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Mt Assiniboine Provincial Park Guide

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Cruz Kieran Norwood

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Table of contents

1. Mt Assiniboine Provincial Park 2 routes in Area

Summary:
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계절특성

모두 고전등반

1.1. Mt Assiniboine 2 routes in Area

Summary:

요약

Mount Assiniboine is a serious and often difficult mountain frequently underestimated. There is substantial exposure and rockfall hazard. In dry conditions, it is technically straightforward. More likely though, it will be snowed or iced up and the climbing will be very challenging. This is not a peak for beginner mountaineers or alpine climbers.

The most popular route on the 11,867ft. (3618m) the mountain is the North Ridge. This 3,000ft. ridge is steep and exposed without being too technically difficult. Initially, you will move up a series of gullies and climb a rock band before reaching the ridge crest which is followed to the ‘Red Band’. Once there you will be climbing fifth class rock for several hundred feet to the corniced summit. The view from the summit is truly incredible.

역사

“In 1901, Edward Whymper brought Swiss guides to Canada. Three serious attempts on Assiniboine had already been repulsed. All the higher peaks in the Canadian Rockies were still unclimbed too. The arrival of the alpine superstars created a stir in the competitive world of Canadian peak bagging. No worries! Mr Whymper was reluctant to leave the good life of the Lake Louise/CPR climbing scene (Chris Jones, Climbing in North America, 1971).

The Swiss guides and James Outram couldn't let such opportunities slip by. Whilst Whymper stayed in Lake Louise, Mr Outram politely "borrowed" Mr Whymper's frustrated guides and the enthusiastic team SENT! First, they made it up Assiniboine by traversing to the backside and discovering an easier route (SW Face, 4th class). Then they made sure to tick the route everyone else had been trying, the North Ridge (5.5x, onsight downclimb, 1903)”.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North Face

Mt Assiniboine is one of Canada’s most famous mountains, often nicknamed and compared to as the “Matterhorn” of the Rockies. The north face route is not much different to the popular North Ridge route (5.5). With lots of rock fall and extreme exposure, this a serious big mountain venture, so cold temperatures and early starts are a must. Normally done as a 3 day outing, parties with high fitness do it as a 48 hour slog. At 3,618 m (11,870 ft), it is the highest peak in the Southern Continental Ranges of the Canadian Rockies. Mount Assiniboine rises 2086m in prominence- making it unbelievably sheer.

FFA: Chris Jones, Yvon Chouinard & Joe Faint, 1967

AI2 - 3 전통등반 700m, 14
2 North Ridge

The standard route on Assiniboine was climbed by William Douglas and a strong team of guides. Christian Hasler had already descended the route two years before. Hasler was one of Whymper's guides from the Matterhorn, thirty-eight years earlier. (Chris Jones, Climbing in North America, 1976)(Randy Morse, The Mountains of Canada, 1978)

Gmoser's Highway ("mosers") is the start of serious terrain. I once watched some gnarly East Face candidates rappel the scary snow gully to climbers left, after using Gmoser's on the way up. They had huge packs. I don't recommend the gully. Instead, lower your big pack down the upper headwall, 30' of steep jugs (5.0) with a landing that might save you. The crux of the lower traverse is the less difficult, but more exposed. A roped fall could be very dangerous. Have the rack ready, even though a fixed pin may be found at the low end belay.

30km’s into and the route out is 32.5 kilometers and involves 2420 of vertical gained and 5500 feet of descending on the day.

FFA: Christian Hasler & James Outram, 1901

5.5 전통등반 700m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.5 North Ridge 전통등반 700m 1.1. Mt Assiniboine
AI2 - 3 North Face 전통등반 700m, 14 1.1. Mt Assiniboine
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