루트들 Dog Rocks에서

Sit-start and then move into a high rockover to get the large undercling. Don't use the loose flakes on the right. From here move up and slightly left to finish.

Sit start at low mega jug flake right side of the trackside face. Straight up via some tricky tenuous moves to gain the obvious bulb then mantle. I was all over the show today so grace could be out. These had chalk in them so will see what they thought...

Sit start as for Sandblast but traverse right to gain the Back Arete. Some cool moves.

Climb arete at right end (next to adjacent boulder) from a stand with the cool bread loaf pinch on the arete. Climb topless only if into Fetish. Same grade from a sit-start.

Sit-start on Back Arete. At the breadloaf move right and use the two dishes in the face to finish direct (no arete to finish). I didn't use the underclings in the overlap as they looked a bit loose. Nice, funky climbing.

Sit start to right-ward traverse along lip. Top out at tip of boulder.

Sit start with right undercling, and left hand on sloper. pull up to good jugs, and top out while avoiding the decaying feet.

Sit-start just left of the crack and move up the crimps, veering leftwards, to a hard finish. [Jump/traverse off].

Easy hand crack widens to fists before an awkward top out underneath hanging boulder.

Sit start and follow the exceptionally thin seam then up.

No-hand traverse from the blunt arete up and right-ward.

Stand start from the prominent xenolith. Stem across onto the main boulder, and top out.

Stand up on high feet with right arete and make a few moves to top out. subtract a grade if you are tall enough to reach the high left sloper.

Start deep under boulder and follow finger crack to mantle top-out. Was definitely easier before the good edges blew off.

Left arete of pyramid highball.

Start on the left of the pyramid face. Traverse rightward following two thin seams and top out as for Apple Crumble

Up the face on the right side of the triangular face.

Easy open corner serves as the easiest way to the top, as well as a possible downclimb.

Easiest way down can also be climbed upward.

Sit start on the left of the large flake, continue to the top.

Sit start on the right of the large flake, continue to the top.

Stand start the slab directly right of Flake and Bake.

Wonderful clean hand crack. Originally climbed on trad gear, later repeated as boulder.

Climb the overhanging prow from a sit-start. Start on left-hand side but at the halfway point use both sides of the prow. Amazing line but rock is a bit crumbly.

Stand start at right hand arete on obvious right hand hold, left hand on small vertical crimp, move up and finish as for Akela.

Sit-start the left arete of the slab, continue up easily.

On face to the left of Concrete Boots. Stand start matching on the rail, up to arete and second rail, traverse right to top out on the big blobby jug.

Start as for Tabaqui but continue the traverse rightward into Concrete boots before topping out.

Edited name to reflect FA details from 2003. The open book corner which is quite hard to read. Involves some delicate moves to gain the top. FA thought V2/3 and repeats now suggest V5, so grade set at V4.

Start matched on undercling with good feet. Dynamic move up and top out with careful feet

Sit-start and climb the arete.

Up the obvious weathered face using the Right arete.

Traverse Right to Left from a sit start. Climb around arete to easy slab and top out.

Walk up past Mandarin on the path to this boulder. Sit-start and climb the groove and arete.

Stand-start and climb the wall right of the arete (don't use arete!). A nice climb. 50 years ago today humans first landed on the moon.

Climb the arete on it's right-hand side from a stand-start.

Climb the arete on it's left-hand side from a stand-start.

Climb the wall on knobs and edges from a stand-start.

On the left up the hillside as you walk to the Scottish Reign amphitheatre from the car park. Sit start and head up the groove.

This takes the arete right of Mandarin from a sit start

Up the wall to the left of Ebb and Flow past two carrot bolts.

Start on fallen over log, up obvious crack to direct finish up and over, don't go around the arete. May need to place a directional if top-roping to avoid whipping into tree.

Link up between DM and McD, guide says it's 25+ but nothing like that

Stunning line up the best piece of real estate at the crag. Follow the seam past an awkwardly placed retrobolt, before joining Jacobite higher up.

Originally graded 24, however several key holds have now broken off and there seems to be a consensus that it's at least a grade harder. DO NOT AID THIS ROUTE ON CAMS OR CAM HOOKS. The flake is fragile and prone to breaking when loaded by these devices.

Much easier than it looks and really good climbing at the grade. Beware of your rope catching around the bottom of the flake. Up the first few metres of "Culloden". Clip the FH, then step across L and up to the flake. Undercling L and around into the final crack on "Scottish Reign". Scramble off R or pull over the top.

Right of 'Scottish Reign' and around the corner, climb the flexing hollow flake behind the stringybarks to the ledge.

It may be short but this little crack is actually worth roping up for. The L-leaning finger-crack 4m R of "Ecosse" is fairly tricky.

No pro. Up slab L of HISP.

Thin face with a single fixed hanger at about 4m.

Up the arete above the bouldering slabs, past 2 bolts and tree branch (sling). Double bolt belay towards the back of the block.

Sit start (obviously) one move mantle, possible in Blundstones. The shortest route in the courtyard but possible nonetheless. This one is the boulder you'd probably sit on to belay for the above route

Climb the wall and right arete just right of the bouldering slabs. Stand start.

Up between the rounded arete and clean white streak right of Mother and Child.

Continue south and uphill past the Braveheart terrace. To the southwest is a corridor formed by two boulders. The western boulder is capped by a split block and has a crack which doesn't reach the ground. Tartan goes up the arete at the north end of the corridor. Breach the cap via the horizontal break.

Start at Jewellery and step up and left on thin edges to clip first hanger - or stick clip. The second hanger has been removed (???) so you will need to use a nut/wire to clip it and the top bolt is a carrot and needs a hanger. Fixed hanger and small cam to belay.

The corner at the back of the deep chimney

As you walk into the Courtyard, there is a slab on the right which leads to a narrow chimney. Inside the chimney there is an obvious curving flake. Up this to the top.

Climb the wall left of Finger Food to top out. High

Traverse seam right then head up thin edges to DRB at the top.

Start on stacked rocks to reach first holds (looks like erosion has made this necessary since it was first established). Then up sharp edges trending left following bolts until you reach the DRB.

Start at vertical crack on the RHS of the alcove. Up this then traverse L to finish up wide crack. This was originally graded 18 and was later upgraded to 20. If you only use the crack and don't bridge across to the left hand wall, or climb around the start, then this climb is more like 22

Start at Semantics then continue direct up the arete left of the roof.

Start up Semantics, then up to first FH on Modern Logic. Traverse R under the roof to DRB.

Desperate start to gain flake, then traverse R into Painless. Carrots.

Popular face climbing past BRs to a DBB.

This and the next few routes/problems all lie in a cluster of boulders to the right of the main approach path before you get to the courtyard.

Stand-start and climb the obvious groove. Use holds either side to help but finish directly above the groove. Technical. There is a large loose flake on the right at about 1/3 height - use this for your feet but try not to lever it off!

Start from the high fallen slab left of The Descendants and stretch left into the corner to a good hold. Finish from here on good holds. A strange but good route.

Located on the wall around the corner left of Mobile Phone. Climb the seam to the break (crux) then traverse left before finishing up the final crack. Soloed after top roping. The first seam to the break is a highball boulder problem at around V6. Soloed on the FA but could be done on gear - gear after the crux though.

The beautiful arete right of Mobile Phone taken on its left-hand side. Solo after top rope. No bolts or gear. Named after the River Severn.

Now has two fixed hangers and a lower off. Retro’d With permission of first ascentionist. Bit scary at the top, extend a sling from the lower off if feeling mortal.

Climb the arete of 'Severn Tide' on its right-hand side to a tricky sloping finish. Solo after top rope.

Directly climb the wall right of Arlo's Arete. Do not use the right arete either. Crux at the top. Solo after top rope.

Now has two fixed hangers and a lower off. Retro’d With permission of first ascentionist.

Up the beautiful arete opposite The Descendants. Can be done from both sides. A sit start is also available.

Climb the crack and arete to top out.

Traverse the horizontal crack from left to right, and top out.

Near the Rover...etc slab. Stand start and move from a seam to a slope. Top out.

Tiny climb with a tough start.

Crack on the left.

Contrived slab between Fido and Rover.

Nice jamming up the central crack

Hairline crack R of Rover, with very little protection. A no.3 RP protects the slab below the horizontal break.

The slab with no gear gets easier the higher you get

Tricky start leads to nice slabbing past the ugly RBs.

This route goes left of the first FH then up using the ramp for your feet and the arete for your hands. The second FH is well right of the original line, which was climbed with side-runners in My Black Sheep. Add two grades if you climb the wall through the line of the FH and don't use the arete.

Arete near Little Bo Peep.