A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Josh Worley Adam Straw Kieran Nick Baggaley CElliott Lewis Simon Dale Michael Flynn khabarakh Bec Perky
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Stanley Parkway
51 in Crag
- 1.1. Haffner Creek 27 in Area
- 1.2. Marble Canyon 1 in Area
- 1.3. Stanley Headwall 23 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Stanley Parkway 51 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
빙벽등반 그리고 스포츠 클라이밍
Lat / Long: 51.193305, -116.108397
1.1. Haffner Creek 27 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
모두 빙벽등반
Lat / Long: 51.173063, -116.103874
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Norepinephrine
Starting on the trail before you get to the main ice flow, climb the chimney-like corner to a ledge, then torque up the thin crack to the anchor. | M5 | 15m, 5 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | Depends | M5 | 15m | |||||
3 | ★★ Main Ice Wall | WI3 - 4 | 12m | |||||
4 | ★ Sleek | M8 | 18m | |||||
5 | Boyd Mystery | M8 | 18m | |||||
6 | Green Hanger | M8 | 18m | |||||
7 |
Half n Half
First bolted line at Haffner. M7 in lean years when the ice doesn't hang over the roof. Good holds lead up a blunt arête, then launch into the 45 degree overhang and ice. FA: Sean Isaac, 1997 | M7 | 20m, 5 | |||||
8 | Mojo | M8 | 20m | |||||
9 | The Girl Without Tits | M9 | 20m | |||||
10 | Buzz Blanc | M9 | 20m | |||||
11 | Oscar | M9 | 15m | |||||
12 | Fight Club | M8 | 15m | |||||
13 | Sunday Morning Blumpy | M8 | 15m | |||||
14 | Mini Me | M7 | 15m | |||||
15 |
★★ Shagadelic
Climb up to crack below grassy/ice ledge. Flop over and continue up and right in corner to the ice. Rap off two bolts set back above the climb FA: Jim Gudjonson & Sean Isaac, 2000 | M6 | 15m, 5 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 |
★★ Californication
Climb the icy ramp to gain the wall. Straight up the rock and over the ice at the top. Rap off two bolts set back above the climb. FA: Eric Dumerac & Guy Edwards, 1998 | M7 | 15m, 4 | |||||
17 |
★★ Half a Gronk
Up 5 bolts in the steep left facing corner to the ice up top. | M6 | 15m, 5 | |||||
18 |
Slinky
2 Bolts protect the footless moves onto a series of freehanging pillars | M6 | 15m, 2 | |||||
19 |
The Flake Route
Jam up the right side of the conspicuous flake, then step left onto the ice clipping a bolt along the way. 2# 3# cams in the flake or a massive sling on top. | M5 | 15m, 1 | |||||
20 | ★ Main Ice Wall Right | WI4 | 15m | |||||
21 |
Chai Master
From the top of the "flake" drytool the steep wall above through 6 bolts. | M7 | 20m, 6 | |||||
22 |
Dans Le Brun
Start on frozen log. Most seasons the ice covers this route. | M6 | 25m, 3 | |||||
23 |
Super Terrific Happy Hour
Seep and bouldery to a thin smear and big sledge. Continue up ice and rock to another ledge. V thread anchor or traverse right to the "Swank" bolted anchor. Recommended pre clipped 3. | M9 | 15m, 6 | |||||
24 |
★★ Swank
Beefcake through the initial roof section off the ground then manage the pump through easier moves to the top. Double bolt anchor. | M8 | 15m, 6 | |||||
25 | Swanz | M8 | 15m | |||||
26 | Good Girls Gone Bad | M8 | 11m | |||||
27 | Slim Pickens | M8 | 18m |
1.2. Marble Canyon 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
모두 빙벽등반
Lat / Long: 51.194749, -116.133555
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Tokkum Pole
Stellar and sustained pillar in the beautiful Marble Canyon. | WI5+ | 30m |
1.3. Stanley Headwall 23 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍
Lat / Long: 51.181759, -116.055436
요약
Rock climbing in the summer and world class ice and mixed in the winter. All in a stunning setting. What more could you want? Climbs listed from left to right.
접근 문제들
Part of the Kootenay Natonal Park.
접근
Park at the Stanley Glacier parking lot and follow the trail for approximately 40 minutes. Where appropriate cur across the talus slope heading towards the rock between the waterfalls that form Nemises and Suffer Machine.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Trilobite
Left of Beerophobia. Climbs well if you find all the moves. | 5.10d | 15m, 7 | |||
2 | Unknown | 5.11 | ||||
3 | ★★ Beerophobia | 5.11b | 25m, 9 | |||
4 |
★★ Exercauser
Just left of the massive right facing corner. Fun and sustained. | 5.11d | 18m, 8 | |||
5 | ★★ Kingdom of the Blind | 5.11d | 28m, 12 | |||
6 | ★★ Faith Healer | 5.12c | 28m, 12 | |||
7 | ★★ Mind Bomb | 5.12c | 30m, 14 | |||
8 | Soul Mining | 5.12b | 28m, 11 | |||
9 |
★★★ Violence of Truth
Sustained and cruxy sequences down low to a flat jug then a powerful boulder problem. Fun climbing to the chains. | 5.12c | 18m, 7 | |||
10 |
★★★ King of the Bongo
Follow a right facing corner leftwards to a crux pulling onto the slab and tricky to the anchors. | 5.12c | 27m, 11 | |||
11 |
★★★ Army of Darkness
Climbs straight up the black streak in the middle of the wall to the left of Bombtrack. A hard section leads to sustained climbing to a rest before the repoint crux guarding the anchors. | 5.13b | 32m, 13 | |||
12 |
★★★ Bombtrack
Starts in a small left facing corner with a fixed draw above. Fun climbing split by good rests. | 5.12b | 28m, 10 | |||
13 | Killer Queen | 5.12c | 28m, 14 | |||
14 |
Clockwork Orange
Starts in a shallow right facing corner and climbing up through some beautiful yellow/orange rock. | 5.12a | ||||
15 | Distance to Empty | 5.12b | 27m, 10 | |||
16 |
★★★ Get yourself connected
Fun and sustained climbing up an amazing yellow streak of rock to a crux right at the top! | 5.13a | 25m, 10 | |||
17 | ★★★ Element of Crime | 5.12a | 23m, 10 | |||
18 | ★★ Vielfrass | 5.11d | 22m, 9 | |||
19 |
★★★ Out for Blood
Just left of the flake and left facing corner on the far right side of the crag. Super fun gym like climbing. | 5.10c | 21m, 7 | |||
20 |
★ Gargoyle
Right most climb on the wall. Start on the large boulder below a flake. | 5.9 | 25m | |||
21 |
Nemesis
Stanley Headwall area classic | WI6 | 130m, 3 | |||
22 | Killer Pillar | WI6 | ||||
23 | Suffer Machine | WI5 M7 | 130m, 4 |