for the full tick!

Lead 1 and 3. Could do with a cleanup of old fixed gear; the second belay has six bolts! Stout, well protected crux pitches, slightly spicy but reasonable easier pitches. On the second pitch it'd probably be better to skip the hanging belay off the bolts and build a trad anchor 5-10m up pitch 3 (easy climbing).

We took double totems(!) .3-1, a single black totem, and camalots 2 and 3, double nuts including some micros, three 120cm slings, and forgot a bolt plate (it's useful once on pitch 4). This was mostly overkill except perhaps on pitch one. Finger-size pro was generally pretty handy.

Wow.. What a route.. What a place! Took a bit of adjusting as I have little experience in limestone.. then throw in some runnouts and fiddling with gear and you have an epic day out for sure!! Every pitch had excelent climbing! Thought provoking limestone adventure.. P3 crux, as mentioned, sure was stout and the crux of the multi.

Needed one take for a rest and to place some safer gear after backing down from the crux of the 3rd pitch. Flashed all other pitches seconding up. We needed to rap before the last pitch due to the time (apparently many do this anyway) but would like to come back to get the whole thing clean and send the final pitch.

With Cam from QLD. An ALMOST-bold classic with an old-school mentality: mostly trad wtih a few spaced bolts, a tad wandery, run-out but not TOO run out. Great! O/S Pitches 1, 3 and 5; 2nd Clean 2 and 4. Stoked with the pitches I got to lead. The traverse on P2 isn't as scary as it looks. P3 is the crux for sure, and comprises a nice sustained awkward crack-outing. P5 doesn't seem to see much traffic and was dirty and a bit obscure, but was actually great climbing.

Estimate late 1999. cold! lead all pitches clean.

Awesome pity about the shit fight with the bolts and chopping. Could do with a rebolt and plug of all the chopped shit. In some places they have chopped the new ones and left the old shit!!!! WTF????? Clean it up, rebolt (not retro) it properly and this would be a mega classic. Bit sad with all the mess.

Awesome! Started up Wailing Cockatoo, then OS P3 and P4. P4 was one hard move, but easy in general. P3 was harder and more sustained.

Sometime in 2011 I think. Popped off on the second last pitch unfortunately. What a great route!

Wussed out from leading the 3rd & 4th pitches, handing the reins to oliver.

Led P1 and 3. First tricam. Bad shoes. With Rich.

Led 1 and 3. First tricam!. Bad shoes. with Rich

onsight 1st&3rd pitch,1 sit seconding 4th