등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 질 | 등반가 | |||
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토요일 8번째 6월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★ Up the Nose of Love
![]() | 35m, 7 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Veered off right to tree and rapped.
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21 |
★★ Bad to the Bone
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Climbs better than it looks
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금요일 7번째 6월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Six Days on the Toad
![]() | 28m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Amazing climbing in an amazing setting. This outcrop feels pretty special
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금요일 7번째 6월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Cool features up this one!
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17 |
★ Kersplat
![]() | 15m, 3 | |||||
Much easier than the other 17
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17 |
★ Space Invaders
![]() | 20m, 4 | |||||
Almost decked-out getting to second
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토요일 27번째 4월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
Great revenge after a few years. Similar to my first attempt, my feet were still painful afterwards
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19 |
★★ Spare the Hammer
![]() | 15m, 4 | |||||
Really fun even though it is hard to trust the rock in some places as everything sounds shallow.
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21 |
★★ Dick Whittington
![]() | 15m, 2 | |||||
Multiple attempts on the initial boulder. The feet are so slippery, ended up going slightly left with a weird feet sequence
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19 |
Save the Whale
![]() | 10m, 1 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Very intimidating to get to the first carrot!
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금요일 26번째 4월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Classic proper slab climbing, all in the feet
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17 |
★ Space Invaders
![]() | 20m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
foot slipped just off the deck on o/s
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화요일 23번째 4월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 |
★ Les Grandes Courses
![]() | 10m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Came back for this one, felt significantly easier than last time! .5-6 cams used. Doubles of #4.
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토요일 16번째 3월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 |
★ Les Grandes Courses
![]() | 10m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Great little crack with almost every size cam. Had a little fall at the bulge.
Bring doubles of 4s and 5s for the top.
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화요일 5번째 3월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★ Up the Nose of Love
![]() | 35m, 7 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
To finish went straight up the groove, placed two bits in the average crack and belayed off a small tree, poxy bush and average cam. Just didn't feel like following more bolts up the arete. Was this the original sortie naturelle?
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14 ~15 |
★ Sitting Pretty
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Following Haily's able onsight
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17 ~16 |
★ Blue Train
![]() | 20m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Following Haily's able onsight
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일요일 11번째 2월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★ Jagusch Putsch
![]() | 30m, 4 | 평균 | ||||
Could not crack the start so came in from HdL and took a couple of rests at thr crux.
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23 |
Hotel du Lac
![]() | 30m, 4 | 평균 | ||||
Dunno how Andrew did it but dogged thru the crux in the manner Jeff indicated, which seemed quite unsatisfactory
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17 ~16 |
★ Blue Train
![]() | 20m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Yes it is several grades easier than it's neighbour
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21 |
★★ Bad to the Bone
![]() | 20m, 6 | 평균 | ||||
Just held a slipped foot and avoided hanging on the arete for a spicier finish, aided but not abetted by the thin red line.
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21 |
★★ Bad to the Bone
![]() | 20m, 6 | 평균 | ||||
Expected to find repudiation in place of redemption but not.
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일요일 28번째 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★ Chain Mail Crack
![]() | 15m | |||||
Great to see the thrutchmaster in action sending this bloody thing. Hang dogged the crap out of it with absolutely no dignity.
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21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
Struggled hard and retreated. The sharp crimps were destryong my fingers as well as my poor toes, disappointed.
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21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
At least can claim top rope revenge! Felt pretty sustained the all way.
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일요일 28번째 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Fuzzy Navel
![]() | 75m | |||||
Super fun slab, a bit run out on top but relatively easy climbing
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일요일 28번째 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | |||||
First attenpt on top rope to gain slabfidence
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18 |
★ Scuds over Saudi
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Friction suddenly blew up, slipped off then had to struggle to stay on.
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18 |
★ Scuds over Saudi
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Clean first shot
|
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20 ~21 |
★ Mortal Combat
![]() | 18m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Aided thru crux then clean, at least 2 grades harder than Bloodbath. Start could be dyno.
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19 |
★★ Spare the Hammer
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Almost slipping off
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토요일 27번째 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Sharp crimps.
|
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21 어려움 |
★★ Chain Mail Crack
![]() | 15m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Stoked to get this clean. Had to fight big time.
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토요일 27번째 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
18 쉬움 |
★★★ Fuzzy Navel
![]() | 75m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Done as a long single pitch. Awesome line 👌
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20 |
★★★ Six Days on the Toad
![]() | 28m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Real good slabbing
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토요일 27번째 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 ~19 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Mountains was a bit misty/foggy/rainy but evans delivered again with beautiful dry granite slabbing for the day. Nice warmup
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일요일 14번째 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
There are curently 8 bolts for the route and 2 for the anchor. Not sure if this route has recently been retro-bolted but the route is a mixture of rusted bolts on SMC hangers, and new stainless bolts on Madrock hangers.
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일요일 7번째 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★ Bad to the Bone
![]() | 20m, 6 | 평균 | ||||
A giant dog - what a bog!
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18 |
★ Jailbreak from H-Block
![]() | 33m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Delicate start then super-highstep. Sport climbers will be stick-clipping in droves.
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16 |
★ Optem Bop
![]() | 30m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
High step, grade not much different from neighbour
|
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18 |
★ Jika Jika
![]() | 30m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
A bit humid
|
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14 ~15 |
★ Sitting Pretty
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Smeary slabbiness on cooling rock
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월요일 제 1 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Nice edge slabbing. Few sharp crimpy holds but rather trust the feet. If you enjoyed this definitely get on Six Days on the Toad around the corner.
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21 어려움 |
★★ Chain Mail Crack
![]() | 15m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
After a day of excellent slabbing figured we finish it off with a fist crack. Start is strenuous and burly but it eases off once you got good feet. Will be back to try this again.
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20 ~19 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Good edge slabbing.
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19 |
★ Jonestown
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
First top rope solo.
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월요일 제 1 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
18 쉬움 |
★★★ Fuzzy Navel
![]() | 75m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Wasn't quite sure where the start was but picked the cleaniest crack+slab line that'd get us up to a DBB just right of a gorgeous slabby arete which I assumed was P2. Great slabbing on P2, all FHs but bring 2 plates for top.
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20 |
★★★ Six Days on the Toad
![]() | 28m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Fantastic slabbing. No trad gear required. Favourite climb of the day.
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20 |
★★★ Six Days on the Toad
![]() | 28m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Surprised myself to be able to follow Mr M's excellent onsight.
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월요일 제 1 1월 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Despite having last year clocked up just under 61,000m of vertical ascent (up stairs and bush trails, sadly not rock climbs) the mental rigours of slab climbing seemed to benefit little from aerobic or indeed physical capacity. After several strained moments staring at a pathetic indentation or crystal flake wondering if it could hold a foot or other appendage, one generally retires, shattered, with a well-worn mantra pounding through an overloaded frontal cortex: "These slabs are definitely doing my head in".
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20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Far easier in the sticky Mad Rocks.
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20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
In the new blue Salewa approach shoes for NYD, which, thanks to the innovative Switchfit system and Pomoca sole, permitted a relative upgrade from 19 to 20, toprope notwithstanding.
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수요일 27번째 12월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★ Scuds over Saudi
![]() | 15m, 4 | |||||
Mossy choosy wet slabby adventure
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19 |
★★ Spare the Hammer
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Very nice slabbing
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수요일 6번째 12월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Like the proverbial possums up a pole
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20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Definitely easier than the two on the right because of the more definite edges
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19 |
★ Greenies' Delight
![]() | 15m, 5 | 평균 | ||||
Tenuosity amid the lichen.
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19 |
★ Jonestown
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Smears ...
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토요일 28번째 10월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 어려움 |
★★ Chain Mail Crack
![]() | 15m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Real good
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토요일 14번째 10월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 |
★ Les Grandes Courses
![]() | 10m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Maybe La Petite Course would be more appropriate… though it is grand with a little bit of almost every crack size in its short length… Stout start that quickly eases, good fun …
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토요일 7번째 10월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
The West Side Ridge | |||||||
19 |
★★ Spot the Brain Cell
![]() | 15m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Didn’t spot it …?? Definitely licheny and somewhat hard at the grade because of that … quite the task for my feet… bit of rope weirdness saw me not wanting to take a pendulum fall at the crux after cleaning final gear … Almost pitched off but managed to grab rope and use a 2 second tension move to avoid catastrophe before thrutching to glory …
Would be quite different if you could see more of the rock when necessary…
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16 R |
★ Split Cwym Boulder
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Probably not the best for people with dodgy ankles or feet.. but really quite challenging fun… still a bit put off by potential pendulum falls but managed to avoid it …. Really lichened top out …
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월요일 2번째 10월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★ Jailbreak from H-Block
![]() | 33m, 3 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Nice slabbing. Runouts are not that bad on this one. Definitely easier than Jika Jika
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18 |
★ Jika Jika
![]() | 30m, 4 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
took a couple of falls at the first bolt looking for the non existent footholds. Very relieving jug just before the second bolt. Nice introduction to granite
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17 |
★★ Up the Nose of Love
![]() | 35m, 7 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
lovely climbing. Cruxy moves coming over the bulge. Climbed this to access the top of the crag. Watched the sun set up there and was beautiful. This is a sport climb with some carrots and some fixed hangers. Dont know why its listed as trad
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토요일 2번째 9월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Good to climb this one after getting rained off belaying Paul on it a couple of years ago! Great sustained slabbing.
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21 |
★★ Chain Mail Crack
![]() | 15m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
After faffing around with gear and moves off the belay, made it up after pulling on for real. Had me puffing, glad to have the leather crack gloves. Good example of thuggy widish crack style.
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토요일 2번째 9월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
21 |
★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers
![]() | 28m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Lots of nice little holds in a nice angle!
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토요일 2번째 9월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
One hell of a remind on how to climb slab. Maybe should have started on something a little more chill to remember my shoes work
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21 |
★★ Chain Mail Crack
![]() | 15m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Not bad if you’re into that kind of thing.
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토요일 2번째 9월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
18 쉬움 |
★★★ Fuzzy Navel
![]() | 75m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Absolutely epic, must do. Goes in 1 pitch on a trimmed 70.
Thought we were on bilbo doing the left variant (didn’t really read well, just went for the best looking line). A lot of concern about running out of rope, but we made it. |
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20 |
★★★ Six Days on the Toad
![]() | 28m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Nowhere near as hard as it looks, super fun. Probably should be marked as a sport, the only gear is very optional
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21 |
★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers
![]() | 28m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Last route for the day, more quality slabbing.
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일요일 27번째 8월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Bad to the Bone
![]() | 20m, 6 | 평균 | ||||
Definitely easier than Jagusch Putsch and a few too many bolts. Wrong shoes.
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23 |
Hotel du Lac
![]() | 30m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Came looking for a hard slab project but shut down and had to aid thru perplexing definite non-slab crux. Several bomber small-med cams in lower crack, bolts at and beyond crux, then two 20ft leadouts up grade 10-12 lichen slab between rusty carrots. Definitely happy days.
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21 |
★ Jagusch Putsch
![]() | 30m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Three grade 21 cruxes at each of 3 lower bolts, much harder than 'Bad to the Bone'. Upper low angle groove has places for probably offset RPs and one <10mm cam. Stick-clip lower FH at 5m or leave the whole thing to lichen. No wonder the punters are avoiding this in droves.
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16 |
★ SB#2
![]() | 6m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Finally something clean in the goofy shoes.
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21 |
SB#3
![]() | 5m, 2 | 평균 | ||||
Pulled thru first move, some kind of campus rockover. Rest much like the others.
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일요일 30번째 7월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Six Days on the Toad
![]() | 28m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Utterly gripping. Felt safe once I clipped the anchor.
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20 |
★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Really liked this one. Climbed the route to the left first (21-ish?) and equipped some long slings on the bolts to reduce runouts. Two or three grades easier than Six Days on the Toad
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일요일 30번째 7월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Rpt, really nice
|
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19 ~18 |
★ Jonestown
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Much better than scuds, or did I think that because it was easier??
|
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18 |
★ Scuds over Saudi
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
A rude welcome back to tarana. A healthy runout + small footers + no holds = fear
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일요일 2번째 7월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★ Jagusch Putsch
![]() | 30m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Shoe testing session. I imagine this would be pretty gripping on lead.
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23 |
Hotel du Lac
![]() | 30m, 4 | 평균 | ||||
Failed to do the crux despite many attempts, lol. Slabs.
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일요일 2번째 7월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Bloodbath
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Shoe testing session. Liked this one.
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19 |
★ Jonestown
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Shoe testing session.
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21 |
★★ Dick Whittington
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Shoe testing session.
|
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17 |
★ Kersplat
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Shoe testing session.
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토요일 3번째 6월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
16 |
★ Optem Bop
![]() | 30m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Tricky highstep over bulge
|
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토요일 27번째 5월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★ Space Invaders
![]() | 20m, 4 | |||||
Trivial
|
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19 |
★ Madonnas
![]() | 15m | |||||
I was disappointed. Expected hard, spicy, lichen slab, with questionable bolts. Got trivial slabbing with more bolts than necessary.
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19 |
Save the Whale
![]() | 10m, 1 | |||||
A few goes to get the start, then cruisey
|
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13 |
Deft
![]() | 8m | |||||
Quite nice, less lichen on this one
|
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12 |
Blunt Stick
![]() | 8m | |||||
Nice
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일요일 7번째 5월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
22 |
★ This One's for Evelyn
![]() | 25m, 2 | |||||
Felt exactly as described, still not 100% if this was the route or not, done alot of cleaning on the second pitch, glad I hauled up the number 4 and 5 cam
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일요일 23번째 4월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
The Northern Slabs | |||||||
12 |
Headache
![]() | 20m | 평균 | ||||
Well I guess this was it, exacerbated by the worn approaches, despite only a few 12 moves at the top which became steeper and more lichenous after the clean rough lower central section of 4-6.
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토요일 15번째 4월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
Slipped off the first move a few times, then went from the ground. Awesome pitch
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토요일 15번째 4월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Righty
![]() | 25m, 4 | |||||
Again slipped off the first move then from the ground. Really nice rock
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토요일 8번째 4월 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★ Space Invaders
![]() | 20m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Did the hard bits, I think, but not being able to reach the 4th carrot from the good stance was the last straw for me friable nerves. Really fun style… but different.
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