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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
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The Carpet | |||||
13 | Waxing Lyrical
Start: An off-width left-hand corner crack.
FA: J. Friend & R. Thomas, 1978 | 55m, 2 | |||
18 | Deceit
Start: Overhung crack line opposite ‘Country Bumpkin’. Up crack trending to offwidth. FA: Paul Bayne & E. Sharpe, 1980 | 20m | |||
8 | Use Your Face as an Ashtray
Start: Some 30m left of ‘Deceit’ on terrace.
FA: Brian Birchall & beginners, 1983 | 50m, 2 | |||
16 | Bladerunner
Start: At the very top of the cliff above the finish of ‘Use Your Face As An Ashtray’ Up wall to right of crack to huge flake, around flake to top. FA: Brian Birchall & John Lattanzio, 1983 | 10m | |||
15 | Heads You Lose
Start: on the terrace where the second pitch of ‘Nicomodes’ starts. At a small alcove l0m left of ‘Use Your Face As An Ashtray’. Up right to large shrubby ledge, left on easy ground and up to some runners. Up trending right, keeping right of slight headwall to trees. FA: John Lattanzio & beginners, 1983 | 50m | |||
16 | Nicomodes
Start: to the right of the small gully just right of ‘Xerxes’.
FA: R. Thomas & J. Friend (alt leads), 1978 | 65m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★★ Xerxes
Start: The outstanding thin edged right hand hanging flake, with a perpetual wet streak at it the start. Up wall to thin part of flake, up flake to trees. FA: J. Friend & R. Thomas, 1978 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Endless Vacation
Start: On the ledge above 'Xerxes'. Either do 'Xerxes' or a double abseil from the top.
FA: Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1988 | 85m, 2, 8 | |||
22 | ★★ Nightmare on Elm Street
Start: 12-15m right of ‘Xerxes’, a flake 1m high.
FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988 | 95m, 3, 7 | |||
21 | ★★★ The Perfect Crime
Start: A few metres left of ’Nightmare on Elm Street’. Up slab past 10 bolts to chains. Rap off or finish up ‘Flesh Dance’. FA: Wade Fairly & and Party, 1989 | 40m, 10 | |||
21 | ★ High Tide
Start: About 4m left of ‘The Perfect Crime’. Up slab going slightly leftwards down low and then back right up higher to steeper ground. Up steep wall then straight up above over easier ground to chain belay of ‘The Perfect Crime’. 5 bolts on route. Abseil off or continue up ‘The Perfect Crime’. FA: Mark Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1993 | 40m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ The Commitment
2m right of ‘Flesh Dance’. Up to very thin flake (BR), then head right and up to the top of the flake to a second bolt. Continue up the corner (some natural protection is needed for this section) then clip bolt, step left and up steep head wall. Another bolt then easier ground to the chains of ‘The Perfect Crime’. Gear required: 6 bolt plates and quickdraws, #6 rock, & #2 friends. FA: Gavin Dean & Al Stephens, 1993 | 40m, 6 | |||
19 | ★★ Flesh Dance
Take 7 quick-draws and bolt plates and no other gear for this. Start: 12m left of ‘Nightmare on Elm Street’. A slabby lay away that leads to a steep wall.
FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1989 | 98m, 3, 7 | |||
19 | ★★ Rogue Roman
Start: 6m right of ‘Darius’, a diagonal crack.
FA: John Lattanzio, Tim Ball, Greg Pritchard, Brian Birchall & Graham Stuart, 1996 | 90m, 4, 8 | |||
14 | Darius
Start: Towards the middle of the slabs, a rightward trending crack, heavily vegetated.
FA: Brian Birchall & Phil Prior (alt leads), 1976 | 70m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★★ Wolf Tracks
Start: Solo up ‘Darius’ for 4m till the first ledge.
FA: Russell (Chunder) Chudliegh & Tim (Tadpole) Ball, 1985 | 70m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Autofellatio
Start: The brown water streak 2m right of the corner 'Don't Knock the Rock'. Abseil in from a tree marked by a cairn, to the obvious ledge.
FA: John Lattanzio, Tim Ball & Russel Chudleigh, 1985 | 35m, 3 | |||
16 | Don’t Knock the Rock
Not the name of a song, a word of advice! Start: At the base of a crack-chimney about 6m to the left of ‘Darius’.
FA: Bob Killip, Astrud Killip & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 60m | |||
24 | ★★★ Carrot Power
Start: about 3m right of ‘The Last Laugh’ on block. Step off the block and up right, then back left to first bolt. Up through overlap and second bolt, then trend right past 2 more bolts then up and back left to ledge. Scramble left along ledge to chains atop of ‘The Last Laugh’. FA: Russell (Chunder) Chudliegh, Tim (Tadpole) Ball & John Lattanzio, 1985 | 35m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★★ The Last Laugh
“The last laugh should last forever”. Start: The steep slab about 5m down right from ‘Moral Decline’. Marked and with a bolt anchor at the start. Up the slab past 4 bolt runners to chains on the ledge. FA: Mark Colyvan & John Lattanzio, 1990 | 25m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Lust Bucket
Start: 2m right of ‘Moral Decline’. Up past 3 bolts to hanging block, move left to belay. FA: John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1985 | 25m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Moral Decline
Start: 2m right of ‘Post Crypt’ at the left-hand end of ‘The Carpets’. Marked. Step off the blocks, up the slab past 3 bolts to the alcove at the top. Walk off left. FA: John Lattanzio, Andrew Collins & Russell Chudleigh, 1985 | 20m, 3 | |||
20 | Xenophon
Start: 1m right of ‘Post Crypt’ corner. The first water streak. Straight up the water streak past 4 bolts, using a few edges on either side till the last bolt, then padding to the top. (#2 & #3 friends for belay in alcove). Walk off left. FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas & Mike Farnworth, 1986 | 20m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Post Crypt
Not a bad route if you ignore the second pitch and walk off leftwards after the corner. Start: at the prominent corner at the left-hand end of the slabs.
FA: Joe Friend & Brian Birchall, 1978 | 34m, 2 | |||
16 | Stop in the Name of Love
Start: A few metres up and left of ‘Post Crypt’. Marked. Up the left side of the arete past 4 carrot bolts to a tree belay. Walk off. FFA: Mark Colyvan, Joanna Monaghan & Greg Pritchard, 1986 | 20m, 4 | |||
10 | Flakey Pastry
Start: A clean black strip up the low angle slabs up and left of ‘Stop In The Name Of Love’ on the Persian Carpets. About 15m right of ‘Ataxerxes’. Up the black strip of slab with no protection. FA: Russell Chudleigh, 1985 | 35m | |||
12 | Ataxerxes
Start: At the far left of the slabs (broken slabby area). An obvious leaning crack.
FA: Brian Birchall & Jill Kelman (alt leads), 1976 | 50m, 2 | |||
The Rug | |||||
12 | ★ Plus Tasmania
Buy one of these and you get absolutely free, air-conditioning, cassette/radio, 12 months supply of petrol, a block of flats on the Gold Coast... .plus Tasmania! Start: The most left-hand route on the cliff, 5m left of ‘Look Ma No Hands’. Up the ledges (wire placements) to a bolt runner. Up the slab to the South coast of Tasmania (friends and small wires). Over the overlap via Launceston, then straight up past Burnie to a short steep wall, then to top. FA: Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988 | 20m, 1 | |||
21 | Look Ma No Hands
A good route spoilt only by a chipped hold.Take 4 bolt plates, a 1½ friend and a 4 friend. Start: About 4m left of 'Skid Row'. Mantle up ledges, then delicately up the ramp, then straight up the water streak, finishing up the last moves of 'Country Bumpkin'. FA: L. Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988 | 30m, 4 | |||
22 | Skid Row
Another good slab spoilt by a chippie. Take 4 bolt plates and #2,#3,#4 friends Start: Left of ‘Country Bumpkin (about 15m), the water streak slab.
FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988 | 40m, 2, 4 | |||
17 | ★★★ Country Member
“I’m a country member.” - “Yeah I remember”. The direct line to the layback of ‘Country Bumpkin’. Start: A few metres right of ‘Skid Row’.
FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988 | 40m, 2, 5 | |||
14 | ★★ Country Bumpkin
Start: At almost the very base of the descent gully.
FA: Joe Friend & Richard Thomas, 1978 | 60m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Salad Days
Shit Hot! Take 3 bolt plates and some small friends and wires. Start:5m right of ‘Country Member’s’ last pitch. Abseil in to tree. Up water streak slab, step up onto the arête, then up the arête / slab past 3 bolt runners and a wire placement to the top. FA: L. Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988 | 15m, 3 | |||
13 | Scabby
Don’t bother. Start: About 3m right of ‘Country Bumpkin’.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Ed Sharpe, 1981 | 65m, 3 | |||
15 | Lay Back and Enjoy It
Start: Below and about 5m right of ‘Country Bumpkin’. A deep, wide crack on a low angled face.
FA: Al Stephens & E. Sharpe, 1980 | 60m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★ Psycho Therapy
Start: Abseil in to the ledge beside ‘Lay Back and Enjoy It’. Approx 4m right of ‘Salad Days’. Up the wall between ‘Layback and Enjoy It’ and ‘Reefer Madness’ past 3 bolts then step left onto ledge. Straight up from the ledge past another 4 bolt runners to the top tree belay. FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988 | 45m, 7 | |||
16 | ★★★ Reefer Madness
Start: About 5m right of ’Psycho Therapy’. Up the slab/wall past 6 bolt runners, going slightly rightwards in the middle section and back left a little near the top. FA: L. Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988 | 45m, 6 |
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