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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
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Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | |||||
24 | Bitsa
Follow the three bolts just left of the corner. Traverse left at the horizontal break for 3m and use natural gear (a 0.75 cam is useful). Ascend the wall on lay away holds. FA: Grant Rowbottom, 2011 | 15m, 3 | |||
24 | Dog Fight
Follow Bitsa for the first 3 bolts and then continue up Dream Time Fox to the grassy ledge past one more bolt to the finger crack and then DBB. FA: Pete Woolford, 2011 | 20m, 4 | |||
22 | Dream Time Fox
Start in the crack 1m right of Bitsa. Climb the crack/corner for 5m before taking a slightly diagonal leftward line through the overlapping horizontal breaks. Surmount the grassy ledge. Finish up the finger crack/corner. FA: Pete Woolford, 2011 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Giving the dog a bone
Stick clip the first bolt. From the ledge directly below the first bolt, traverse left then up layback crack. Hand-traverse back right to the first bolt. Powerful moves take you up to easy ground. Take some wires and #1-3 cams for the top. DBB. FA: Pete Woolford | 20m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Barking Mad
Start 4m Left of Wile E. Coyote. Chin up on the jug to clip the first bolt or stick clip. Funky moves around the bulge lead to easy ground. Power up the sustained headwall and exit to the right. DBB. Take a long draw for the 5th bolt. FA: Tom Fulton & Pat Eberhard, 5월 2020 | 20m, 9 | |||
19 | ★ Wile E. Coyote
Dirty black crack at the right end of the cliff just left of Puppy Love. Best in dry times. Finishes up the flake and blocky arete. Be careful. FA: Pete Woolford & Nick Gust, 2012 | ||||
21 | ★ Sly coyote
Start up Sly dawg until final roof, then step right of arete and up flake crack ( small hand and finger cams) before traversing left above final bolt on SD and up to chains. | 20m, 5 | |||
24 | ★ Sly Dawg
Stemming start in short corner climbing face and crossing W.E.C. at half height. Unlikely moves pulling rooflet on the arete . Finish on, or just left of arete - Good fun. FA: Tim Meech, 1월 2021 | 20m, 7 | |||
17 | ★ Puppy Love
The tiny crack (smaller than small fingers) to the right of Wile E. Coyote. Can be well protected with RPs | 7m | |||
17 | Love Poodle
The left-facing corner to the right of Puppy Love. FA: Pete Woolford & Jo Van berkel, 2011 | 7m | |||
17 | ★★ Paw Jamming
The obvious hand crack. Use the anchor of Stone Age. | 7m | |||
21 | ★ Stone Age
Good bolts, badly placed. Take care; serious ground fall potential until you make the second clip. FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2012 | 10m | |||
12 | Pleasure or Pain
The left slanting diagonal off-width. FA: Rob Hardy, 6월 2017 | 8m | |||
22 | ★ Pure Bred
Thin corner then jug on the arete. Use of the slab to the left or finishing up the crack lowers the grade to about 21. DBB. FA: Pete Woolford, 2011 | 15m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ Mongrel
| 15m | |||
16 | Labradoodle
Start as for Oddle but continue straight up the line via initial hand crack and then some bridging to anchors of Oddle. Some stacked blocks, easily avoided | 15m | |||
24 | ★ Oddle
| 15m | |||
23 | ★★★ Underdog
Well protected exciting moves on big features provides a very enjoyable climbing experience. FA: Grant Rowbottom, 2011 | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Bloodhound
Start 1m right of underdog off large block. Follow 4 FHs up wall then traverse left to join underdog FA: 2015 | 15m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Hair of the Dog
| 15m | |||
27 | ★★ Mark Your Territory
The thin crack with featuring some technical footwork. Upgraded as it's shed some holds since the FA. | 15m | |||
24 | ★ Jumping Jack Russells
| 15m | |||
18 | ★ Upward Dog
| ||||
23 | ★★ Downward Dog
| 15m | |||
23 | ★ Shake n Dog
| 15m | |||
21 | ★ Guide Dog
Nice climbing up the wall, with laybacks, underclings and a slab to finish. Lower-off. FA: R. Parkyn, 8월 2023 | ||||
19 | ★ Black Lab
Scramble up Dog Vomit and clip the first bolt. Follow the groove then break out right onto the wall and face to a lower-off. Crack direct can be climbed at grade 12 on gear but isn't recommended. FA: R. Parkyn, 8월 2023 | ||||
14 | Dog Vomit
| 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Golden Chihuahua
You can do this with a direct start. Stays to the left of the bolts for the most part, except where it uses the beautiful flake/wedge midway up. | 15m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Crazy Rabies
| 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Wag Your Tail
Solid route, crux at the crack between second and third bolts, more so when it's a bit damp. | 15m, 5 | |||
24 | ★ St Bernard
| 10m | |||
22 | ★★ Doggy Style
| 12m | |||
16 | Snitter
| 12m | |||
22 | ★★ Unknown Arete
Follow the arête, don't be tempted to use the top of the block at the bottom right for feet, don't be tempted to go right half way up. Note - no anchor bolts at the top. | 12m | |||
18 | ★ Unknown not-Arete
Stick your feet wherever. Go right to the big edge halfway up. Not direct, just fun. Note - no top bolts, set anchors of the rock/tree up top. | 12m | |||
16 | ★ Yelp
| 12m | |||
18 | ★★ Snarl
| 12m | |||
Dog Leg Bend South Sandfly Boulders | |||||
V3 | Zenith
| ||||
V3 | Zenith Direct
SDS | ||||
V3 | Zenith Extension
SDS | ||||
V3 | Nandroya
SDS | ||||
V0 | Traverse
SDS | ||||
V1 | Page Boy
SDS | ||||
V1 | Page Boy Extension
SDS | ||||
Sandfly Crag Tomahawk Boulder | |||||
V1 | Squaw
SDS | ||||
V2 | ★ Medicine Man
SDS | ||||
V3 | ★★ Tomahawk
SDS | ||||
V2 | ★ Indian Face
SDS | ||||
V1 | Indian Child
SDS | ||||
Sandfly Crag Lower Tier | |||||
24 | Skinny Dipping
The further most left sport on the cliff. FA: Pete Woolford, 2012 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Frayed Knot
Start in either the RHS or LHS crack. Good holds to a stance a couple metres below the anchor where a few unlikely but entertaining moves will get you to the DBB. | 15m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Flesh Grater
Starts 2m right of Frayed knot. Follow the hand crack with secure jams to an off width at the top. The gear is fiddly for the first few metres (micro cams may help) but bomber after that. | 15m | |||
25 | Skipping Stones
Follow the bolts to the left of the arete. FA: Pete Woolford, 2012 | 15m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Tales From a River Bank
Follow the bolts to the right of the arete FA: Pete Woolford, 2012 | 5 | |||
20 | ★★ Basil Brush
Away to the right of the other mystery climbs. A line of u-bolts going up a dark face in a recessed section of the cliff. FA: Pete Woolford, 2012 | 10m, 3 | |||
Sandfly Crag Upper Tier | |||||
15 | Sausage Lane
| 9m | |||
16 | V is for Vampire
| 9m | |||
12 | ★ Arkward
| 9m | |||
12 | Rainy Day Woman
| 9m | |||
Sandfly Crag Christmas Boulder | |||||
V3 | Equilibrium
| ||||
V3 | Exit Left
SDS | ||||
V2 | ★ Theft
Good edges all the way up, solid final hold. You can lose the use of the top two edges when damp, but these aren't mandatory. | ||||
V3 | Tempted
SDS | ||||
V1 | Deception
Has a jug you could dangle for days from, 2/3 the way up. Careful top-out. | ||||
V3 | Smeagol
| ||||
V0 | Ugly Duckling
Messy climb up the crack, reach top right to finish. | ||||
V6 | ★★ Atlas
| ||||
V4 | ★★ Hangman
SDS | ||||
V1 | ★ Christmas Pud
SDS - iffy top out. Take care! | ||||
V3 | ★★ Pud Direct
SDS | ||||
V2 | Dragonfly
SDS | ||||
V3 | ★ My Left Foot
SDS | ||||
V0 | Simplicity
| ||||
V1 | High Hand Traverse
| ||||
V0- | Treacherous Gully
The ascent/decent corner, really a vE except I can't work out how to rate climbs as letters. | ||||
Sandfly Crag Second Tier | |||||
V0 | BeeFly
| ||||
Unnamed
| |||||
Into the flow | |||||
V1 | Into the flow
Don't bother with a mat or shoes, just flash it as a warmup. Up jug then mantle and don't get your ass wet. | ||||
First incut | |||||
Thin crack direct
| 4m | ||||
V1 | Thin crack
A three move wonder, will probably need a brush. Finish on the big jug shared with "The Curse of the Black Pinch". | 5m | |||
V1 | Horny
Start on the horn, traverse through 2 finger pocket and up right into Fat Crack. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ The curse of the black pinch
Low start, varied moves then delicate balancy move to pinch the black horizontal hold. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Fat crack
A couple low start variants, then up to big jug and mantle. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ KFC Traverse
Start on arete jug, traverse left through 6 progressively thinner crimps and up to jug on 'Fat Crack'. Keep your feet above the line of black rock. | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Arete
Start under roof, through good jug to high side pull and jump off when you hit the grass. | 4m | |||
★ Arete direct
Hard start variant | 4m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Cavelet
Start on side pull, reach into rail on roof then traverse left and up and finish up the arete. | 6m | |||
Mono project
Start under the cave, directly up through slopers and mono pocket. Needs more cleaning | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Slopers
Start under roof on side pull, the traverse right on slopers. Slightly harder right to left. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ The crack
Either sit start or link in from the Traverse, harder than it looks. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Traverse
Great jugs, chalky feet | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Long traverse
Start with the easy jug traverse then link through the slopers, the cavelet, up the arete, then left to the safety of the Fat Crack. | 10m |
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