루트들 Sundial Peak에서

Once well-known as one of the earlier grade 20s in Victoria but has sunk back into deserved obscurity. Still one of the cleaner climbs here though.

A clean technical start leads to varied and sometimes loose and/or dirty ground in the second half. Start 12 metres left of 'Manxome Foe' at a prominent left-facing corner.

1. 35m (21) Sustained up corner then step right and up easy ground to ledge.

2. 25m (17) Go 4 metres right on ledge and go up attractive hand-crack in excellent rock.

3. 25m (18) Corner above until it ends abruptly at overlap. Hard move up left to ledge. Left up this to prominent, twin cracks in right-facing corner. Up these (loose rock) to exit up left to loose ledge/ramp.

4. 35m (15) Straight up loose ground from top of ledge/ramp for 4 metres. Go 2 metres left to gully, up this then veer up left.

A superb right-facing black and yellow corner, a landmark at the right-hand end of the cliff. Scramble up to starting ledge. Escape off right at the top.

The shallow L-facing corner immediately right of Corum's Corner. Scramble off to the right.

Approach these next few routes from above; from the lookout, continue walking approx northwards along the top of the cliff until able to scramble down easily enough to a flat area of rock that forms the top of a buttress (approx above the Corum's Corner area at the right-hand end of the cliff). There is a double bolt rap anchor here, which is directly above, and used to access, Queen of Hearts. From the left edge of the base of the buttress move up right, past a bolt runner, to access the front of the buttress, then straight up via another 2 or 3 bolts to the rap anchor at the top.

a little left of the base of Queen of Hearts are a few distinct natural crack or crack and corner lines. Curioser and Curioser takes recessed twin/opposing corners. When one thins out to virtually disappear it is possible to do a groin-busting bridge to help move across to the other crack then up more easily.

Approach by rapping down Queen of Hearts. Scramble left to an enticing crack just left of Curioser and Curioser. Up this.

Beautiful clean corner. The climb had been done earlier by others with a couple of aids. Start on terrace 5 metres left of 'Brillig'

1. 15m () Easy, wide crack in right-facing corner to overhang. Step left, up to ledge and go left to below the clean corner.

2. 20m (21) Corner with hard moves at top. Exit right to bushy ledge (this is left end of first belay of 'Brillig' and 'Epicurean'

3. 20m (14) Step left and pull over overhang above pitch two. Either traverse 3 metres left and go up (as led) or go up and left in attractive diagonal seam (20; as followed) to left arete of buttress. Follow wide line up and slightly right, finishing up cleft to ledge below lookout.

Excellent first pitch but second is easy rubbish. A better finish (on rock) would be the last pitch of 'Through The Looking Glass'. Line 5 metres left of 'Epicurian'.

1. 35m (18) Line past right side of first overhang then up left past second one. Traverse 3 metres left. Up to shallow corner and up to ledge.

2. 20m Originally finished up 'Epicurian' with minor variations but much better to move left to final pitch of 'Through The Looking Glass' (large cams).

Good, sustained first pitch. Second pitch is rubbish and better to finish up 'Through The Looking Glass'. Start at short corner 5 metres right of 'Brillig', 13 metres left of the end of the terrace.

1. 35m (16) Short corner to small ledge and up into sentry box. Traverse left on lip of overhang to ledge. Jam and bridge the line.

2. 20m Up through the hole at the back of the ledge. Up and finish either side of the lookout (left-side is easier and less dangerous). Better would be to traverse left to last pitch (grade 14) of 'Through The Looking Glass' (take large cams).

Wanders its way up the ground (the word is used deliberately) right of 'Epicurian' in search of rock that will stay attached to the cliff.

1. 12m Little corner 6m right of 'Epicurian' to grassy ledge. Up line then step right to arete.

2. 18m Traverse left and up into shallow flaring chimney (big loose flake on left). Up this chimney and exit right over more loose blocks. Up easier crack to step right udner prow.

3. 18m Corner right of prow. Bush and dirt leads to crack above and up until able to traverse right to below twin cracks.

4. 12m Twin cracks then exit right. Wall, overhang and short crack.

The left of the two overhanging boulders has awesome powerful climbing on good holds. Sit-start left hand on low crimp and right hand low on arete. Make powerful compression moves between good holds.

A weird arete with weird moves. Sit-start left hand on rear left arete and right hand gaston. Get the pinch, slap up, and rock back leftward to finish.

Probably the best line at the Alcove. Sit-start left hand on jug, right hand on choice of low crimps. Get the bomber pinch, stay low, and slap rightward to double slopers before mantelling the face.

Sit-start the protuding iron bar and make weird moves up the slab arete. Carefully mantel with slopers.

For historical purposes. The route to the right of "The Twisted Staircase". Sit-start and head directly up face/rounded arete. Would probably climb okay if not for loose edges. Be careful what you pull on.

From a stand climb the shield just right of the left arete.

Sit start on the low diagonal crack in the middle of the northwest face. Straight up finishing right of the moss.

Starts as for Railon but traverse left to finish as for Swarm up.

Excellent. Sit-start on right side of boulder matched on good sloper. Traverse leftward on jugs into double gaston. Make hard moves on good crimps and finish as for "Railup" (V4).

This line traverses the whole face and adds a challenging undercling section which requires good footwork to succeed. Start as for "Crimp Rail", traversing leftward to finish up "Swarm Up" (V2).

Climbs the centre of the very high slab. Finishes once your on the ledge.

Stand-start. Climb the left arete of the west face (just left of Pray). Can be done as a sit-start off two sidepull crimps at about V4/5.

Easy classic. Climb the middle of the face of crazy paving.

Right arete of west face. Jump start to jug then finish up the grey face above

Sit start on the low right hand crimp and left hand side pull/undercling. Straight up trend right to top.

Sit start on the right arete. Layback on slopers to jump for last hold on left face.

Start Low on Slopers at Aréte trend left then Dyno for the lip

Riley Kenna's channel!

Originally given v9 without the high right heel-toe cam.

Up the slab wall left of Courtyard Arete.

Grovel through the narrowing passageway to a squeeze at the end.

Take care of the drop on the other side.

Up the slopey compression from a sitstart on the arete.

Fridge hug up the buttress.

Richard

All the way up the terrifyingly high left arete of the buttress

Climb the face left of Bleached Balls until the first break

Stand-start on jug rail left of "Beige is All The Rage". Head directly up the slightly overhung vague arete.

Stand start as for "Hymen Gorillas". Traverse left and head up.

Stand start under roof. Using underling pockets to start, move through lip and up the face.

Start with left hand under triangle feature and right hand on good rail to the right. Move left and finish up "Beige is all the rage."

Starting holds are a bit high so may need to stack pads or jump start to establish if shorter. When established, the starting holds feel like jugs 👌

📹 Bermuda

For an extra challenge, climb Bermuda without feet. Fun flowy campus finishing on a big move to the last jug. Feet on is okay to get undercling over the lip and top out. Adds a Vee point in difficulty.

📹 Bermuda Campus

Climb the Arete. Stand start.

Sit start on the same holds as Over The Moon. Move left, then straight up to top out.

Sit Start under the flake. Go straight up. Interesting climb.

Sit start low (hands off the jugs) on the right prow. Climb the prow.

Start at the back of the cave and climb out to finish Moon Walker.

Start from the back of the cave. Burst out to the lip and continue up the slopey arete.

From the start of The Walker, head right on crimps to finish on Evac.

Sit start on the arete, slap up and finish as for The Quickening.

Start as for The Quickening, head right through crimps from the jug.

Is this the Weill's favourite time of the year? Looks unlikely for the grade (and, obviously, could be spoogey). Sit start off LH undercling and RH side-pull then go up the blunt arete.

Stand Start in the Offwidth Crack and work your way up in the crack to a slopey top out. All holds within reach are in, but the more you are jamming, the more fun you are having.