루트들 Western Australia에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Up the round arete. Don’t use the bail scoop on the left.

Something something Danger Zone. Massive

Sit start and move up big rounded features.

Sit start with pockets and good foot. Straight up.

Same start as Flytanic but climb straight up and out.

Sit start at the obvious wavy overhanging vertical crack. Climb straight up and top out.

Start using the under cling in line with the tree, then to the rail just on the right, track right and follow the vertical crack just right of the bulge.

Start both hands in under cling, head straight up and stay right of buldge.

Sit start, pocket into left-hand side pull, then straight up and top out.

Location -15.773000,128.747000. Sit start, with the hands on the big ledge and a heel hock with the right foot. A very reachy move up to crack under the roof. Move along this crack to the final hold.

The best single pitch on the Ord - on borderline Arapilesean rock. Up twin cracks on slightly overhung rock, scramble out R for last 10m

Climbs the 'side face' of Jump Rock.

Overlaps / overhangs L of the Arete. Grade unsure.

Swim to the bottom of the falls then climb the blunt nose 2m L to obvious jump ledge. Good holds, moves & jump.

Only done to the slopers on the lip. Needs to be extended 2m by turning the lip and mantling onto the jumpers' ledge (if you find/pre-inspect the holds).

Pumpy, low level traverse across solid and waterwashed rock. Go all the way right and step down to boulder in the water, then head back on the lower line.

Great climb, in the best position on the wall. Traverse out right, and straight up the corner.

For if you're scared of the highballs. There's 2 hard moves to get out of the water (needs a good frog kick and a bit of a one armer), then jug rails to the as yet unsolved gorgeous blank bulge.

Starting for left heel hook to get out of the water trend left over blunt arretes following small holds, until hand transverse right with good hands, mantel when possible then easy over the lip.

FA (PITCHES 1-4) ROB WALL, INGVAR LIDMAN 2 MAY 2022

Pitch 5 Closed Project

https://robjwall.wordpress.com/2022/05/04/new-stirlings-route-castle-on-a-cloud/

P1 30m (21): Delicately up line of bolts (hangers required) to a DBB. P2 30m (18): Continue up and slightly left. Follow cleaned rock up some choss. Bolted all the way, so look hard for them before you start placing dodgy gear.

Can be done as one pitch, with some extended runners.

Start same as Brothels of Baghdad, but continue directly up centre line of 5 FH to DBB.

Between Ringmaster and Circus, Circus on the upper tier. Rap down to RH DBB – up to bolt common to CC and BL, up to second bolt common to CC and TW then trend L. Possibly the steepest 21 in the state!

From right belay bolts, trend right, and mantel small overhang to first bolt. Follow centre line of colts up very steep wall to DBB used for rap.

Deserves 2 stars, and may have gotten more difficult as holds have probably come off.

Leave the ground with long reaches to gain the thank god pocket. Fairly sustained after the crux with small crimps on powerful lunges depending on your size. 21 if you are a short arse. Bog on to the top.

Direct finish of One Crowded Hour by pulling through the bulge rather than going right.

Past Gold Top to the right, around the corner on the hanging face is Peyote. Start up gully system in corner and step onto face using pockets. Move onto face protected by a cam in first pocket. Head up face past one bolt to finish.

1. (12) Climb broken crack to ledge and traverse right to base of curving groove.

2. (21) Climb groove.

Groove/crack round the corner from Rapid Fire.

Where the original finishes right, move left and climb the thin diagonal line in the leaning headwall.

Layback flake at right hand end of crag.

Follow pocks up and left past bolt then straight up on good holds. Take the finger crack through the small roof above.

50 metres down slope from Controlled Burning is a small wall and on the left side of the arete is a cairn. From it clip the bolt, then proceed up face and right into corner.

Seam in the concave wall behind Beers, Steers and Queers and Trident. Start from the ledge.

Begin up crack as for Summit Lust. Break left onto wall. 1 bolt protects crux through roof.

The climb goes through the lower gully cliff and continues up the upper cliffs.

1. Climb the crack between the orange and white wall and into the gully proper

2. Climb the slim groove in the right wall of the gully and up to the steep orange buttress.

3. Hard moves onto the nose of buttress and head for very steep thin crack at left end of orange buttress.

Prominent short corner 10 metres right of Talisman.

Start 15 metres left of Trout Dentures start. The pitch takes a direct line to the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch of Trout Dentures. A bolt protects the moves over the bulge to gain the small corner and then a small ledge. Slab climbing on good holds leads to Trout Dentures belay ledge.

Gain the thin snaking crack line and jam the steep crack above.

A tough start, the leftward trending overlap crack at right side of triangular face just right of Maternal Instinct. Pull one roof of overlap after about 10 metres and follow crack and slabs to User Frenzy Belay. To descend continue up short corner and head right and up to escape into Karakoram Gully.

More climbing than most Peak Charles multi-pitch routes! On the northwest side of bluffs 20 metres from the north end. An obvious short orange corner with a traverse left at half height.

See Mini-guide: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/2014-Gibraltor-Rock-New-Routes-1-Warning.pdf

Start 10m left of Go the Dockers. Follow bolts to the DBB. The DBB is the first anchor of Painters and Dockers).

Smear!

Firslt line of bolts to the right of Old School chimney. Take small cams to protect crack at top.

Hard and dynamic start leads you to good holds and top of boulder.

Sit start left on up into high left gaston before transitioning left and up to finish with easy topout.

Start on horn (try no to dab on surrounding rocks) straight up arete. Beware the flake at the topout feels like it might break.

Start low on far right below arete. Stay lowing low along rails to good layback crimps then up to left edge and topout, best done like a beached whale.

Start as with Lonely Whale Low but stay one arete using rails for feet the top out as an awkward whale.

Starting in undercling jug under hole move through jugs and exit left.

As twins left but exit right.

Starting on the horn on the outside procede under arch and then out through the hole.

Big leanback jugs, cross into a pair of crimps then many flakes to topout. Beware some flakes on the right may come loose so stay left if possible.

Crumbly compression start bumping left until cross over with right to finish jug, topout not included.

Sit start left as another mediocre boulder stay low continue right until center then big move to right side pull and up to finish.

Sit start at the base of the obvious crack.

Sit start and follow crack line up before top out

Sit start on the bottom left jug/ledge and move up, entire face is in including both left and right arete. Tricky top out.

Sit start same lower left flake, move straight up and along top rail crimps. Avoid standing "Escape from Kyln", instead use smears as you work along the crimps to top out.

Sit start on low crimp, move through sequence of crimps on good feet then move left to the tooth on to top out.

Heady climbing up thin left trending crack. Bring micro nuts. Get up to big ledge then do some big moves to get up and over the obvious crack. Takes a BD 0.4 cam or smaller. Good gear available for the finish. 2BB.

On the boulder left of Platelet. Start on the jug above the roof, find the engagement-ring size crystal with your toe and crank. Hard first moves, easy top-out.

Start low matched on the good bit at the bottom of the arête. Use the good nobbins over the arête for your hands and keep your feet on the face until the top out. Bonus style points if you don't swing a leg over early.

Stand start. Move up crimpy breaks and escape right through the jugs early

Right side of arête to second bolt 1BB. High first bolt, bring mat, spotter, stick clip or confidence.

Crux moves onto face, then pleasant climbing on giant crystals, pinches and small edges. Three bolts to 1BB.

From the ground, use small holds and features to ascend to the top.

Start on sloping rail, traverse right then up with dynamic moves to a crimpy and somewhat sketchy topout.

Sit start on crimps up to rail and traverse right to topout.

Start as for The Black Dog, but from the pockets traverse right past the tree then top out through the bulge.

Avoids the fun part of Doggie Style but has the same slightly desperate finish.

Climb the arete and left face.

Sit start at the base of the obvious overhanging prow. Slap up to glory and an easy top out. Short and sweet - an instant classic!

Rounded arete

Stand start. Up the slab to the right of the groove.

Sit start. Traverse right then topout.

Stand start. Up trending right. https://vimeo.com/126374382

Sit start. Up the juggy prow. https://vimeo.com/126374382

Sit start. Up and left along the dong into an awkward topout. Avoid the boulder to the right.

Named after graffiti that was on the boulder from back in the day.

Stand start, up the obvious crack.

Stand start with the crimps on the left, long moves up with decent feet. Up the slab next to the path. High and easy. Not so easy to get off... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnhmankwUhs

Stand start. Up the slabbiest section of the boulder. Gets thin up high! https://youtu.be/hnhmankwUhs?t=90

Sit start on the right with right hand on obvious arete pinch. The original sitter. Adds a couple of harder moves on small holds.

Sit start on the left of the face to gain the prow and top out straight up. Slightly easier than the original sitter.

Sit start in the crack. Up the slopey bulges to topout straight up.

Stand start on crimps. Smear and mantle your way up the arete and onto the slab..

Climb the right arete and slab..

Sit start low with left hand in the pocket and right hand on the arete. Squeeze you way up on sharp crusty holds. Vomit when you get to the top.

Sit start. Traverse the rising arete rightwards.

Sit start with pockets. Up to jugs then onto the slab.

Stand start with right hand undercling and left hand jug.

Stand start with crimp on the face.

Stand start