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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
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The Saddle South Side En Vogue Pinnacle | |||||
19 | ★ En Vogue
Up crack in south face to break, then up onto steep slab past BR to top. DBB FA: Ken Wheat & Ken James, 1992 | 9m, 1 | |||
17 | ★ Zeitgeist
Blunt arete left of En Vogue. Up past BR to horizontal break and up to second BR, then to top. DBB FA: Ken Wheat & Ken James, 1992 | 10m, 2 | |||
The Saddle South Side Saddleback Block | |||||
16 | Synecdoche
| 8m | |||
15 | ★ Sonia's Downfall
| 10m | |||
16 | Sonia's Downfall Direct
| 9m | |||
M3 | Noxious Weed
| 10m | |||
24 | ★ Noxious Weed (free)
Short, but nice climbing. 1 BR up high. FA: Harold Ramsey, 2008 | 9m, 1 | |||
14 | Bleeding Import
Arm swallowing crack in middle of south face. May swallow legs too. FA: Eric Jones, Russel Crowe & Richard Smith, 1982 | 8m | |||
M3 | Fly by Night
| 7m | |||
The Saddle South Side Aphrodisiac Slab | |||||
7 | ★ Viagre Falls
| 10m | |||
11 | Aphrodisiac
| 10m | |||
12 | ★ Gigolo
| 10m | |||
9 | Eroticism
| 11m | |||
13 | Sexploitation
| 12m | |||
15 | Stud
| 14m | |||
12 | ★ Seamy Side of Life
| 14m | |||
The Saddle South Side Saddle Boulders | |||||
22 | ★★ Razor Blade Alley
FA: Russel Crowe & Tom Greenwood, 1992 | 11m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Mystery Climb One
| 12m, 2 | |||
25 | ★★ Cameo
Very thin line up middle of orange wall, brushing past the tree after mid-height. 2 FH. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1992 | 10m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ The Emperor's New Rope
Line up the left hand end of the face around right of Cameo. 2 BR. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1985 | 9m, 2 | |||
21 | Return of the Radule
Approx 3m right of Emperor's New Rope, up middle of face, using the bolts of Rush Job to the right. FA: Michael Woodrow & Rod McDoenut, 1991 | 8m | |||
15 | Rush Job
Right hand end of face, stepping up onto diagonal seam, up past 2 BRs. FA: Andrew Corlass, Gieser Smith & Peter Thomson, 1988 | 8m, 2 | |||
13 | Victim of Pleasure
Continuation to Rush Job - moving off top of face to wall on right and up past BR. FA: Russel Crowe & Kevin Lindorff, 1991 | 9m, 1 | |||
21 | ★★ Lauren
Approximately 30m around to the right of the Emperor's New Rope face is a small gully. Lauren takes right trending finger crack midway up gully on right hand wall. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1992 | 9m | |||
16 | This'll Do
| 12m | |||
14 | Picnic Basket
| 12m | |||
19 | Not Another Russell Name
Trad - of the no gear variety! Scramble further up the Lauren gully to a small open area, continuing straight ahead (eastwards) to the NARN block. NARN is the right hand arete. FA: Unknown | 9m | |||
15 | Mystery Climb Two
First some caving, then some climbing. Scramble/squeeze down into slot left of the NARN block. Climb slab past a manky, old, bent and twisted bolt. Maybe give it another twist for good luck! Trad anchor. | 8m, 1 | |||
13 | Hand-crack
| 8m | |||
The Saddle South Side Adam Block | |||||
24 | ★ Babylon by Bus
Arete left of Adam past BR and FH to horizontal break, exiting right. FA: Russel Crowe, 1991 | 16m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★★ Adam
The prominent left-trending crack in the middle of the block. Up to horizontal and onwards through offwidth crack in cap-block. FA: Alan Gledhill & Geoff Gledhill, 1969 FFA: Mike Law, 1981 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Abel
Bolted arete 10m right of Adam. FA: Peter Watson, Russel Crowe, Mark Buchanan & Hugh Hardwick, 1986 | 12m, 2 | |||
10 | Cain
First climb in the You Yangs. FA: Iain Sedgman, Philip Armstrong, Alan Kettle & Peter Watson, 1977 | 10m | |||
The Saddle South Side Reality Block | |||||
21 | Downtown Reality
Western face of block in front of Cynical Pinnacle - short hard line past 1BR. FA: Pete Stebbins, 1991 | 8m, 1 | |||
The Saddle South Side Cynical Pinnacle | |||||
22 | Sunset Arete
Arete on north western corner of block, passing 2 BRs to right of arete. FA: Wayne Maher & John Pawson, 1988 | 9m, 2 | |||
24 | ★ Pinnacle of Success
Arete on north eastern corner of block. Up to FH, passing left-trending seam and BR. DRBB up and left. FA: Mikl Law & Jim Thomas, 1981 | 11m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Cynical Pinnacle
3m left of POS take the face past BR to horizontal crack. Plug in an RP and continue upwards to second BR and summit DRBB. FA: Mikl Law & Jim Thomas, 1981 | 10m, 2 | |||
21 | Los Anos de Swing
Thin slabby line in middle of face on south side of block. 1 RB. FA: Mikl Law, 1982 | 8m, 1 | |||
21 | The Cutting Edge
Arete on south western corner of block. No bolts. | 8m | |||
The Saddle North Side Big Deal Block | |||||
18 | ★ Big Deal
| 8m | |||
25 | ★★ Molar Mono
2m right of Big Deal, up past the diagonal seams on techo crimps and a toothy mono. FA: Harold Ramsey, 2014 | 10m, 3 | |||
22 | Daggers at Dawn
| 10m | |||
The Saddle North Side Chinese Porcelain Block | |||||
8 | Silvia's Slab
| 10m | |||
18 | New Tricks
| 11m | |||
21 | ★ There's Life in the Old Dog Yet
| 14m | |||
9 | ★ Chinese Porcelain
| 16m | |||
13 | Blue Bay Blues
| 16m | |||
The Saddle North Side Cinema Slab | |||||
16 | Silence of the Limbs
| 13m | |||
16 | How to Make an American Wilt
| 13m | |||
16 | Zorba the Geek
| 10m | |||
18 | Picnic at Slanging Rock
| 13m | |||
15 | Journey to the Centre of the Mirth
| 11m | |||
9 | Boulevard of Broken Seams
| 10m | |||
9 | Dances With Wasps
| 8m | |||
The Saddle Bouldering | |||||
V0 | Arete V0
Small boulder next to road, easy stand-start | ||||
V3 | ★ Awkward Mantle
Direct Sit-start to the arete. You can do it both ways (L or R); both are worth doing if you like this kind of thing. | ||||
V0 | The Man who Loves Triangles
Start standing with matched hands on the right side of the arete. Move up the triangular arete, then mantel around the left. FA details can be updated if known. FA: Jamie, 2021 | 3m | |||
V0 | Jeff's Mantle
20m Uphill from the Font boulder is small arete. | ||||
V3 | ★ Slab Zero
Start 1 m left of Slab One. Left foot on start of diagonal seam close to the ground, avoid the pebbly left side of the boulder by all means and remain on the less featured part straight up. Only 4-5 foot moves but quite technical. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Slab One
Just uphill (On Contour) from the Font boulder is a short slab with a couple of good ones... This is straight up the middle; trickier than it looks. | 4m | |||
V1 | Slab Two
Lower angled slab a couple of metres R. | ||||
V6 | ★ Hanging Arete
The obvious hanging arete; standing start (careful rock is loose). | ||||
V8 | Hanging Arete Direct
Sit start the arete. Hard. | ||||
V5 | Lip Traverse
Been a while; but traverse the lip to join the hanging arete. Slightly contrived. | ||||
V7 | Frenchy Slab
Hard slab; increasing with difficulty towards the top. FA: Gregoire, 2007 | ||||
V2 | ★ Sidekick
Far easier; but tall slab L of Frenchy; Start just R of tree up against cliff; but beware, as you finish straight up above it. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Double Gaston Classic
Best problem here; although sit start is a bit bunched for some. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Double Gaston to Morning Glory
Start on Double Gaston Classic and reach right across into the first rail for High step to Glory and finish up that | ||||
V6 | ★ High Step to Glory
Sit start just R of DG Classic. Up to rail; then up to 2nd rail to top out. | ||||
V3 | ★ Jump It
Ok; we're really stretching the route naming now. Please feel free to change! Stand start at 'jug' on the R; then straight up. | ||||
V4 | ★ Sneaky Slant
On the downhill side of the boulder; stand start to rail; then L up arete. | ||||
V3 | Backside Slab
So-so slab on the L of the back of the 'Font' boulder. Trickier than it looks. | ||||
V2 | ★ Rail mantle
Stand start; mantle over the top. | ||||
V2 | Letterbox
Crimp to slanting juggy rail; then R to hidden letterbox. | ||||
V3 | Arete Slap n Tickle
Stand start; slap over the top and mantle out. | ||||
V2 | ★ Groovy
Groove on boulder directly uphill of the Font Boulder | ||||
V2 | ★ Hollow Boulder
Obvious flakes in the middle; should be ok; climb lightly. | ||||
V1 | Soft Edges
AKA Razor's edge. Edges L of the nose; a couple of lines possible. | ||||
V3 | Seamed
Seam on the nose of boulder. A good move or 3, it seamed ok. | ||||
V2 | LH Face
LH of the slab (Frontside) of the Project Boulder; starting about where the horizontal dyke meets the ground. | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Lumpy Seam
Classic diagonal seam. Highball. Pebbles are solid; but does not get easier towards the top. FA: Goshen Watts, 25 5월 2020 | 8m | |||
V3 | ★★ Bergschrund
Enough said. You know what to do. FA: Goshen Watts, 5월 2020 | ||||
V4 | Leading Edges
Hard start from edge on undercut nose. Make a few moves L; then straight up. |
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