등정들 Untere Gößweinsteiner Wände에서

Not the best #warmup if climbed directly. Two good nut placements, but the crack is quite closed and there are a few loose pieces hanging around. Once you can grab the big chockstone on the left, it's in the bag. Knew the upper part already, which is great. The original start suits the route better.

Hard boulder start, fell off before the last move because I didn't recognize an important hold. Lowered off immediately and started again from the ground. After the hard, overhanging start (sharp undercling, shallow three-finger crimp pocket, sharp sidepull, dyno to good hold, up to the jug), the first bulge is a little hard to negotiate; a little easier over the next, smaller bulge into a run-out, exposed slab passage (felt like Elbe sandstone climbing ). Took a good rest below the final bulge, tackled it a bit from the right because you really can't see any holds above. The upper part might be 7+, but the start probably warrants 8-. Great route.

Very nice. You can clip the third bolt of "1988 - Auf der richtigen Seite" if you want, but the big jug at the start doesn't actually make it necessary now that a new bolt has been added (first ascent was done with only two bolts, probably bolted ground-up). Slightly tricky mini-dihedral, followed by a few crimps left of the arête. Perfect nut placement before the big flake, then a brilliant pocketed headwall.

2nd go

2nd go

The first bolt is a bit high in hindsight (although I didn't mind while putting it up...). Nice pockets to the third bolt, but getting over that bulge was way too hard for me while leading so I retreated after a couple of tries.

Seconding this was more relaxed for me. Still, getting over the third bolt was hard and I needed several attempts until I had it figured out (unused side pulls on the right, maybe too reachy for some). The rest is easier but still demanding. Cool route, but hard for the grade™ I guess?

Strange start traversing to the first bolt and having a bulge right at the start of my #warmup Enjoyed the rest of it, especially getting over the second bulge was really nice with the chockstone (also well protected at that point).

Holy moly, I can't remember any 7- this hard.

I don't know... Went in from the right (the original line I think, unlike what Schwertner says), but gave up a bit after the third bolt (far to the fourth) because I didn't want to fall there and it didn't seem to become easier.

Hard slab in the beginning, especially for small people; the first bolt is awkward to clip if you go via the mediocre sidepull at the start. The upper wall is nice pocket climbing, quite sustained and with potential for good air time.

Hard, seemingly holdless slab in the lower part, followed by a powerful overhang. I couldn't say which section is harder, but it's good climbing.

Wonderful climb; pocketed wall to a bulge with underclings and sidepulls into a shallow dihedral; a short traverse left and up leads you to the anchor. Best route at the crag?

Small holds that somehow always seemed to point in the wrong direction. Had to switch hands quite a bit. It's over after the fourth bolt, but the upper few meters are still enjoyable.

After the hard and scary start comes nice, varied dihedral climbing with a spicy finish over a little bulge with a cool spike-shaped chockstone. Good #warmup.

Super schöne Kletterei, erst plattig, dann steil. Ein unscheinbarer Klassiker von Wolfang Güllich.

2nd go

6th go, 2nd day. Die schwerste 7+ in Franken!? Imho eher hart 8...

2nd go. sehr hart für den grad

FFA.