등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Jungle Gym | |||||
13 | Calling Hop Harrigan
More or less climbs the middle of the black wall right of the pinnacle. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Ian Ravenscroft, 1989 | 20m | |||
16 | Varicose Vines
The good section is too short. Start: Start about 8 metres right of "Calling Hop Harrigan" on the right arete of the face at a little yellow groove. FA: Chris Baxter & Ian Ravenscroft, 1988 | 20m | |||
18 | Varicose Vines Double Bypass
Straightens out "Varicose Vines" FA: Graeme Smith, Glenn Donohue & Peter Cunningham, 1994 | 20m | |||
23 | Jungle Juice
Climb the flake crack, which rises up to the left, to a rounded, mossy exit. Start: Start 25 metres right of "Varicose Veins" below a tiny recessed wall with a roof above and a large conifer in front. FA: Simon Mentz & Ian Ravenscroft, 1989 | 8m | |||
14 | Suspended Animation
A major line at the left end of the cliff. The start is undercut by a cave. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1988 | 20m | |||
19 | ★★ Storm In A D-Cup
The attractive crack 15 metres right of "Suspended Animation". FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Simon Mentz & Ian Ravenscroft, 1989 | 28m | |||
18 | ★★ The Wreckery
Sustained jamming up a beautiful diagonal crack on smooth rock. FA: Chris Baxter & Ian Ravenscroft, 1988 | 30m | |||
18 | ★ The Wreckery Direct
Instead of traversing left and joining up with 'Storm' In A D-Cup at 15m keep climbing the face directly above, eventually heading slightly right up short diagonal flake to top. Makes the route a lot more sustained. | 28m | |||
17 | Circumcision Ritual
The line right of "The Wreckery" at the right-hand end of the face. FA: Simon Mentz, Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Ian Ravenscroft, 1989 | 22m | |||
23 | ★ Hang Me High
Blunt arete with 2 fixed hangers left of "The Bounty Hunter" ? which is where? FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002 | 18m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Geoffs Arete A
FA: Geoff Butcher | 20m | |||
16 | ★ The Tour
Black slab on right side of dark gully around left of "Hang Me High" FA: Neil Monteith, Geoff Butcher & Marten Blumen, 2001 | 20m, 1 | |||
21 | ★ Dju Dju
Nice thin grey face situated on block near the top of "Jungle Gym". FA: Marcel Geelan, Geoff Butcher & Neil Monteith, 2002 | 15m, 2 | |||
23 | Pussy Whipped Wuss
Start in the left-hand corner at the base of the main corner. Move right at overhang into main corner and continue to stance. Now crack in left wall past big block. FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1993 | 32m | |||
6 | Waggy Tail
Worthless. Start off big block against cliff. FA: Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw, 1993 | 40m | |||
15 | Sniffer Dog
Pull into corner then climb the centre of the juggy right wall. Start: Left again is another big undercut corner. FA: Geoff Butcher & Rhyl Shaw, 1993 | 25m | |||
19 | The Bounty Hunter
Apparently cool gritstone climbing. Haven't been able to find a description so location is guesswork. FA: Geoff Butcher, 2001 | 20m, 1 | |||
14 | Juggernaut
Boulder start up large buttress leaning in front of cliff. Step across void onto the orange wall. Move diagonally left towards arete and up. Start: Start on the first buttress up and about 50 metres right of "Circumcision Ritual" FA: Peter Cunningham, Graeme Smith & Glenn Donohue, 1994 | 25m | |||
20 | Just Left Of The Stump
Remote. Might even be in The Labryinth. Start: Start about 30-40 metres right of "Juggernaut", slightly up a broad gully and a few metres right of a tight, short chimney. FA: Glenn Donohue, Graeme Smith & Peter Cunningham, 1994 | 20m | |||
Mount Cactus | |||||
16 X | The Scream
A bold, strong lead up the outstanding crack line at the left end of the huge cave.
FA: Andy Long, Gordon Talbett (alt) & james McIntosh, 1994 | 60m, 2 | |||
16 | Untitled Route
Well to the right of the huge cave and below the slabs of the descent route, is a steep band of rock leading up and left. FA: James McIntosh, Gordon Talbett & Andy Long, 1994 | 25m | |||
Generation Gap | |||||
15 | Dracula's Blood
Steep, juggy climbing and some disconcerting rock. Start: Start at right-hand end of cliff at obvious flake ramp sweeping up right. FA: Melanie & James McIntosh, 1991 | 45m | |||
17 | On For Young And Old
OK but some poor rock. Start: Scramble 5 metres up the ramp above "Dracula's Blood" to belay.
FA: Steve Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1989 | 45m, 2 | |||
21 R | ★★ Don Quixote
Great but both pitches are bold and require drive. Start: Start right of the huge wall, where a smooth wall rises out of the forest.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991 | 60m, 2 | |||
23 R | ★★ Cervantes Wall
Takes the smooth convex wall left of "Don Quixote", starting by the shady gum tree.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks (alt) & Norm Booth, 1992 | 55m, 2, 1 | |||
24 X | ★★ Tilting At Windmills
A grand route with solid climbing well out from runners. Start: Start at the left end of the long ledge under the main wall, under a small flake high up.
FA: Mark Hopkins & Keith Lockwood (alt), 1992 | 70m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Baltic City
Head up right to a bush, up thin crack, left along break to a bolt, then straight up past another bolt and the left edge of the crater. Start: Start about 20 metres left of "Tilting At Windmills" on large boulders, below a crater high on the wall. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992 | 50m, 2 | |||
21 R | ★ Sancho Panza
Runout climbing up a superb wall. Start: Start just left of "Baltic City"
FA: Keith Lockwood, James McIntosh (alt) & Melanie McIntosh, 1993 | 50m, 2 | |||
Wall Of The West Wind | |||||
19 | Gone With The Wind
Steep, sustained and pumpy on the hard section, with a few suspect little flakes to pull on. From the L end of the wall, climb the juggy grey crack behind the conifer to a broken area. Take the distinctive thin orange diagonal up R and then up. Exit R at the summit overhang. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1988 | 30m | |||
17 | ★ Winds Of Change
Good face climbing up weakness at R end of face, which leads to the R arete before a steep conclusion. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1988 | 20m | |||
Muline Creek | |||||
16 | ★ Jungle Drums
Quality easy climb lurking in HB territory. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1995 | 30m | |||
15 | Timpani
Corner of "Jungle Drums" to overlap. Move 1 metre right, climb the overlap and finish up the face. Start: Start as for "Jungle Drums". FA: Geoff Butcher, 1995 | 30m | |||
16 | Tabla
Start off the block and follow the central line. Exit from the second ledge on the left. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1995 | 22m | |||
16 | Bongo Bonanza
Do the first few moves to the corner, then move left on to the arete. Take arete to crack and exit on first ledge. Start: Start as for "Tabla". FA: Geoff Butcher, 1995 | 22m | |||
16 | Oooga Booga
Follow teh horizontal break then climb the wall between the scrappy flake/corner and the arete. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2000 | 20m | |||
Muline Crag | |||||
24 | ★★★ Krankandangle
Steepo left leading cave route on far left side of crag. Sport all the way. FA: Simon Mentz | 15m, 5 | |||
28 | ★★★ Middle Path
Link Krankandangle into Path of Yin via low bolt. FA: Nick Sutter | 15m | |||
31 | ★★★ The Flying Duck
Start up Middle Path, where Middle Path joins Path of Yin continue traversing right into steepness. Do the big dyno and then traverse further right into Eye of the Tiger and finish as per it's anchors. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2012 | 25m, 8 | |||
32 | ★★★ The Waddle Inn
A shameless linkup but worthy none the less! Start up middle path and continue as per the flying duck. Do the crux dyno of the duck and then immediately head left into a rest before finishing at the path of yin anchors. Set: Nathan Hoette, 2015 FA: Gerhard Deiter, 2015 | 15m, 8 | |||
30 | ★★★ Path of Yin
One of the best in Oz. The only bad thing about this climb is that it was cruelly stolen from HB by a UK darkhorse. This should be on everyone's tick list. They simply don't get much better. Start: Start 5m down R of 'Krankandangle'. FA: Ken Palmer | 14m | |||
29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger
Crikey it's good. Which is better Path Of Yin or Eye Of The Tiger? Truly superb rock architecture, with fair dinkum good moves. Was a lot harder but then some creative thinking enabled the roof passage to be climbed with out too much strength, which produced an enormous increase in it's popularity! Incredibly steep, at least 15m overhung. Start: Start at the back of the cave beneath the huge "eye" in the roof. FA: Scott Walter | 25m, 10 | |||
29 | ★ Eye of Yin
Links eye of tiger start to path of Yin finish via a fun looking flake feature & a few new bolts FA: nathan hoette | 25m | |||
28 | ★★★ Tail of the Tiger
Fantastic climbing on an outrageous feature. Batman to 4th bolt. FA: Lee Cossey, 2015 | 27m | |||
Nathan Project
Unfinished bolted line in the middle of the blankness, 4 bolts with a bail biner. Lee Cossey sent this in 2015 as Tail of the Tiger (28) with a batman start but the first 3 bolts are yet to go. | |||||
30 | ★★★ Central Latitudes
Lunacy endurance traverse. Your forearms will explode. FA: HB | 45m | |||
32 | ★★ Long Arm White Spider
Starts as per PFOD then joins CL for a couple of bolts. Takes traverse line a few meters south of CL to same anchor FA: Nathan H, 2014 | 50m | |||
31 | ★★ Parisian Thumbs
As for Cl but keep going straight up via very reachy moves. Start: Start as for CL. FA: Nick Sutterish, 2010 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams
A beautiful gobsmacking line. The manky old carrots at the start have now been placed with rings. A long stick-clip is required as the crux is the start. Start: Start 3m R of the base of the rock step separating the upper and lower tiers of the crag. FA: Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson & Norm Booth, 1991 | 25m, 2 | |||
Nick Sutter Project
Start: The line of bolts a couple of metres R of 'Pocket Full of Dreams'. | |||||
26 | ★★ After Midnight
| 55m | |||
26 | After Midnight Pitch 1
A strong natural line but a bit chossy in the middle. Start: The hanging left facing corner in the centre of the crag, where the walk-in track meets the cliff, and about 10m R of PFoD. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 1991 | 20m, 3 | |||
24 R | ★★ After Midnight Pitch 2
Choss. Like climbing the worst sea cliff in Sydney. Not sure why Malcolm did this?! FA: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 1991 | 15m, 4 | |||
30 | Snap Dragon
A great line that was strangely one of the last routes added. Seems so obvious now. Start: Start 5m L of 'Desert Rose'. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2005 | 20m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose
Another superb line. The best 27 in the 'Grampians' - although most think its actually 28! Start: Start about 8m R of After Midnight. FA: HB, 1994 | 30m, 8 | |||
30 | ★★★ Demon Flower
The original Vic Ranges hard route. Mega. Some think it might be 31... Start: Start 5m R of DR at major scoopy weakness. Power endurance classic past 6 bolts to anchor FA: HB, 2000 | 25m, 6 | |||
33 | ★★★ Flower Power
One of the hardest routes in 'Victoria'. A sustained full frontal assault on the highest part of the cave. Start: Start just R of DF. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2003 | 20m | |||
30 | ★★★ Wild Orchids
Tough rightwards heading line right of Flower Power. Slopy. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002 | 17m | |||
30 | ★★ Pa Pa Poppy
A bit of a glue job. The glued on hold has come off once again. Probably impossible atm january 2015 FA: Nathan, 2000 | 15m | |||
27 | ★ Jumping Geraniums
Start up 'Sullivan Street' then bust out left and up bulging wall above. #2 Camalot can be placed after last bolt to protect runout finish. Needs rebolting! FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002 | 17m | |||
26 | ★ Sullivan Street
Very tough bouldery start that has shut down quite a few strong international climbers. Bring a medium cam for the finish moves. Lower off last bolt. FA: HB, 2000 | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Munro Street
7 bolts across lovely flake feature. | 15m | |||
29 | Path Of Garth
| 15m | |||
23 | ★ Nothing Lasts Forever
Short punchy route on left of cave. 'Nowra' like! FA: Kent Paterson, 2010 | 8m | |||
25 | ★ Coffee And TV (Upper Cave)
Follows bouldery rib to juggy finish. | 10m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Marlon Brando (Upper Cave)
| 10m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Blinded by the Lights
Starts on far right of cave and finishes as for NLF. Nice pumper! FA: Kent Paterson, 2010 | 15m | |||
29 | ★★★ Body Blow (Emu Cave)
Left hand start to minimal tech. | 15m | |||
28 | ★★★ Minimal Tech (Emu Cave)
THE line of the cave. Power Endurance. | 15m | |||
26 | ★★ Middle Park
Link up minimal tech into loose cannon. | 12m | |||
29 | ★★★ Loose Cannon (Emu Cave)
Just another stunner | 15m | |||
29 | ★ McLovin' (Emu Cave)
Steep and very crimpy | 12m | |||
31 | ★★★ Bikini Revenge
The only bolted line in this cave. Classic Power Route. | 15m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Malcolms Upper Route
Furthest right of the upper tier routes. Crazy roof climbing. Belay off double FHs. Three FHs on the route itself. No anchor so back jump to clean. FA: HB, 2000 | 15m | |||
18 | Some Like It Hot
Pull onto wall at right-hand end of overhanging section and go up, veering left. Start: Just along from and at right-angles to the right-hand end of the cave terrace is a small wall with an overhanging left side. FA: Edwin Young & Kate Hilton, 1995 | 10m | |||
18 | Too Hot to trot
Up middle seam right of "Some Like It Hot". Follow grassy, right-leading crack, then up. FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw, Kate Hilton & Edwin Young, 1995 | 10m | |||
16 | Tattoos of Memories
Spectacular stuff. Takes a hanging rib which bisects two big red caves, then a sweeping blade arete above. 'The caves' feature the roof climb "Path of Garth". Start: Starts: On big cliff down and right of main 'Muline Crag'. From the car, walk up track as far as the second rocky outcrop. Skirt right 50m around base of outcrop to cliff.
FA: Tim & Keith Lockwood (alt), 2006 | 40m, 2 | |||
Doritos Wall | |||||
20 | Quick Draw McGraw
This route takes an obvious crack through a roof 4m off the ground a few metres L of 'Homework'. 1) 18m Up through the roof (crux) to a ledge. Traverse L to belay in a small cave. 2) 20m Traverse out R from cave, and up R-ward leading flake/crack to ledge. 3) 15m Up on jugs to the top. FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust (alt), 1993 | 53m | |||
18 | Homework
Start: Start 12m along from L end of undercut section. FA: Mike Wust, Wayne Maher (alt) Jeremy Boreham & Jerry Maddox, 1993 | 55m | |||
26 | ★ Little Room
| 35m | |||
28 | ★★★ Pistol Whipped
As for blind man with a pistol until headwall. Follow crazy dihedral left to a classic power endurance crux. | 35m | |||
26 | ★★★ Blind Man with a Pistol
Classic pumper! Starts in corner at left hand edge of the cliff. Fun juggy start leads to a rest. Trend right following a grey streak with hidden beautiful dyke edges. A punchy end guards the anchor. FFA: Toby Pola, 28 7월 2018 | 31m | |||
25 | ★★★ Nothing gets Crossed Out
Great line through the middle of the cliff, following a long thin black streak. Bring a couple of long draws to help with potential rope drag. FFA: Kent Paterson | 35m | |||
23 | ★ Chinese Knockoff (Link-Up)
Notable as its the easiest sport route up the cliff. Do the first pitch of China Fingers. After this do a run out traverse into the fantastic headwall of Nothing Gets Crossed Out. Be careful of rope length when lowering. Maybe 24? FA: Kent Paterson, 2018 | 50m, 2 | |||
28 | ★★ Don't Retreat at the First Gunshot
Start as first pitch of CF. Traverse left off the ledge and weave up the awesome orange face. Classic Pumping. | 35m, 2, 9 | |||
28 | ★★ China Fingers
Start up the orange flake line on the right hand side of the cliff. The first pitch is tenuous and a little goey. The 2nd pitch goes directly up the beautiful black streak littered with small quartz dykes. FFA: Kent Paterson | 2 | |||
29 | ★★ Life in the Shadows
Starts as first pitch of China Fingers. Blast directly up orange face and corner. Veer left on flakes to slight brown streak. Final boulder guards the anchor. Massive pitch. | 38m | |||
25 | ★★ Methotrexate
Right most route, left of where the cliff breaks down. Start up easy ramp and directly into very continuous, thin techy face climbing. After the 5th bolt head left and then up to a small overlap and steep head wall climbing between the twin cracks, which finally relents to a little slab and then steep flake. Set: adam demmert FFA: adam demmert & Oz, 28 7월 2018 | 35m, 12 | |||
13 | Nile
Left of "Whipping Boy" is a big orange wall. Nile takes the right edge of this wall.
FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood (alt) & Norm Booth, 2005 | 40m, 2 | |||
Emu Rock | |||||
16 | ★★ Whipping Boy
Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness. Start at L end of wall at corner under roof.
FA: Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter, 1987 | 80m | |||
16 | ★ Wallscrawl
The first of three routes which are direct variants of 'Whipping Boy'. Start 6m R of Whipping Boy.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988 | 87m | |||
17 | ★ Sheet Of Water
The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh (alt), 1992 | 100m | |||
16 | Mother Superior
More of the same with less pro. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1989 | 90m | |||
18 | Sufferers' Palestine
FA: Anton Bartlett & Simon Murray (alt), 1995 | 90m | |||
17 | ★★ Sahara
Sustained and great.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt) Geoff Gledhill, 1989 | 90m | |||
19 | ★★ Sahara Direct Finish
| ||||
17 | ★★★ Cyclops
A fantastic route - it's like an easier version of Archimedes Principle (Eureka Wall)! The rock is superbly featured, but it can be rather brittle (esp on first pitch).
FA: Keith Lockwood & Parrish Robbins, 1990 | 80m | |||
16 | ★★★ Patagonia
Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988 | 130m | |||
16 | ★★ Patagonia direct finish
FA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991 | 60m | |||
21 | ★★ Drung South
Hotter than the 'Sahara'. Starts just R of 'Patagonia' at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia's original second pitch traverse on the way. FA: Parish Robbins & Keith Lockwood, 1990 | 60m | |||
18 | Sorority Babes
FA: Simon Murray & Tim Peterson (alt), 1995 | 150m |