도움

Sarner Scharte

  • 등급표기: FR
  • 사진들 9
  • 등정들 16
  • Aka: Forcella Sarentina

계절특성

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요약

Sarner Scharte is a large porphyr wall, approximately 400 metres in height, found in Sarntal/Val Sarentino, the valley north of Bolzano/Bozen.

설명

The climbing is divided into 3 distinct areas:

  • West face (the first climbed area, longest classic routes)
  • South west face (the 2nd area to be developed, characterised by very low angle friction slabs)
  • North west buttress (the smaller towers to north, more recently developed in a "trad" style, more modern style crack climbing)

접근 문제들

Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down.

Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale.

Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark.

접근

1 - 1.5 hour approach!

From Riedlhof, follow the trail 3 to Sarner Scharte/Forcella Sarentina.

Stay on this trail for ~2kms, until you reach a point where trail 3 veers right, and to your left there's a field with a fence. Turn left, crossing the field until your enter into the forest (following trail 3B).

After ~600m, you reach a cross and an intersection. Turn right (towards the biiiig cliff), following trail 3A.

Follow this trail until you reach a climbing guide/map. From here you can access individual routes.

윤리문제

"Alpine climbing" ethic

Routes have been bolted only where natural protection is not available.

Almost all climbs require some natural gear, with the rock providing many nice cracks, corners, nooks and crannies to jam your flashy bits into.

Many of these routes (especially the easier grades) use natural/trad anchors! Make sure you know how to build safe trad anchors before questing up the Scharte.

역사

History timeline chart

Climbing has been happening on Sarner Scharte since the late 1970's, with the likes of Heini Holzer, Heinz Steinkötter and Hans Pescoller.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Luca di Giorgi

일자: 2022

Mehr als 80 lohnende Mehrseillängentourenim Porphyr im Bozner Talkessel zwischen der Sarner Scharte und den Pfattner Wänden.

Author(s): Gruppo Scoiattoli

일자: 2021

ISBN: 9791280483096

A comprehensive guidebook covering the sport climbing found around Cortina in the heart of the Dolomites, describing over 1,000 mainly single pitch sport routes at 28 crags, including Cinque Torri, Crepe de Oucera and Landro.

Author(s): Guido Colombetti

일자: 2021

ISBN: 9788855470599

Dies ist der erste Auswahl-Kletterführer der das Gebiet der Dolomiten komplett abdeckt. 105 Klettergebiete wurden ausgewählt und aufgenommen - Vom Grödental über Gadertal bis hin zu den Friauler Dolomiten, Agordino und Primiero di Cadore; eine Auswahl der schönsten und lohnendsten Klettergärten.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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수요일 26 4월
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