루트들 One For The Road에서

Same route as one for the road. But when you get to the overhang escape off to the right to the ledge.

Start from the platform and climb up the major crag of the wall. The crux is at the roof with good gear and great holds. Build the anchor over the big boulder with enough rope or some cams, nuts or hexes under the two boulders on top with you sitting snug between them.

Climb the line of bolts left of One for the Road.

Start as for Thunder Thighs / Sinuosity for 5m. Then traverse left 5m in large horizontal break, clipping second bolt of Dolphin Smiles. Finish up last 3 bolts of Fishing with Dynamite.

Start 2m right of Dolphin Smiles, up and right using the corner system. From the shelf and 2m left of Sinuosity head straight up the wall using flakes and then further up horizontal pocket, joining Sinuosity to finish (Krish Seewraj, Andrew Malone 27/03/11).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-willyabrup/

After the 3rd bolt, head right towards the darker rock and crack.

Start 2m L of Dolphin Smiles and follow 6 RBs to the top. Slightly overhanging, pumpy and interesting all the way. A #0.5 Camalot is optional between first and second bolt with the other option being a guaranteed ground fall. Be warned, this in not a sports route. Easy to mistake for Golden Buttress if using old guidebook.

Discussion around bolting and local ethics: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-willyabrup/

Direct version goes straight up below first bolt. Medium nuts and cams required for protection.