등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V9 | ★★ Arête Problem
A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'. Surely someone has done the crack. FA: joe, 2000 | ||||
Somebody Solo'd Your Project | 7m | ||||
10 | Mekong Buck's Party
The seeping right facing corner around the corner from ER. Twin cracks to Storm water drain. FA: Shauno & Ryan L, 6월 2018 | 7m | |||
18 | Sleepy Snackdogs
Around the corner from Egg Rings. Grade due to the thin start. FA: Shauno & Ryan L, 6월 2018 | 7m | |||
18 | ★ Egg Rings
Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off. Easy top out and set up an abseil on the rings 2m back | 10m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★ The Whorl
Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread in the middle. Up past giant thread (don't thread in case it breaks), then up to clip-and-go lower-off. For the full value tick mantle out onto the top and belay off u-bolts a few metres back. Rebolted 2015. FA: Dave Humphries | 10m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Dorothy May
Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start off cairn into roof then up using handlebar hold then up the juggy arête. 3 ringbolts then right at top to shared anchor with The Whorl. FA: Dave Humphries | 10m, 3 | |||
17 | ★★ Reno
start 1m L of Dorothy May. Jump from boulder to jug just right of crack (Lean Too) and up. 3 rings and lower-off. Previoulsy bolted on coach screws, rebolted Nov 2016 FA: Viona Young | 10m, 3 | |||
15 | Lean Too
Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of "Dorothy May" The first 4m direct looks 20 I reckon, probably starts on the jugs of Reno | 15m | |||
20 | ★ Shire Riot
The line of very shiny rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. tenuous top-out then set up an abseil off rings 2m back and left to clean | 10m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Karins Loose Stool
Hard undercut start then up on good edges and slopey pockets. Easier for those with gibbon arms. FA: Mat Hutchins-Read, 8월 2015 | 10m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ The Shire Republic
Great sustained wall climbing up sloping dishes. Tricky rounded top out, or cheat and lower-off the top anchors. Rebolted August 2015. | 12m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ A pinch and a punch
Bolted line 2m L of Shire Republic. Funkies, pinches, underclings. FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 12m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Active
Crack R of Hobbit Nose with a blank section up high. Take cams FA: Jeffrey Crass | 10m | |||
21 | ★ Hobbit's Nose
Nose 3m L of A Pinch and a punch. Up and left at 2nd bolt to a tenuous finish. FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 10m, 4 | |||
15 | ★★ Passive
Flared crack left of Hobbit Nose, can be done entirely on hexes and a few wires, classic! Easier with the tree to start. FA: Mikl Law Set: Michael Law | 10m | |||
22 | ★ A crimp and a crunch
Start 3m R of the thin crack (KS) at the base of the gully, 3m L of HN. Can stand on tree to clip first runner. Up desperate start, then hard move left through roof (right is right out) and up to slabby top out. Best to rap off the anchors as it will wear your rope a bit. FA: Patrick Burr, 4월 2017 | 10m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Kick Start
Thin crack at the base of the gully on the left wall as you walk down, One hard move then up crack and nose on right to easy top out, good gear all the way (you can put a high cam in the protect the start). Double U anchor, best to abseil to avoid rope wear. FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Sandstorm
Streno, right arete of gully as you walk down. Sit start and hard top out to rings well back Set: Michael Law FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 10m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ glitter
Start about 1m L of Sandstorm by a little layback. Either hard straight up on crimps or (much nicer and easier) up left a move then right following pockets up to break (hand and fist sized cams). Up crack and tenuous slab finish straight above to rings well back. Good gear after start FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 11m | |||
20 | ★ Bicycle wall
Start on ramp as for Rainman but veer right using pocket, hard move to break (hand and fist sized cams). Hard move left into crack and break then up easily. FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 8m | |||
12 | Rainman
Ok trad gear if you look including small cams and a little wire in the 2 vertical cracks, and big cams out left. Start: The ramp 5m left (facing cliff) of the descent gully. Out left and up. easy to set up top-ropes. | 6m | |||
18 | ★ NFM
Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two more Ubolts to lower-off. Harder first moves then easy top. Start: 5m left of R, just under arete. | 8m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Killer's Kidneys
Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three Ubolts to shared lower-off with 'NFM'. Start from the ground (don't skip first few moves by standing on the block). FA: H. Wallace, 1992 | 8m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Fire Starter
Climb true direct to the anchors of pyromaniac, through centre of bolts on each side via gaston pocket and flaring vertical seam. FA: JackRyan, 7 1월 | 9m | |||
22 | ★ Pyromaniac Direct Start
Start right of the ring. | 9m | |||
20 | ★ Pyromaniac
Start well left of bolt then right to lower off. Start: Starts 3m left of KK. FA: Matt Portman | 9m, 3 | |||
17 | Pequeña Escalada (Tiny Climb)
Bouldery start with surprisingly tricky top out. Start on ground, not rock on the left. Unless you want to. FFA: Leo Stanners, 7 4월 2018 | 5m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Dynamic Winter
Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start to a good fist sized cam in break, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. Next break is big so clip one of AB's bolts and finish on AB anchor. Maybe 16V2? FA: H. Wallace, 1992 | 10m | |||
15 | ★★ Andrew's Bulge
Climb is marked with a faded AB. Just right of the crack. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with lower off. A Sydney classic FA: Peter Faill | 8m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Get Tracked
Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of 'Andrew's Bulge'. | 11m | |||
10 | Side Tracked
Start: 0.5m left of GT, Seam (wires)and thread | 10m | |||
17 | ★ Pitted Arete
Up crack 1.5m left of ST, then up of blunt arete. FA: S turcanyi, 1987 | 10m | |||
21 | ★ Mars Apple
Killer start up to first Ring Bolt. Can be done as a mixed route. Start: 1m left of Pitted Arete Rebolted 2009 FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987 | 8m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Zulu Trainer
Starts 1m left of Mars Apple. Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top. FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987 | 10m, 2 | |||
12 | Mike's Photogenic Crack
Corner crack left of ZT. Bouldery start then easy. FA: Mike Patterson | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Sports Injury Clinic
1m L of MPC. 2ubolts FA: Dave Humphries | 10m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Tits and Bits
2m left of SIC. 2 rings, shared lower-off with Sports Injury Clinic. FA: peter farkas, 1989 | 10m, 2 | |||
11 | Christmas Nuts
1m left of TaB. The grovelly dirty chimney. | 10m | |||
19 | ★★ Fixed Steps
Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs Start: On rounded arete FA: Steve Turcsanyi | 10m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Go Go Gadget Arms
The original Go Go Gadget route. Start as for Go Go Gadget 2010 Remix then use the better holds to the right to gain the rail and finish directly up. An easier alternative to the 2010 remix on the same line of bolts (might be a bit harder for shorter folk). Soloed by Jason Lammers before the bolts were in. Set: Hayden & Jason Lammers, 1992 FFA: Hayden, 1992 | 10m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix
Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Originally toproped a bit right at the start. Keep off the larger holds to the right to earn the grade. | 10m | |||
23 | ★ My Girl
Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off. FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1992 | 10m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ B
3 rusty carrots | 12m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Motivated Mob Confrontations
Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B FA: Keysar Trad, 1992 | 10m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ A Loving Hole
Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack FA: H. Wallace, 1992 | 10m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ Bangor Tiger
RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is. | 10m | |||
{US} V5 | ★★ Arachnology for Kids Traverse
From the corner/crack of In Depth (marked 'ALH') traverse right to the arete of Fixed Steps. V4/V5? Technical, very good. FA: NC, 2003 | 9m | |||
11 | ★★ In Depth
Corner crack just left of ALH. | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Python Direct
On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner. Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python. Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up . Really runout easy to deck. Dare Devil sports climb. | 10m, 1 | |||
17 | ★ Python
On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 Ubolts to lower-off up and right. | 8m, 2 | |||
13 | ★ Nana in the dark | 8m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Nananapper
Start 1.5m left of Whippersnapper in the squeeze, straight up wall to last bolt of Nana in the dark and on to anchors. FA: Michael Law | 9m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Whippersnapper
The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has 3 bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to righthand anchor (clip and go). FA: Luke, 2002 | 8m, 3 | |||
10 | ★ Unknown on block left
| 8m | |||
10 | Tilba Tilba
On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag. Mantle, then up. No pro. | 8m | |||
18 | ★ Voodoo Traverse
Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro. | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Lucky's Roof
Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. 18 if you start on the cairn. Variant top out via the mantle (21). FA: Luke, 2002 | 5m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Felix
Start up Lucky's Roof to the 1st bolt then right to lip past 2 bolts (not on easy flake), then left to big flake and hard move up wall FA: Michael Law, 2015 | 10m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Neil's Roof
Start as for Lucky's Roof then take the right leading bolts direct through the roof as for Felix (avoiding the major roof flake), then climb the seam crack up the headwall just right of Felix to shared single bolt lower-off. The headwall is a bit bold with the bolt spacing. FA: Heath Black | 10m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Another kind of rainbow
Pumpy fun. Start through roof as for Death of a Black Boy then left along lip and up to single U lower at top. FA: Mikl Law, 2016 | 10m, 4 | |||
22 R | ★ Djurid Dreaming
Boldly boulder out of the cave and up into horizontal seam to good gear. Continue along and up the 2 horizontal runnels to the next break and onwards to anchors of Death of a Xanthorrhoea. FA: nathanual hebbard, 6 9월 2021 | 10m | |||
21 | ★ Death of a Xanthorrhoea
Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars. Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors. FA: H. Wallace, 1992 | 8m, 3 | |||
V3 | ★★ Three Sides Traverse
(Anti-clockwise) traverse of three sides of the detached block downhill from the crag. Starts on left hand end of overhung most downhill face with gymnastic moves following hand traverse line. Round corner and continue along (uphill) along thin wall. Round the next corner, traverse short low overhung face to finish in cave. FA: N Clow, 2003 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Please Dont Piss Here
On the back of The Block, to the right of the 'PLEASE DONT PISS HERE' writing in chalk. 2 ring bolts to double u bolt belay. FFA: Leo Stanners, 25 4월 2018 | 8m, 2 | |||
V12/13 | ★★ Only the Lonely
Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 8월 2020 | ||||
19 | ★★ Please Don't Piss Here Either
To the right of Please Don't Piss Here, on the back of the The Block. And, as the disgruntled boulderer has written in chalk, don't pee here. FA: Leo Stanners, 17 6월 2018 | 8m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ New Generation
From under the lip, up the line of rings to double rings. FA: Luke, 2002 | 10m, 5 | |||
17 | ★★ Grandma's Wheelchair Direct
As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave to give it a punchy and fun start. | 10m | |||
16 | ★ Grandma's Wheelchair
Past Python, on LHS of cave. Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted. FA: Dave Humphries | 10m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Get Walking
Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up. | 9m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Skulduggery
Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack | 9m | |||
20 | ★ Flash as a rat
Start in corner 3m L of Skullduggery, up and right then up rounded buttress finishing on right. Reachy and rounded. Recently rebolted. There is a common variant of this route that uses the same bolts, but involves traversing to the right of the bulge towards Skullduggery between the first and second clip, then heading to the top on good holds. This skips the crux of the main route and changes the grade to a 16 or 17. FA: Michael Law | 12m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ End of the Decade
Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete. | 11m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ End of the Century
Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor ! FA: Jason Lammers, 2009 | 10m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ End of the Line
Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts. FA: T Meredith & D Burgess, 2011 | 12m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Grotto Crack
Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing. | 9m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Buzz Boys Beat
Wall 1m Left of Grotto Crack, hard if you don't use the crack on the left at the 2nd U bolt. Lower off around to left. Beware the old garden seat at the top of this route from which people may throw down rocks and rubbish. | 9m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Chicanery Crack
A great beginner trad lead with plenty of bomber gear and good stances for placing. You can even practice your offwidth chicken arm and leg jamming at half height. The crack located just to the left of Buzz Boys Beat. Shares anchors with Buzz Boys Beat. If you're tall enough you can reach them from the ledge. | 8m | |||
18 | ★ Zip
Tricky! Start by climbing directly up arete and continue up past 3 Ubolts to lower off. | 8m | |||
17 | ★ Unzip
Boulder problem start to Zip from under roof | 10m | |||
21 | ★★ Marathon Man
Shortest stamina route in the Shire. Start up Zip then left along traverse line through roof and up. Right to Zip anchors or backjump (easier) FA: jeff Crass, 2016 | 12m, 7 | |||
18 | Billabong
Start on other side of block near gully. one carrot | 5m, 1 | |||
15 | ★ Ali
| 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Huge VanLust
Highball arete left of Ali. Sit down / Start lowwww. Hard start, easy but high finish FA: Eugene Mak, 2019 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Racy
Start on right, either hard boulder or jump off block to jugs and up R edge to lower off. FA: vanessa peterson, 2017 | 10m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Facy
Left of racy, hard start and up then R to shared lower off with Racy FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 10m, 2 | |||
15 | Slobbery Dog
| 6m | |||
24 | ★ Starfish
Start about 2m L of the corner (Slobbery Dog) and up then big move left. Lungey stuff. FA: Michael Law | 10m, 3 | |||
12 | Rockclimber's Waltz
| 7m | |||
10 | ★ Magic sparkle
Start on boulder 3m R of Belly Bulge, step on to lip of roof and up slab. FA: Lexi Law & Michael Law, 2017 | 10m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Belly Bulge
Start 1m R of crack, up past 2 Ubolts then left to shared U and lower-off. FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 10m, 3 | |||
17 | ★★ The Drum
Start on left of crack and up to lower off. FA: vanessa Peterson, 2017 | 10m, 3 | |||
16 | Head Butte
| 6m | |||
18 | Can't Stop The Knee Lock
Wide roof crack mini route that requires nearly zero off-widthing! Can be done either as a trad route (protect with 1-2 size 6s) or as a high ball boulder. FA: Matthew Robbins, 14 9월 2023 | 5m | |||
17 | Dollar Drinks
Left most route, facing the cliff. A bit lame, but still fun. Great newbie climb. Beware of soft and lose sandstone. Much deterioration on this climb. | 8m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Sloth loves chunk
Up dirty looking crack to slopers. Committing finish. Set: 6 11월 2018 FFA: 16 11월 2018 | 8m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Karate Paintball Dirt Bike Club
Up edges and block, then round left of roof and up. Use long slings or rap down to clean due to rope drag. Beware of soft and loose sandstone in cave under overhang at the finish. Several holds broken off on start making it much more difficult to get going. Set: Leo Stanners, 6 11월 2018 FFA: Leo Stanners, 16 11월 2018 | 9m, 6 | |||
22 | ★ Wild Strip Club Bikie Brawl at Bangor Taven
Up arete then through roof to the right. Again, use long slings or rap down to clean. Beware of soft and loose sandstone in cave under overhang at the finish. Set: Leo Stanners, 6 11월 2018 FFA: Leo Stanners, 16 11월 2018 | 9m, 6 | |||
21 | Powdered Toast Man
Jugs, crimps and slopers all in less than 7m of climbing. Set: Leo Stanners, 11 1월 2019 FFA: Leo Stanners, 12 5월 2019 | 7m, 4 |