등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Peña de Bernal Los Bernalitos | |||||
5.10b/c | ★ Alea iacta est
Se aproxima por una rampa de repisas 4ta clase hasta la primer placa, donde se inicia el ascenso vertical Set: Juan Carlos Oviedo | 20m, 11 | |||
5.10c | ★ Pacheca
Set: Ulises Cervantes | 15m | |||
5.10c/d | tumba pepinos
Set: Ulises Cervantes | 11 | |||
5.10c | Sin nombre
Set: Ulises Cervantes P. | 11 | |||
5.10c | El asesino de la luz roja
Set: Saúl Cervantes | ||||
5.12c/d | Buenas muchachas (warriors)
Set: Ulises Cervantes, Javier Barrueta & Juan Carlos Oviedo | 12 | |||
Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) North Wall | |||||
5.12a/b | ★★★ El Día del Cactus
1
5.5
2
5.12a/b
3
5.8
4
5.8
5
5.8
6
5.11a
7
5.10a
8
5.9
From Chichidho follow the trail that goes right towards the monolith, and when you hit a sharp left take it, it will lead you to the multiple single pitch routes, this route is the one with 2 anchors at the end of the ramp. Grades according to the local guide book, 7 pitches if you don´t consider the approach pitch.
Bring two ropes to rappel, or an 80 m rope FA: Rob Powell, Edna Calvo, Moises Hernandez & Miguel de Icaza, 10 1월 2016 | 240m, 8, 15 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Godzilla
1
5.9
2
5.10a
3
5.10a
4
5.10d
Godzilla Climbs to the right of King Kong on the King Kong Buttress. It starts just bellow King Kong. Another great addition to the wall. Destined to be a classic. A standard rack of 14 quickdraws and a 70m rope is all that is needed for the climb.
Rappel straight down the route with a 70m rope. A 60m rope WILL NOT get you down! FA: Annette & Jerry Daniels, 1 3월 2022 FFA: Annette & Jerry Daniels, 4 3월 2022 | 130m, 4, 14 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ King Kong La Bestia Electromecánica
1
5.10c
2
5.10b
3
5.10b
4
5.10c
5
5.7
6
5.10b
7
5.10a
8
5.4
From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. Walk past the ramp-like feature on your left. King Kong is identifiable for a round, nook-like intentation in the rock right below three close bolts.
Rap down the route following the bolts, exactly were you climbed up. There as been many people who mistaken the rap route and got in trouble. Set: Luis Carlos Garcia, Bernardo Ezeta & Mathias Ape FA: Luis Carlos Garcia, Bernardo Ezeta & Mathias Ape | 230m, 8, 15 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Espolón Central
1
5.9
2
5.8
3
5.8
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.8
7
5.7
Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Ramos, 17 9월 2017 | 220m, 6, 12 | |||
5.11d/12a | Tierra de Cuervos
The crux pitch (11d/12a) is the third pitch, the two pitches below are around 11s, an the two pitches above are around 10s Recomendaciones: - Cuerda de 70 m - 15 Tenchas Acceso: Subir por el camino que va hacia la Quiote Wall, teniendo la pared al lado derecho, seguir ese camino hasta llegar a la base del cañon. Subir por el cañón hasta casi el final. La ruta se encuentra al fondo del cañon del lado derecho, como a 20 metros a la izquierda de Meteoro Pegaso. Descenso por meteoro pegaso: Se baja por donde se sube. OJO, el tercer largo mide un poco más de 30 metros por lo que se recomienda utilizar una cuerda de 70 metros. Set: Stefano Nicetto FA: Stefano Nicetto | 160m, 5 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Meteoro Pegaso
1
5.11d
2
5.11d
3
5.11c
4
5.10c
5
5.8
Recomendaciones:
Acceso: Subir por el camino que va hacia la Quiote Wall, teniendo la pared al lado derecho, seguir ese camino hasta llegar a la base del cañon. Subir por el cañón hasta casi el final. La ruta se identifica por una piedra con forma triangular/cónica con un bolt a la izquierda de esa roca. Descenso: Se baja por donde se sube. OJO, el tercer largo mide un poco más de 30 metros por lo que se recomienda utilizar una cuerda de 70 metros. Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Ramos, 19 9월 2017 FA: Rodrigo Ramos & Santiago Vaca, 23 9월 2017 | 160m, 5 | |||
Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) West Wall | |||||
5.12b | El canto del zenzontle
the route all the way to the left on the overhung wall Set: Santiago Vaca, 1월 2017 FA: Santiago Vaca, 6 2월 2017 | ||||
Canta y no llores
Set: Santiago Vaca, 15 9월 2023 | |||||
5.12c | Ometeotl
the route to the right of el canto del zenzontle, is also on the overhung wall Set: Santiago Vaca, 6 11월 2017 FA: Santiago Vaca, 25 11월 2017 | ||||
Calaverita de azúcar
Set: Santiago Vaca, 2016 | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ El Filo Noroccidental
1
5.9
50m
2
5.8
50m
3
5.6
40m
4
5.7
50m
5
5.5
70m
6
5.6
20m
7
5.10a
35m
The classic on the Northwest side. Exposed ridge climbing to the summit with great views on excellent rock. Access either from Rancho Chichi'Dho or the Bernal parking above the city. Follow the trail that links the parking with Chichi'Dho until you see the nice wooden sign for El Filo Noroccidental. Hike up the trail, pass the huge overhanging boulder on the left and take the trail left to the wall. You will find expansion and glue-in bolts next to each other on pitch one. Descent: There are 2 options, on the summit either hike left and pass the crosses. Scramble down a few round boulders (past some anchors) towards the top of the via ferrata. Rap down in 2 rappels along the via ferrata (if you have a 80m rope you can make it down to the first 4 iron bars of the ferrata in one go and downclimb the last few meters). Scramble down until you reach the tourist path and hike back to town. Alternatively there is a brand new rap line (as of March 2019) right on the summit just a few meters from the top anchor of El Filo Noroccidental.
Additional gear: not really needed, you might want to sling one or the other chicken-head. | 320m, 7, 14 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Cadena Nebular
1
5.8
23m
2
5.8
27m
3
5.10b
28m
4
5.8
30m
5
5.9
30m
6
5.11b
40m
7
5.10a
35m
A newer line leading up to the last pitch of "El Filo Noroccidental". Access as for El Filo Noroccidental but continue up higher (taking a right from the horizontal trail leading to the wall of El Filo Noroccidental) until you see the bolt-line going up the slab. 14-16 quickdraws is more than enough to link pitches for this one. Descent: as for El Filo Noroccidental or "La Bernalina"
Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Ramos, 16 8월 2017 FA: Santiago Vaca & rodrigo ramos, 25 8월 2017 | 210m, 7, 9 | |||
5.13a A0 | ★★ Gondwana
1
5.11b
2
5.10
3
5.10
4
5.12a A0
5
5.13a
6
5.10
Largo 5.13a después del A0 es un techo desplomado que va en diagonal | 300m, 6, 18 | |||
5.13a/b | Bristol Fashion
1
5.13a/b
30m
2
5.12c
40m
3
5.12b
25m
4
5.12c
30m
5
5.12a
45m
6
5.10d
60m
Some loose rock in the lower pitches, excellent quality higher up. Set: Ben Walters & Oriol Anglada, 11월 2014 | 230m, 6, 17 | |||
5.10b | ★ Unknown 1
Right of EFS. | ||||
5.10b | ★ Unknown 2
Right of U1. | ||||
5.10a | ★ Unknown 3
Right of U2. | ||||
5.10b | ★ Unknown 4
Right of U3. | ||||
5.10a | ★ Unknown 5
Right of U4. | ||||
Unknown 6
Right of U5. Joins La Bernalina. | 7 | ||||
Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) 폐쇄 South Wall (Bernalina Wall) Sunshine Wall | |||||
5.5 | Begginer
Left of el Filo Suroeste | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Filo Suroeste
1
5.9
2
5.10b
3
5.7
4
5.2
5
5.8
6
5.3
Only bolted route on the Sunshine Wall as of Dec 2022 (All other routes have fixed hangers), it is also one of the classics and less busy. The start is at the top of the ramp on the left when facing the black streak. It is best to go back down through la Via Ferrata, see details in La Bernalina. | 280m, 6, 16 | |||
5.8 | El Rosal
Runout line of bolts to a mid-wall rooflet half way to the anchors. | 18m | |||
5.10a | ★★ La Vaca Loca
The second most popular route on the wall. It can be linked to el Filo Suroeste. | 24m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Vuelo Sin Ti
Second route to the left of the black water streak in the middle of the wall. | 30m | |||
5.10a | ★★ Red Rock Route
Left of the black water streak in the middle of the wall. | 30m | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Black Streak
The black and water-polished route in the middle of the wall. | 24m | |||
5.7 | Dihedral Route
Last route on the right side of the wall, crumbly and with wide bolt spacing. | 23m | |||
Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) 폐쇄 South Wall (Bernalina Wall) | |||||
5.9 | ★★★ La Bernalina
1
5.6
25m
2
5.8
27m
3
5.9
50m
4
5.5
40m
5
5.8
20m
6
5.9
48m
7
5.1
10m
This is the classic Bernalina! Epic multi-pitch. To descend, preferably have somebody who has gotten to the top and rapped down before. You will need two ropes. You can either rap down the way you came (only recommended if you can't find the rap station that I will tell you about in a sec) or you go to the cross, go down to the left of it, scramble all the way down and right to a huge drop (slab of white rock), here be VERY careful or have your buddy secure you so you can go and find the anchors from which you can rap down to a place where you can walk off to the right until you find a via ferrata, where you rap again another, more positive slab. From there on, scamble down. If you go on the rap near the cross, a single 60m ropes will be enough, there's an intermediate station on the first rap.
P1 & P2 can be easily linked with a 60m rope, and you still have 5~7m of rope left. P6 & P7 can be linked in one go with a 60m rope (barely 2~3m left) as long as you build the anchor on the first point (there are 4 anchor at the top at least). | 220m, 7, 10 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Las Placas Rosas / El camino del Yiyo
1
5.10a
20m
2
5.9
25m
Un multilargo muy bonito, el inicio es lo más duro de la ruta. Para identificarle los bolts son rosas. En el 2° largo se debe hacer una travesía a la izq para juntarse con La Bernalina o travesía a la derecha para seguir en ELODLL. A la derecha el grado es más fuerte. | 45m, 7, 12 | |||
5.10a | ★★ El Lado Obscuro de La Luna
To the right of Gigio (right of La Bernalina). Better protected than LB. | 300m, 7, 18 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Horizonte de Estrellas
Right of ELODLL, Can rap off second anchors. | 300m, 7, 14 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Asuntos Exteriores
7m up past HDE. Last route on this wall. Can take trad gear to protect certain runouts. | 300m, 5, 14 | |||
5.7 | ★ Servicio Exterior
The most right bolted route on the South Wall. It is about 30m uphill from La Bernalina.
Both pitches can be combined into one. | 45m, 2, 8 | |||
Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) East Wall | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Puma
Friction slab on the obvious slab right and down from AE. | 75m, 2, 7 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ El Grillo Asesino
1
5.10a
2
5.10b
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.11a
6
5.8
7
5.11a
8
5.4
Right and around Puma, this route goes straight up and finishes almost next to the rap station at the top. | 300m, 8, 10 | |||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Duty Free La Ola | |||||
V4 | ★★ La Ola
Classic highball, first obvious boulder to the right past the plywood door. | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Surf Arete
Left of La Ola, climb the arete. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Duty Free El Tsunami | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Tsunami
Mega classic. Three fingery and powerful moves to a psichological ending. | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Surfeando el Tsunami
Sit start of Tsunami. | ||||
Project
Start where the initial right foot of Tsunami is with your left. Hard topout. | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Maremoto
Sit start in a good undercling and follow the highball arete. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Duty Free The Junkyard | |||||
V1 | ★★ El Peloton
On the first piled boulder you see, go through the "ravine" and sit start on the right of the corner of the right hand boulder. Watch out for the rock behind you. | ||||
V3 | ★★★ El Novato
On the first piled boulder you see, go through the "ravine" and sit start on the left of the corner of the right hand boulder. | ||||
V5 | ★★★ La Tropa
On the first piled boulder you see, go through the "ravine" start on crimp right of El Novato. Throw up! | ||||
V6 | ★★★ La Tropa Sit
Sit start La Tropa on bad underclings. | ||||
V3 | ★★★ Dia D
To the right of La Tropa, climb the highball. Start on the right side and traverse left to exit the ravine. | ||||
V3 | ★ Pinche Guero
Standing start with hands in the square hole. Climb upwards using the arete but staying on the face on the left of it. FA: Morgan Plain, 3 12월 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Una Batalla Resbalosa
Across of La Tropa on the other boulder, sit start along the slab to the right of the ravine. | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Tetris
In the ravine, on the left side side of the ravine when accessing from the entrance from Bernal (or when facing south). On the boulder across from Dia D. Sit start on the left side on big hold. Traverse right, exit the roof and topout. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Bahia de Cochinos
On the left side of Tetris' boulder, on the next face to the left of Tetris, climb the vertical face. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Crisis de Misiles
Left of Bahia de Cochinos. Hard slab, which is V6 is you don't use the right hand good hold. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Duty Free La Casa del Tio Chueco | |||||
V4 | ★★ Techito Rompe Dientes
Start on undercling and crimp beneath the roof, and exit straight to a large hold. | ||||
V6 | ★★★ El Filo del Tio Chueco
Sit start on sloping crimp and go up the edge without using the right hand crimps. | ||||
V5 | ★★★ El Filo del Tio Derecho
As EFDTC, but use the right hand crimps. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Te Caes de la Silla
As EFDTC, but go straight through the slab. | ||||
V1 | ★★ Nanapancha
Sit start right of the slab of TCDLS. Slab out. | ||||
V4 | ★★ El Lado Obscuro del Corazon
Sit start on the right arete and go through it. | ||||
Project
Sit start on underclings on small crimps. Right of ELODC. | |||||
V3 | ★★ Agua que Sube
Right of Project. Sit start on the right and traverse left and up. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Duty Free La Armeria | |||||
V7 | ★★★ RPG
Following the trail, surround this boulder until you reach the backside and the first route in the middle of the backside is this. Sit start on large block, up and left. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Shotgun
Same start as RPG, but go up and slightly left. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Uzzi
Sit start as per RPG, but go right to a confusing topout. Spot the climber! | ||||
V3 | ★★ Dessert Eagle
To the right of RPG, sit start on sloper and crimp. Powerful. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Revolver
Same start as DE, but go right on crimps, slopers and long moves. | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Cumbia sobre el Rio
Go around the corner right of Revolver. Sit start on line of slopers to going left to right to a nice and desperate finish. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Duty Free Travesia Filo | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Woodstock
Kind of lost in the bushes. Start on the right face and go left of the edge. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Ciencia Friccion La Cineteca | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Frankenstein
On the slab. Start on two "veins" and go to sloper and slab out. | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Fuera del Mapa
Sit start left of Frankenstein. Slab out. | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Danza con Lobos
Sit start on two crimps. Precise and slow. | ||||
V5 | ★★★ I'm a cyborg, but it's OK
Sit start on big obvious sloper rail. Straight up on strengthy moves on slopers. | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Blade Runner
Start as per IACBIOK, but traverse left and finish up slab. | ||||
V3 | ★ El Perro Andaluz
Sit start on right side of arete. Tech it out and slab it out. | ||||
V4 | ★★ El Tren de la Vida
Sit start right of arete. Powerful then easy. | ||||
V0 | ★ Los Calientabancas
The entire wall left of ETDLV. Easy. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Ciencia Friccion El Gordo y el Flaco | |||||
V4 | ★★ El Gordo
Sit start on left edge and bad right sidepull. | ||||
V2 | ★ El Flaco
Line to the right of the rock. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Ciencia Friccion Los Tres Chiflados | |||||
V3 | ★★ Moe
Sit start on good hold on left side of boulder and go up the arete. | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Larry
Sit start on right side of the boulder on line of slopers. | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Curly
Start as Larry but exit on first right edge. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Ciencia Friccion Si te asustan los topouts | |||||
V3 | ★★ Si te asustan los topouts
Only route on boulder. Lowball topout. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Ciencia Friccion Los Voladores de Papantla | |||||
V7 | ★★★ O le brincas o le trincas
Starts on the left hand side of the boulder if your facing from " Si te asustan los topouts." Starts on low lateral hold on right hand and left pinch. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Rockus-Ass
To the right of "O le brincas o le trincas." Dyno starting on good holds. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Charito's Love
Start on the right side of the slab, to the right of Rockus-Ass. Use the arete. Easy and fun. FA: Morgan Plain, 5 12월 2021 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Prohibido Caerse
Located to the right of "Rockus-Ass" on the next face of the boulder. Starts on hold with plenty of chalk. | ||||
V4 | ★ Charito's Love 2
Start the same as Prohibido Caerse, but (instead up up and left) go up and right to the lip and topout. FA: Hector Gonzalez, 5 12월 2021 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Plumas Voladoras
Located to the right of "Prohibido caerse" at the back of the boulder. Starts either on an undercling or lateral holds. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Kukulcan
Located to the right of "Plumas Voladoras." Traverse on the lip with heel hooks and slopers. | ||||
Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho Ciencia Friccion La Feria | |||||
V0 | ★ El Carrusel
Line on the visible face of the boulder from the main trail. Easy. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Dragoncito
Comienzas en un under izquierdo y un lateral derecho y pies cercanos a la base de la roca, haces una travesia hacia la izquierda por abajo de la panza hasta salir al bloque de carrusel | ||||
V3 | ★★★ La rueda de la fortuna
Sit start In the middle-left of the right face. Traverse left and topout. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Carritos Chocones
Sit start in the middle right of the right face. Straight up. | ||||
V3 | Toro mécanico
| ||||
V0 | ★★★ Las sillas voladoras
On the back face of the boulder on arete. |