등정들 Emporwand에서

For me this is the better version of "1984". Never liked the awkward difficult part of the latter. The "variant" in the name refers to the original "Emporweg", though.

Kurz vorm zweiten Haken wackelig nach rechts an der Schuppe umgehend - oder solider dem Riss folgend piazen.

Really nice flowy line if you know where to go - and if some extra slings reduce the falling meters

The hardest bit is til the second bolt, you get a no hander on the ledge before a nice finish.

Super Tour, die Wegfindung ist nie ganz trivial, aber es gibt den leichtesten Weg!

Direkter Ausstieg

Hard to read. Small holds in good, black rock. Not easy for the grade, but that might also be due to the dust on the holds.

Stretching the term "onsight" for this one a little due to the unpassable tree. Swung around on rope tension, then immediately continued climbing. Not 100% sure we climbed the line correctly, but since there was an old ring before the arête, it was at least a "popular" variant. Apparently, the first ascensionists originally traversed further left to the end of the chimney, then went up and back again to the arête, but this detour didn't make it into later guide books.

Great crack line, definitely retrobolted. Luckily they only put two bolts in, so you still need to buckle up and put some gear in, rendering the bolts basically unnecessary.

Didn't find the easiest solution at the second bolt, which makes it pretty gnarly. The finish was partly wet, but the good fist jams get you to the jugs safely. #repeat

Fantastic line, starting with a few meters of jug pulling to an ever so slightly overhanging crack dihedral that wants to push you out; the jams are ok, the footholds only mediocre. Turns into a full-on stemming chimney in the upper part.

Tough one with lots of bad holds in succession in the lower third; seems that this part is ever-changing, though: lots of chossy or at least suspicious holds. Once you're at half height, it's basically over difficulty-wise but there's many more enjoyable meters to the anchor.

What a pure chimney, this was really hard for me. There was some additional protection in place, which helped a lot.

Some hard moves between the first and second bolt, then it stays way easier than Jericho. A bit far to the 4th or 5th bolt, but falling there should be safe.

Gave up in the middle, maybe it wasn't a good choice to warm up here.

It's dusty and I found it a bit hard for the grade, even on the second try. Well protected, except maybe to the second bolt.

Good dihedral and crack climbing; only two bolts, but good placements for nuts and cams.

A bit dusty to the first bolt (good nuts), then pretty nice layback climbing. Difficult section towards the anchor.

A tad harder than "Jericho", also with the crux in the lower part. Still a beautiful line.

Generous line with cool sequences, winds its way up through the face along the obvious features. Classic Martin Grulich.