도움

The Graveyard Ridge

13

계절특성

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요약

Single pitch routes along a broken, poor rock face.

설명

Highest routes here are around 50m. No stand-out routes, all very mundane climbing - hardly worth the walk-in.

Routes are arranged L to R (from top to bottom).

접근 문제들

At least half of the access track in, is across private land. The NP Boundary starts at the big gully.

Please stay on the track, no pets, no cairns or tape to mark the route in. It's pretty straightforward: the North side of Maroon runs East to West.

접근

Walk up the slope from the sluice gate to the meadow, turn Right at the forestry fire track:

and follow this around below the knoll to a grassy paddock:

angle up at this point till you arrive at a steep fire access track and follow this up the steep slope to where it joins the main fire track and turn Right. Now follow this across several shallow gullies to the big gully with logs as retaining steps and "Heartbreak Ridge" on the other side:

Up the steep slope (more logs) to the ridge above:

now follow the ridge up to The Insigificant Cliff (ca. 110m elevation gain.)

turn Right here & follow the cliff line up the broken slope below The Coffee Shop, to arrive at Paparazzi Cliff & Graveyard Ridge turn-off:

head up towards Paparazzi for about 10-15m, then head out Right, through some Bush Boys & scrub, across a narrow ledge on a short cliff. Continue up the rocky scree slope, keeping the cliff face on your Left, till you arrive at the 5m high corner. Climb this (grade 3), then you have arrived. Make your way up the slope to the cliff. The last/first route: Off The Log will be down on your Right.

윤리문제 Mt Maroon으로부터 상속된

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

역사

History timeline chart

First named by Trevor Gynther in the 70s. Aside from Rick & Chris establishing The Tiger Face Escape Route here in 1968, no development until Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont developed the cliff in 2005. Mark Gamble established 3 trad routes here later.

태그들

어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트
  1. 18 35m - Up the prominent corner with sparse gear. Belay on ridge. The next 2 pitches go up The Tiger Face Annex.

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968

Start: 4m Left of Norman, in a small, Left facing corner.

Straight up (tricky mantle), to 2nd small tree, then step Left around the arête & onto face. Left up to tree, then follow diagonal crack up to top-out around Bushboy & large tree.

An assortment of small to medium gear. Rap off same tree as for Norman. A poor route over loose rock.

FA: Mark Gamble & Geoff Lawrie, 2006

Start: 20m Left of Scarface arete & below a crack with a tree in it about 8-10m up.

Up the crack on the RHS to surmount the unprotected bulge (tricky mantle), then step back Left into the crack & up this to tree. Then follow a series of vegetated corners & cracks, steepening to a small overhanging flake, around this, then up Left when possible to the tree & up 5m to large TB.

An assortment of small to medium gear. A manky affair, not worth repeating.

FA: Mark Gamble & Geoff Lawrie, 2006

Start: From TAF, head Left around the corner up a short pillar (4m) to the ledge/alcove above; the route starts in the corner on the Right.

  1. 15 40m - Manky corner to start, leading up Right into corner, then follow weakness up Left, to more mank. Make your way up around the overhanging blocks & up to a Bushboy, then right across onto ledge & belay.

  2. 10 15m - thread your way up Right through the crumbly, friable rock to the top & TB.

Not worth repeating. I took a fall at the top of the left trending rise & zippered the gear, resulting in a piece falling on my face, hence the name was born.

FA: Mark Gamble & Joe Lynch, 2006

FFA: Mark Gamble & David Duffy, 2006

Start 8m Left of TLS.

Take wires and small cams. You can approach the overhang from either side, the crux is after the overhang. Plenty of gear higher up. Re-equipped with RBs in 2020.

FA: Herb & John, 2005

Start: In front of the small tree, around the corner, 8m up the slope, L of TDOOW.

Up the smooth over-hanging wall, following 8 RBs to chains.

FA: Herb Brandmeier (top rope), 2005

FA: 2005

Start: 2m Left of OTT.

Up blunt the arête. Thin & committing start, up to RB, then #2 cam, then 7 RBs to top. Take #2 cam + small wires. Re-equipped with RBs in 2020.

FA: Alison Greenhalgh, Steve Waite & Herb Brandmeier, 2005

Start: Between the cliff & the tree, 3m Left of BBTL.

Up slinging the tree, then step off RHS & up to 1st bolt at 7m. Follow the crack all the way to the top, passing another 4 RBs, or climb the last bit of BBTL.

Re-equippedwith RBs in 2020.

FA: Steve Waite, Alison Greenhalgh & Herb Brandmeier, 2005

Start: 2m Left of GOAS.

Up crack into shallow V groove (2RBs), then left onto face. Up this passing another 9 RBs.

Take big wires and big cams. Try avoiding it early afternoon because you’ll have the sun directly in your eyes.

Re-equipped with RBs in 2020.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Steve Waite & Alison Greenhalgh, 2005

Climb the arête just Left of HS.

Take a full rack. Big cams. (1 RB, 5 carrots)

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont, 2005

Start: 10m Left of GAG.

Climb the face with the diagonal cracks to the Right of the wedged-in tree. Then up to the big corner to the top.

All trad up a classic crack-line.

FA: John Du Bont & Herb Brandmeier, 2005

Start: behind the log just Left of OTL, below the RB.

Up to RB, then up as far as you can go, after 9th runner, move Right onto OTL to finish.

Take small cams. (! RB, 12 carrots)

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont, 2005

Start: As of 2020, the log one climbed to start the route has collapsed. Climb the thin crack (gear), or take the ridge line on the Right, and head up to the first BR about 10m up, then gear after that.

Take 15 runners min., and a full rack. No big cams. 10 RBs. Re-equipped with RBs in 2020.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont, 2005

알고 계십니까?

귀하가 등반한 등정들의 기록, 추적 그리고 공유할 수 있는 계정을 만들 수 있다는 것을 알고 계십니까? 수천명의 등반가들이 이미 이런 일들을 하고 있습니다.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

일자: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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