Large Rhyolite columns offering off-width climbing or face climbing. 2 distinctly different areas, one dominated by columns, the other by a tall, black wall. The star attraction - and the only reason to make the long trek in, is Deep Throat.
Both crags offer multipitch climbing. Porn Buttress is largely undeveloped: not a lot of trad routes here. Legoland offers heaps & as of 2019, heaps of lines to develop.
N.W. facing=it gets sun from mid morning, or Noon (mid-Winter) for Porn Buttress.
About half of the walk-in is across private land, please respect that and stay on the designated track, no pets, no cairns or tape marking tracks please.
The National Park boundary starts at the deep gully.
From the sluice gate, Walk up the hill to the meadow, you will see a forestry fire-track crossing the hiker's path:
North West Columns - Track turn-off
turn right and follow the track around below the knoll until it arrives at a grassy paddock:
Paparazzi Cliff - Fire track to Paparazzi
now start angling upwards till you come to a steep fire-track running up the hill. Head up the steep slope till you join the main fire-track, turn Right & follow this along, crossing several shallow gullies, till you arrive at the deep gully with log retaining steps:
Paparazzi Cliff - descent into last gully
down across this and proceed up "Heartbreak Ridge" on the other side (more log steps):
The Insignificant Cliff - Heartbreak Ridge
When you arrive at the start of the ridge above, DO NOT CONTINUE UP THE RIDGE LINE, instead continue Right, down into the gully, across this this to the next ridge. From here (about 30mins), continue traversing across the horrid, nasty scree slope & slightly rising until you arrive at the cliffs.
2-2.5hr approach.
Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.
First developed by Trevor Gynther in 1972. Later developed by Rick White in the mid 70s, then by Mark Gamble,Terry Svingen, Scott Camps & Robert Staszewski in the 2000s.
귀하가 등반한 등정들의 기록, 추적 그리고 공유할 수 있는 계정을 만들 수 있다는 것을 알고 계십니까? 수천명의 등반가들이 이미 이런 일들을 하고 있습니다.
Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
일자: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
Author(s): Simon Carter
일자: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
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