등정들 Waitomo District에서 스포츠 클라이밍로서 Alexei Drummond에 의한

Bouldery to second bolt then just a bit crumbly.

Putting gear up and working out the beta.

Pumpy. In my current condition I was just happy to get to the top. Took a big whip off the upper bulge, so I guess the head game is okay

Cute little route but my finger didn’t let me have a proper go.

Warm up #2. Really out of shape. Actually got a bit pumped on this. Finger not ready for climbing yet

Warm up. Finger very sore.

First go. Discovered the crux quite low down.

Second go. Climbed it clean to last hold before the jugs at the anchors and pumped out on a sloper trying to get in position to go for the layback jug Gutted I didn't get it second go.

Red point. Third attempt.

Another really nice line by John Newby at Frog Pond. The delicate technical crux is between the second and third bold. This is beautiful technical face climbing on slopers the whole way.

After the crux there is some easier climbing if you know where you're going and don't muck around too much. Having said that you can see from the video that I muck around a lot

Warm up. Many fragile looking flakes. Grip the holds very gently!

Climbed this to put up the gear on Mutations for Alex.

Onsight attempt. Couldn't read the section between 3rd and 4th bolt. Got pumped working out the remainder, but did a careful check out after that and found a jug which helped a lot on the second go.

Red point on my second go. I am getting the hang of this #2ndGo discipline. Just do a very careful checkout and rehearse the cruxes on your first go, take a good rest, refuel and then fire it off Really nice climb.

Got a bit spanked by this one. Seems very hard to clip the 4th bolt and to get to the 5th one. Got to the top with a few hangs but used a bit of French Cuisine to do it

Warm up. Quite a nice line but rock quality questionable on the upper half.

Something new to finish the day off with.

Super dirty, so onsight attempt turned into a brush and check out.

Should have got this on second go but my foot slipped on a dirty foothold as I was clipping the fourth bolt and I had a nice fall.

Easy red point on third go. Quite a nice climb once it has been cleaned.

Putting the gear up for Alex.

Warm up.

First go of day. 13th overall. One hang on 3rd bolt.

Second go of day. 14th overall. High point! One hang on 4th bolt.

3rd go of day. 15th overall. Matched high point. One hang on fourth bolt.

Red point!! Longest project ever. This was the 16th go overall. Right on my limit and wasn’t really thinking about sending as it was my last go of the day. My celebration was a bit ridiculous What an awesome route!!

Warm up and putting gear on Mutations in my Genes.

First go of day. 9th overall. Got tied up on slopers at 3rd bolt. Went to fourth bolt so Alex could have first two pre-clipped.

Second go of the day. 10th overall. Hung at 3,4 and 5 But I think I finally worked out efficient beta for first 3 bolts.

Third go of day. 11th overall. One hang after falling off of Crux sloper! First time I have climbed from third bolt to the top Very happy but have almost no skin left!

4th go of day. 12th overall. Cleaning gear off. Two hangs but found an alternative crux that doesn’t use the sloper hmmmmm

Warm up and putting gear on Mutation in my Genes.

Second go of the day. Sixth overall. Two hangs again. Still wasting energy on the bottom.

Third good the day. Completely out of sync on the bottom and bailed below third bolt.

Fourth go of day. Eighth overall. Two hangs again. But feel like I am dialling in the top a lot more now. Not much skin left!

First go of day. Fifth overall. Two hangs. Forgot the sequence for first three bolts so wasted a lot of energy.

Had a wet streak which made the move across to the arete less of a warm up then I would have liked

Tricky little number. I tried it a long time ago unsuccessfully so this was my second attempt. Went up this for a warm up before trying Mutation in my Genes around the corner.

Second attempt. Hangdog. Extended the fourth draw. Not sure if it is better or worse. Can do all the moves in isolation.

Third attempt. Hang dog. High point is still just below the fourth bolt. But I am just too tired today and climbing too inefficiently. I am feeling pretty positive about this climb in good conditions when I am fresh.

Fourth time tying in. Just going up it again to clean off the gear. Remembering the moves. Too tired for a proper attempt, so just grabbing the fourth and fifth bolts again.

First go. Conditions are perfect. Working out the moves. Climbed clean to clip the third bolt on this first effort. Then grabbed the next two draws to get to the top.

Sent again on fourth try while trying to look for feasible arete beta. Noped out to the easier face line again. This climb would only be a 23 as an eliminate problem. It is easy to clip the bolts on the face climbing at about ~20.

First attempt looking for the holds on arete and failing to find them. Went left instead. On the arete this would be a hard 23. But with cheat codes it is a 20/21 climbing the face and using the crack on left hand.

Second attempt with left crack beta.

Sent on third attempt. On the arete this would be a hard 23. But with cheat codes it is a ~20/21 climbing the face and using the crack on left hand.

Climbed this one cleanly but laboured over it. End of an average day

Had to try harder than expected to onsight this in the sun at the end of the day.

Not climbing well and got shut down on this. Got close to clipping third bolt but retreated.

Clipped first two bolts but don’t have the game for the third bolt.

Warm up.