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Le fou 암벽등반 31 루트들 에서의 절벽

31
YDS
5.45.65.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c5.13a

계절특성

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설명

The base of the fou slopes upwards from right to left, and the approach starts at the base -- so the first climbs you see are the last ones in the list.

Many of the climbs are single pitch -- but, above the lower face, there is a defnite ledge with a couple bumps, then upper walls. This does mean there are a few multi-pitch climbs, generally totalling up to 60m.

접근 문제들 Montagne d'Argent으로부터 상속된

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $14 as of summer 2021, and yearly memberships ($70 as of 2021). Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members of certain sections may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

접근

Follow the path out the right side of the welcome area, until you see a sign for Le Fou at a trail branching off to the left. The cliff is just visible through the trees from the main trail, though some of the upper parts may be more visible.

About 15 minutes.

하강시 주의점

Generally lower from anchors.

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안내책들

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트
1
5.4 fille du roi 전통등반 15m
2
5.9 ★★ Boeing 스포츠 클라이밍 12m, 6

At the top end of the fou, look for the flake bolted to the wall.

3
5.9 ★★★ Cracker Joe 전통등반 11m

This is the obvious left-leaning ramp with a crack running up the right-side of the crack. It protects very well.

4
5.10d ★★ Exacto 스포츠 클라이밍 15m, 6

Start up the crack of Cracker Joe, then traverse right with a good under-cling to the arete with lovely flakes up the arete.

5
5.11b ★★ Twins Tower Nord 스포츠 클라이밍 16m, 6
6
5.11b ★★★ Twins Tower Sud 스포츠 클라이밍 16m, 7
7
5.12b Siege ejectable 스포츠 클라이밍 17m, 6

The thinnest line at the Fou crag.

8
5.11c Foubrak 혼합 고전등반 20m, 4
9
5.11a Lapedioni 혼합 고전등반 35m, 8
10
5.11b ★ Quantum Plouk 스포츠 클라이밍 17m, 4
11
5.10d Anubis 스포츠 클라이밍 25m, 4
12
5.10b ★★ Long Life 혼합 고전등반 30m, 5
13
5.8 ★ Tranquilos 스포츠 클라이밍 25m, 5

Starts as per Long Life, then branches right after the first bolt.

14
5.11d Super Bam 스포츠 클라이밍 30m, 3
15
5.8 ★ La petite Delphine 혼합 고전등반 50m, 2, 5
1 5.8
2 5.7

Climbs the arete left of the left-leaning chimney/wide crack.

16
5.9 ★ La valse des retraités 혼합 고전등반 45m, 2, 14
1 5.7
2 5.9

Starts in a low chimney that narrows as it leans up and leftwards, then pulls up onto the slab to the right of the chimney.

Bolts: 8, 6

FA: Gaétan Castilloux

17
5.11b Merlin 스포츠 클라이밍 20m, 6
18
5.11 Crystaligne 스포츠 클라이밍 20m, 6
19
5.12a Womatagna 스포츠 클라이밍
20
5.10b ★★ Maudit Fou 혼합 고전등반 60m, 3, 13
21
5.10b ★★ Maudit Fou - Pitch 1 스포츠 클라이밍

The first pitch of Maudit Fou is often climbed as an independent climb.

22
5.11b ★ Lollypops 스포츠 클라이밍 60m
23
5.9 ★ Lollypops - Pitch 1 스포츠 클라이밍 9

The first pitch of Lollypops is often climbed as an independent climb.

24
5.9 ★★ Krakatoa 스포츠 클라이밍 25m, 6

The wide crack at the top of the cliff. An alternate finish for "Le centenaire" or "Lollypops".

If you skip the final bolts to belay off a tree, you can go about 7 meters climbers left to another set of rap bolts. You can do a full rap to the ground with 2x60m.

Set: José Dionisio

25
5.8 ★★ Le centenaire 스포츠 클라이밍 75m, 3, 8

3 pitches with ledges along the way.

Pitch 2 is very short, and the obvious line continues up and left to Krakatoa. For the actual 3rd pitch of Le centenaire, turn right along the ledge just below the final face and traverse past some trees to another bolted anchor.

Bolts: 6, 3, 8.

FA: Gaétan Castilloux & René Laplante, 2003

26
5.10d Directe du Fou 혼합 고전등반 20m, 5
27
5.8 ★★ Diagonale du fou 혼합 고전등반 60m, 2, 5

FA: Gaetant & Nancy

28
5.10b ★ fou du roi 혼합 고전등반 20m, 5

FA: José Dionisio et Anne-Marie Cournoyer

29
5.13b Jipifer 스포츠 클라이밍 20m, 6
30
5.10b ★★★ Coeur vaillant 전통등반 20m

Start up a short finger crack then follow it to the right and then straight up. There are no bolts (as opposed to the guidebook's description) but there is a bolted anchor.

31
5.9 ★★★ L'entonnoir 전통등반 25m

Start just below the obvious roof formation and follow the right-leaning crack to it. Go around to the right and keep following the crack to a tree. Since there isn't a dedicated anchor for this route (or any bolts), you may stop and build an anchor on the big pine tree. Another option would be to top off at the permanent safety line and hike off.

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부근의 상징들

5.8 ★★ Le centenaire
5.9 ★★ Krakatoa
5.11b ★★★ Twins Tower Sud

사진들 모든 사진들 훑어보기

지역의 사진을 업로드하세요

★★ Le centenaire 5.8 - Scramble in Le Centenaire

★★ Maudit Fou 5.10b - Start of P1 of Maudit Fou

Le fou - Le Fou

★★ Le centenaire 5.8 - Le centenaire, start

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