루트들 Baja California South에서

Reach the top rope anchor through the left. Rappel down to the sand and start from the big rocks laying on the floor. Climb left of the crack using small crimps to reach a sloper area.

This block is behind the public trash cans. A little further from where you begin the access to the top rope. Climb on good holds and a couple of good moves to the top. You can practice dyno moves here

start low and right. Traverse the rail and mantle out

Location

south end of the beach. West side of lovers beach

start low in a small overhang on opposing side pulls. move up to a finger lock bucket and over. Mantel out on small dyke/crystals over lip

Location

Located just behind boulder 1.

start low and right on greasy crimpy/sidepulls. work up and left and then to the top

Location

right side of cave

Great overhang and tall.

Location

far SW end of the beach S. of Boulder 1

When you are dropped off on the east side of Lovers beach by your taxi, walk up the beach and through the little pass to the south side of the beach and it will be right in front of you. It's a big, granite boulder smack dab in the middle of the beach. The route is on the north side of the boulder, facing away from the beach. Start is with both hands in the big pocket. To the right of the chimney.

On the Pacific side of Lovers Beach where you go through the pass. On the north side, away from the water. Look for the spire, climb on the south face/top ridge. Beware of slipping, the rock is shitty and crumbling. Lots of slopers.

Problem on the northerly facing wall just to the left of the drop-off. This line goes right up the middle of the wall, starting on the two vertical flaring cracks that are about 3 feet apart. There is a scramble down the backside.

Start on a low edge. Climb the well featured arete.

Start on the low edge of Un Paco Cangrejo (left end of wall), go right to shallow scoops, and squeeze the prow up to the apex of the wall.

The right side of the wall. Start on a low diagonal rail. Move into the vertical flare with balance and slopers.

Referenced earlier as the "mega-cave" which was thought to be a v10-12 project. Start on a low left sloping undercling feature, going up to a sharp incut crimp and then leading out right to a series of rounded crimp rails. Climb to the end of the rail system for a cruxy throw out right to a terrible sloping edge, negotiating with the holds until you can finally bump into the positive jug. Regain your composure, and finish up with some huge committing moves up to a great pocket or rail for a drop off finish. A truly classic line. Location Once in Cheater's Cove looking into the cove from the ocean, follow the left rock wall to a small overhanging section that dead-ends into some smaller boulders. From there, find the rail system, look left about 5 feet, and start on the low sloping undercling below the obvious crimp.

Amazing line on great rock. Start sitting to the left of Impossible in Denim, matched on a jug side pull. Climb up left through the thuggish undercling seam before doing a desperate throw off poor feet to a jug side pull ear. Set a right drop knee and reach high to a small but very positive, half pad crimp, which allows you to let your body out and throw for the sloping side pull jug. A desperate shoulder press out to the finishing horn awaits

Location Start sitting just low and to the left of Impossible in Denim. Beta Video:

youtu.be/eydZ011oaGw

Start matched on underclings under the roof with a toe hook on the lip of the boulder. Do an easier move to a sloping rail and then an awkward foot release jump to a jug. Match and traverse left on the lip to top out. Really bizarre foot release crux

beta video:

https://youtu.be/MIk_QaDk8Lk

Location In the talus between cheaters cove and playa de Los amantes

The fins of rock in the steep chimney. Great pinches! Stay right at top for more climbing.

An amazing problem with quality rock. Start on a low left sloper side-pull and a right black side-pull. Go to a black pinch/sloper and flake up the prow, follow up the apex of the prow!

Start on the flake side-pull. Follow horizontals to the big flake.

Start on the low pod and black side-pull. Go to the horizontal and left to the big flake.

Start sitting on the low flake in the roof, over the flat rock. Follow crimps left to the larger edge, go up the flake/crack. Protection A single pad is a good idea

This is a small cove of good rock with many possible problems and traverses to do. Chalk shows up here, so probably a long history of bouldering. Location Located west of the Oro Purfecto boulder, and beyond the pile of boudlers where Pastinaca Volador is located.

This route begins on a jug near the groin at the far end of the first section of the Playa Acapulquito boulders. It begins with a 15-foot traverse to the left, your hands working across a long series of good holds on a seam of hardened, stained rock relatively low on the wall. As the entire base of this climb is recessed, you'll have to hunt around creatively for footholds—and throw a few heel hooks when working past a deep cave section. Turn upwards once you spot the distinct V above your head. Once you get up on the wall, be careful not to yank too hard on any jugs, as the rock becomes a little fragile near the top. Go for the slopers instead.

Location

You can't climb this at high tide. Walking from Playa Acapulquito, you'll see a set of man-made stairs chopped into the bluffs. Step around the first outcropping of rock (which offers some decent grips for beginner climbers and folks who want to warm up a bit before they go big) and you'll see the first big section of the bluffs, which I call Crab Rock. (There was a crab hiding on the rock the first day I stopped by.) Look for the beginning of the route tucked into the groin at the far right of the bluff.

A HQ left angling crack that hangs over deep water, safe falls all day. Crux is at the beginning, but some zapatos para roca might help Location If you find the waterfall at the map location you can’t miss it

Psicobloc

Start with left hand on the 4 finger pocket, right hand sidepull in the crack. Feet are slabbed underneath. (No cheating on the lower boulder you bastards!) Throw up to medium ledge, match, bump left until you reach the arete. Pull up and over on good jugs. Location Located on the Split Boulder at the north end of the La Poza Boulders. Start is the same as "Hops in Bed". Protection A few small boulders in the landing, bring a pad for safety.

Overhanging start with 2-finger pocket starting hold on the right, 4 finger pocket on the left. Crux is pulling feet above the overhang. Protection There are a few rocks in the sand, so a pad is a nice to have.

This is the obvious crack on the split boulder. Sit on your booty and scooch under the boulder a few moves.

Start with both hands in the hand jams and work your way up toward the lip and then a big move around the corner. Don't let your butt dab on the lower boulder. Pretty fun climbing!

Location Obvious crack in the split boulder.

Travesía empezando con ambas manos en el lateral pinza grande cerca de la grita central. Sigue por el techo hacia la izquierda para tener el mismo final que Latvian Mistress

Línea dura por el extremo derecho del boulder

Esta ruta tiene una ligera inclinación positiva, grieta y borde con buenos agarres, así como algunas cazuelas.

Ruta con cierta inclinación negativa, el crux es al inicio con pinzas y grimps, esta ruta se une arriba con “Vasectomía”.

Ruta con paredes a los lados y buenos descansos después de la 3ra placa.

Ruta con muy buenos pies y agarres, perfecta para personas que van iniciando en la roca. Ojo con el cactus cercano a la penúltima placa.

There are a couple of moves on iffy holds that add a bit of intrigue, otherwise the rock is good and well protected. It is fun to get out of the dark and still canyon when you top out in a sea breeze.

Behind the campsites off a little dirt track running north, cut in to the jungle toward the band of cliffs and the obvious short box canyon. The route is just left of center.

Fun steep climb on good rock route was 3-4 feet longer before the 2016 storms added gravel to the base

Location 2nd climb from the right

Nice slab route, route was 3-4 feet longer before the 2016 storms added gravel to the base, so a yellow alien was helpful, but now not necessary Location left most climb on the small slab

A blue Alien is nice between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. route was 3-4 feet longer before the 2016 storms added gravel to the base Location The middle route on the small slab. Protection 3 bolts and a small cam

Good beginner lead. These routes were all 3-4 feet longer before the 2016 storms! Location The rightmost route on the small slab Protection 3 bolts

The slab with a small roof near the top, climb through the roof to a 2 bolt anchor Protection 4 bolts

The steep somewhat overhanging corner. grade may have changed due to a few holds breaking Location climb just left of Pega Pega Protection Top Rope

Fun climb up the sharp arete. route was 3-4 feet longer before the 2016 storms added gravel to the base Protection 5 bolts

A few small to medium cams up to 2 bolts to a shared anchor Location The nice corner on the right of the cliff Protection 2 bolts plus a few trad pieces

Fun route with a few tricky moves Location The left most route on the cliff Protection 8 bolts

Steep Face climb Location 3rd route from the right Protection bolts