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Stanley Parkway Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Josh Worley Adam Straw Kieran Nick Baggaley CElliott Lewis Michael Flynn khabarakh Bec Perky

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Stanley Parkway 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

계절특성

빙벽등반 그리고 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 51.193305, -116.108397

1.1. Haffner Creek 27 routes in Area

Summary:
모두 빙벽등반

Lat / Long: 51.173063, -116.103874

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Norepinephrine

Starting on the trail before you get to the main ice flow, climb the chimney-like corner to a ledge, then torque up the thin crack to the anchor.

M5 빙벽 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Depends M5 빙벽 15m
3 Main Ice Wall WI3 - 4 빙벽 12m
4 Sleek M8 빙벽 18m
5 Boyd Mystery M8 빙벽 18m
6 Green Hanger M8 빙벽 18m
7 Half n Half

First bolted line at Haffner. M7 in lean years when the ice doesn't hang over the roof. Good holds lead up a blunt arête, then launch into the 45 degree overhang and ice.

FA: Sean Isaac, 1997

M7 빙벽 20m, 5
8 Mojo M8 빙벽 20m
9 The Girl Without Tits M9 빙벽 20m
10 Buzz Blanc M9 빙벽 20m
11 Oscar M9 빙벽 15m
12 Fight Club M8 빙벽 15m
13 Sunday Morning Blumpy M8 빙벽 15m
14 Mini Me M7 빙벽 15m
15 Shagadelic

Climb up to crack below grassy/ice ledge. Flop over and continue up and right in corner to the ice. Rap off two bolts set back above the climb

FA: Jim Gudjonson & Sean Isaac, 2000

M6 빙벽 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Californication

Climb the icy ramp to gain the wall. Straight up the rock and over the ice at the top. Rap off two bolts set back above the climb.

FA: Eric Dumerac & Guy Edwards, 1998

M7 빙벽 15m, 4
17 Half a Gronk

Up 5 bolts in the steep left facing corner to the ice up top.

M6 빙벽 15m, 5
18 Slinky

2 Bolts protect the footless moves onto a series of freehanging pillars

M6 빙벽 15m, 2
19 The Flake Route

Jam up the right side of the conspicuous flake, then step left onto the ice clipping a bolt along the way. 2# 3# cams in the flake or a massive sling on top.

M5 빙벽 15m, 1
20 Main Ice Wall Right WI4 빙벽 15m
21 Chai Master

From the top of the "flake" drytool the steep wall above through 6 bolts.

M7 빙벽 20m, 6
22 Dans Le Brun

Start on frozen log. Most seasons the ice covers this route.

M6 빙벽 25m, 3
23 Super Terrific Happy Hour

Seep and bouldery to a thin smear and big sledge. Continue up ice and rock to another ledge. V thread anchor or traverse right to the "Swank" bolted anchor. Recommended pre clipped 3.

M9 빙벽 15m, 6
24 Swank

Beefcake through the initial roof section off the ground then manage the pump through easier moves to the top. Double bolt anchor.

M8 빙벽 15m, 6
25 Swanz M8 빙벽 15m
26 Good Girls Gone Bad M8 빙벽 11m
27 Slim Pickens M8 빙벽 18m

1.2. Marble Canyon 1 route in Area

Summary:
모두 빙벽등반

Lat / Long: 51.194749, -116.133555

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tokkum Pole

Stellar and sustained pillar in the beautiful Marble Canyon.

WI5+ 빙벽 30m

1.3. Stanley Headwall 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 51.181759, -116.055436

요약

Rock climbing in the summer and world class ice and mixed in the winter. All in a stunning setting. What more could you want? Climbs listed from left to right.

접근 문제들

Part of the Kootenay Natonal Park.

접근

Park at the Stanley Glacier parking lot and follow the trail for approximately 40 minutes. Where appropriate cur across the talus slope heading towards the rock between the waterfalls that form Nemises and Suffer Machine.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trilobite

Left of Beerophobia. Climbs well if you find all the moves.

5.10d 스포츠 클라이밍 15m, 7
2 Unknown 5.11 스포츠 클라이밍
3 Beerophobia 5.11b 스포츠 클라이밍 25m, 9
4 Exercauser

Just left of the massive right facing corner. Fun and sustained.

5.11d 스포츠 클라이밍 18m, 8
5 Kingdom of the Blind 5.11d 스포츠 클라이밍 28m, 12
6 Faith Healer 5.12c 스포츠 클라이밍 28m, 12
7 Mind Bomb 5.12c 스포츠 클라이밍 30m, 14
8 Soul Mining 5.12b 스포츠 클라이밍 28m, 11
9 Violence of Truth

Sustained and cruxy sequences down low to a flat jug then a powerful boulder problem. Fun climbing to the chains.

5.12c 스포츠 클라이밍 18m, 7
10 King of the Bongo

Follow a right facing corner leftwards to a crux pulling onto the slab and tricky to the anchors.

5.12c 스포츠 클라이밍 27m, 11
11 Army of Darkness

Climbs straight up the black streak in the middle of the wall to the left of Bombtrack. A hard section leads to sustained climbing to a rest before the repoint crux guarding the anchors.

5.13b 스포츠 클라이밍 32m, 13
12 Bombtrack

Starts in a small left facing corner with a fixed draw above. Fun climbing split by good rests.

5.12b 스포츠 클라이밍 28m, 10
13 Killer Queen 5.12c 스포츠 클라이밍 28m, 14
14 Clockwork Orange

Starts in a shallow right facing corner and climbing up through some beautiful yellow/orange rock.

5.12a 스포츠 클라이밍
15 Distance to Empty 5.12b 스포츠 클라이밍 27m, 10
16 Get yourself connected

Fun and sustained climbing up an amazing yellow streak of rock to a crux right at the top!

5.13a 스포츠 클라이밍 25m, 10
17 Element of Crime 5.12a 스포츠 클라이밍 23m, 10
18 Vielfrass 5.11d 스포츠 클라이밍 22m, 9
19 Out for Blood

Just left of the flake and left facing corner on the far right side of the crag. Super fun gym like climbing.

5.10c 스포츠 클라이밍 21m, 7
20 Gargoyle

Right most climb on the wall. Start on the large boulder below a flake.

5.9 스포츠 클라이밍 25m
21 Nemesis

Stanley Headwall area classic

WI6 빙벽 130m, 3
22 Killer Pillar WI6 빙벽
23 Suffer Machine WI5 M7 빙벽 130m, 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
WI3 - 4 Main Ice Wall 빙벽 12m 1.1. Haffner Creek
5.9 Gargoyle 스포츠 클라이밍 25m 1.3. Stanley Headwall
WI4 Main Ice Wall Right 빙벽 15m 1.1. Haffner Creek
M5 Depends 빙벽 15m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Norepinephrine 빙벽 15m, 5 1.1. Haffner Creek
The Flake Route 빙벽 15m, 1 1.1. Haffner Creek
5.10c Out for Blood 스포츠 클라이밍 21m, 7 1.3. Stanley Headwall
5.10d Trilobite 스포츠 클라이밍 15m, 7 1.3. Stanley Headwall
M6 Dans Le Brun 빙벽 25m, 3 1.1. Haffner Creek
Half a Gronk 빙벽 15m, 5 1.1. Haffner Creek
Shagadelic 빙벽 15m, 5 1.1. Haffner Creek
Slinky 빙벽 15m, 2 1.1. Haffner Creek
5.11b Beerophobia 스포츠 클라이밍 25m, 9 1.3. Stanley Headwall
WI5+ Tokkum Pole 빙벽 30m 1.2. Marble Canyon
5.11 Unknown 스포츠 클라이밍 1.3. Stanley Headwall
5.11d Exercauser 스포츠 클라이밍 18m, 8 1.3. Stanley Headwall
Kingdom of the Blind 스포츠 클라이밍 28m, 12 1.3. Stanley Headwall
Vielfrass 스포츠 클라이밍 22m, 9 1.3. Stanley Headwall
WI5 M7 Suffer Machine 빙벽 130m, 4 1.3. Stanley Headwall
M7 Californication 빙벽 15m, 4 1.1. Haffner Creek
Chai Master 빙벽 20m, 6 1.1. Haffner Creek
Half n Half 빙벽 20m, 5 1.1. Haffner Creek
Mini Me 빙벽 15m 1.1. Haffner Creek
5.12a Clockwork Orange 스포츠 클라이밍 1.3. Stanley Headwall
Element of Crime 스포츠 클라이밍 23m, 10 1.3. Stanley Headwall
5.12b Bombtrack 스포츠 클라이밍 28m, 10 1.3. Stanley Headwall
Distance to Empty 스포츠 클라이밍 27m, 10 1.3. Stanley Headwall
Soul Mining 스포츠 클라이밍 28m, 11 1.3. Stanley Headwall
WI6 Killer Pillar 빙벽 1.3. Stanley Headwall
Nemesis 빙벽 130m, 3 1.3. Stanley Headwall
5.12c Faith Healer 스포츠 클라이밍 28m, 12 1.3. Stanley Headwall
Killer Queen 스포츠 클라이밍 28m, 14 1.3. Stanley Headwall
King of the Bongo 스포츠 클라이밍 27m, 11 1.3. Stanley Headwall
Mind Bomb 스포츠 클라이밍 30m, 14 1.3. Stanley Headwall
Violence of Truth 스포츠 클라이밍 18m, 7 1.3. Stanley Headwall
M8 Boyd Mystery 빙벽 18m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Fight Club 빙벽 15m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Good Girls Gone Bad 빙벽 11m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Green Hanger 빙벽 18m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Mojo 빙벽 20m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Sleek 빙벽 18m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Slim Pickens 빙벽 18m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Sunday Morning Blumpy 빙벽 15m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Swank 빙벽 15m, 6 1.1. Haffner Creek
Swanz 빙벽 15m 1.1. Haffner Creek
5.13a Get yourself connected 스포츠 클라이밍 25m, 10 1.3. Stanley Headwall
5.13b Army of Darkness 스포츠 클라이밍 32m, 13 1.3. Stanley Headwall
M9 Buzz Blanc 빙벽 20m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Oscar 빙벽 15m 1.1. Haffner Creek
Super Terrific Happy Hour 빙벽 15m, 6 1.1. Haffner Creek
The Girl Without Tits 빙벽 20m 1.1. Haffner Creek
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