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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
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Copa Cabana | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Surfing OOSA
FA: Paulina Sleeman & Kelly Fleck, 2006 | 4 | |||
5.11d | California Dreamin'
Start off the ground not the boulder for full value. (Make sure your belayer is paying attention between 2nd and 3rd bolt) FA: Paulina Sleeman, 2007 | 3 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Teacher's Pet
Stick clip the second bolt and consider extending the draws on bolt 3. FA: Kelly Fleck, 2006 | 4 | |||
5.11c | Sugar Momma
Bolts and gear. Face climb to an obvious roof crack. FA: Kelly Fleck, 2006 | 3 | |||
Open Project 1
| |||||
5.13b | ★★ Diddler on the Roof
7 bolts. Go direct through the roof. Roof has a glue in bolt. FA: Kelly Fleck, 2007 | 7 | |||
5.13b/c | ★★ Let's not force it
Right of Big Joe, Climb the first 3 bolts of the project line to finish on the anchors of Diddler in the Roof. Starting hold is high (7 feet?), Hard boulder problem to start. Crimpy FA: Louis Rainville, 2008 | ||||
5.14a/b | ★★ Open Project #2
Right of Big Joe! High starting hold (7 feet?) PROJECT | ||||
5.13c | ★★★ Big Joe
Short and Powerful FA: Jenny Campton, 2007 | ||||
5.13d | ★★ The King
Shares first bolt of Big Joe and then goes left. FA: Félicien Roy, 6 9월 2019 | 7m | |||
5.12c | Get 'Er Done
Really nice boulder problem crux! (you can link up the start of Original route and the end of this one for a nice 5.10b) FA: Kelly Fleck, 2007 | ||||
5.10a | ★ Original Route
FA: P Delaney | 2 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Good Vibrations
Classic line but stick clip to second bolt to avoid a bad fall! FA: Paulina Sleeman, 2007 | ||||
5.12a/b | ★★ Alcatraz
Climb on vertical wall to spicy finish FA: Louis Rainville, 2008 | ||||
5.13b/c | ★★ Escaping Alcatraz
Climb through roof Alcatraz and then the extension to the next set of anchors. Some very small crimps after the first set of anchors. FA: Joe skopec | ||||
5.13a | ★★★ Salut Steve | ||||
5.14b | ★★★ Salut Ashoka
Climb salut Steve and then do a v10/11 boulder problem to the next set of anchors. FA: Joe skopec | ||||
5.11d | ★★★ Leap of Faith
Can you say "Dyno?" FA: Christine Jamieson, 2007 | ||||
5.12c | Lock, Stock and Two Smokin' Barrels
Stellar roof crack! FA: Michelle Birch, 2007 | 2 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ All Mixed Up
Very easy climbing to a high first bolt (optional gear) leads to super cool campus moves across a steep wall. Ultra classic for the grade. FA: Jenny Campton, 2007 | ||||
5.10d | Raven Lunatics
Pitch 1: Start underneath the right side of the large roof. Climb up a corner to a horizontal crack that takes you right; underneath an overhang, to a slab and anchors beside a pine tree. Pitch 2: Climb behind the tree and follow the obvious leftward traverse, past a piton to the bottom of a large overhanging chimney and crack system. Belay. Pitch 3: Climb the chimney and crack to pine trees at the top. Walk down to the left. FA: R Halka, J Cotter & S Adcock | 3 | |||
5.11b | Ol' Dirty Bastard
Bolts & gear. Start at a small overhang and climb the overhang then traverse left to some discontinuous cracks to a left facing corner, climb the corner to the top. FA: D Peabody, 2007 | ||||
★★ Boulder End 1
Start Standing and climb up using the sweet feature finish on jugs to down climb to the left | |||||
★★ Boulder End 2
Start Standing and climb up using the sweet feature finish on jugs to down climb to the left | |||||
Down Under | |||||
5.10d/11a | ★★ Price of Business
Climb most Left route on the wall FA: 1997 | 6 | |||
5.13a/b | ★★ Malzieth With Business
Finish on price of business. Easier finish FA: 2021 | 13m, 6 | |||
5.13a/b | ★ Malzieth
hard crux to finish on easier climbing for Beta of the crux video here FA: 1991 | 5 | |||
5.13b | ★ Malzeit into gravity
start on malzheit and after the crux move little right to finish on anti gravity. more sustained FA: Louis Rainville, 2008 | ||||
5.12b/c | Antizieth
start on anti gravity and move little left after 4th bolt to finish on easier climbing FA: Louis Rainville, 2008 | ||||
5.12c/d | ★★★ Anti-Gravity
Climb the beautiful lay back feature and finish on tricky top FA: 1996 | 4 | |||
5.11a/b | ★★ Slovak & Grit
Start on Slovak just left of the beast but traverse Right (aftet 2nd bolt)to finish on Anchors of true grit FA: 5월 2021 | ||||
5.13a/b C | ★★★ Slovak & Grit to Beast
Do Slovak & Grit but finish at the top of the Beast | ||||
5.13b/c | ★★ The Beast from Anti-G
Climb the start of Anti-Gravity to traverse right to finish on The Beast | ||||
5.15 | ★ (project)
This is most likely impossible. In the overhang there is no real hold for a stretch of 10 feet. Good luck! Maybe first V16 on rope in Canada | 5 | |||
5.13a | The Return of Gravity
Start on Exodus and link into Anti-Gravity. Most sustained route of downunder. | ||||
5.13b/c | ★★ The Beast
The longest route at Down Under, The Beast is also the most difficult free climb in the area and, at the time it was first climbed (1998), one of the hardest in the province. Its line is dictated by the elegant prow overlooking the steepest section of the crag. this climbing is harder if short FA: Etienne Poirier, 1998 | 7 | |||
5.12d/13a | ★★ Exodus
After the 4th bolt of The Beast, step right to the anchors of True Grit. for beta video see here FA: 1999 | 5 | |||
5.13a/b | ★ True Beast
climb true grit and finish on anchor of the beast FA: Louis Rainville, 2008 | ||||
5.12a | ★★ True Grit
Climb obvious Crack to finish on tricky top FA: Michele Elstone, 1997 | 11m, 4 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ El Ninjo
Doesn't use the big edge to the left. | 12m, 4 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Hot Enough For Ya
Just left of Sausages be ready for crux at 3 bolt | 12m, 4 | |||
5.10a/b | ★★ Warm Sausages
Start on Big jugs of el nino. Move up and right to finish Sausages FA: 1995 | ||||
5.12a | Wieners Direct
Climb Sausages and keep climbing straight after the third draw on crimps. | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages
Probably the most climbed-on route at Down Under, often used as a warm-up. Below and to the right of the small cave at the top is an interesting no-hands rest. | 12m, 5 | |||
5.11b | ★ Catwoman
A rather unsustained climb. You might want a nut in the bottom crack. | 9m, 4 | |||
V11 | ★ (project 2)
Project squeezed in between Catwoman and Pizza Slut. Hard Dyno to finish on easier climbing. | 4 | |||
5.12d/13a | ★★ Pizza Slut
just left of Pieta de roma, short and powerful. Back in those days this was done without using holds from Pieta de roma. Perfectly alright if you want to use them! FA: George hack, 2000 | 9m, 4 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Pieta di Roma
Stick clip? 3 bolts for this one. Gym like climb! FA: 1998 | 11m, 3 | |||
5.11b | caterpilar
start on pieta de roma and finish on sausages FA: Louis Rainville, 2006 | ||||
5.11a/b | ★★ Pieta's Wife
Start on Pieta de Roma and finish on your wife. Little zig zag but different, move right after 1st bolt. FA: 2020 | ||||
5.12c | FLQ (Zoof)
start beside pieta de roma avoiding big holds of pieta de roma. using pinchs and crimps move just right and after 2nd botl line is distinct. v4 into 11 climbing into v5 ish. FA: Louis Rainville, 2000 | 4 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Your Wife
| 9m, 4 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Your Wife (Direct)
Climb a few harder moves on the face to continue on Your wife. try to avoid big flake out left to start FA: 2000 | 4 | |||
5.10d | ★ Gabby
First route on the right side of the wall FA: 1991 | 3 | |||
V10 | ★★★ The Slide
Start low in the cave with a right hand pinch and left on undercling beside like in the video. Starting higher will make it easier. Video https://youtu.be/3biTnptxYOQ FA: Louis Rainville, 2008 | ||||
Proj Emergency
V10 Dyno ?? Boulder underneath is out! | |||||
Proj Urgence
V13? Sloper project short and powerful!! Campus? Heal hook? | |||||
Eastern Block | |||||
5.9 | ★ (unkown)
Bolt line left of "Ethics Police". High first bolt, but could maybe take gear at start? Beware the top half of this climb gets hard fast and it can be tempting to travel off route to the sides. Beware, if you travel too far this could result in a nasty swing if on lead. | 14m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★ Ethics Police
Climb up over a section of fractured rock to smoother slab then a small oval cave. Continue up past the cave to the top anchors. (Rap rings.) Very high first bolt -- gear nice at the start, but not needed thereafter. Can be climbed sport if you don't mind the high-ball start. FA: S. Montgomery, 1992 | 16m, 4 | |||
5.9 | ★ (unknown 2)
Bolt route squeezed in between "Ethics Police" and "Mr Clean". Occasionally borrows holds from each. Goes at about 5.9 if you wander around a bit. Direct finish, up the smooth slab, probably harder, maybe 5.11ish? | 16m, 5 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean
In the lower part of the cliff there is a nearly vertical about 9" wide pink dike that protrudes out from the rest of the cliff by an inch or two, and a bolt line running up it. Mr Clean climbs the dike, and face above, to anchors. FA: B. Winsborrow, 1992 | 16m, 5 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Temptation
Runs parallel to Mr Clean up the blank slab to its right. FA: Peter Slivka, 1992 | 16m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★ Death by Maboola
FA: K. Mkulash, 1993 | 14m, 4 | |||
5.10c | ★ The Slide
FA: Peter Slivka, 1992 | 13m, 4 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Coda
This wanders up the water streak on the right side of the cliff. FA: B. Winsborrow, 1992 | 13m, 4 | |||
5.6 | ★ (unknown 3)
Short route at the far right end of the cliff. Nice warm-up for the fairly stiff 5.8 routes on the rest of the cliff. | 12m, 3 |
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