등정들 The Beer Garden에서 Hang dog로서

fingey go brrr

Hard start and first bolt is quite high. The second half of this route is covered by dry moss, please be cautious. Is not easy to see the holds and not easy to smear because of it.

1 fall. Couldn't find the jug hiding from me

1 fall. Did all the moves

Got very close to the send today but ran out of skin... again. Thanks for the patience Marnus

Think I have good beta for the send once my skin has recovered. Some brutally sharp pockets on this one

The first 2 bolt is good. Very dirty afterwatd

And one on the dog list. Gets pumpy at top. All good but greased off the rail immediately under the anchor, wet hand from puddle in pocket below. Solid fall, banged hip. Pulled back up and sorted it. Nicely shady, will revisit.

Second go of the day. Thought I had it as I got through all the bolts but then the top was damp and covered in lichen and I somehow ended up with my injured finger in a mono and decided to call take rather than go for glory on a 21

Put gear up.

Dogged to the top to clean it off.

Warm up. It was covered in vines half way up and the top half was mostly lichen. Had very little chance at the onsight. The bang-in bolts are also pretty rusty and it really needs to be rebolted. The anchor is particularly uninspiring and it would make a lot of sense to extend the chains. The climbing is quite nice though.

First go. Just a fingertip from the glory jug and the rest is easy as I found out. But missed the onsight. I made it scary for myself by going from the second bolt to the fourth as the third was hidden under some vine foliage. I don't recommend as it was easy terrain but also would have been a very very bad fall.

Yeeeeees, happy with this hang dog! 🐕 None of that aid shit or grabbing draws to clip, nah. Look, I know hang dogs are not generally impressive, but on the first try it had felt almost impossibly hard (for the 3 bolts) and then scary af with the run out and swing between 4th and 5th bolts. But today I cranked through all those tiny sharp pockets and shit through 4 bolts and, after a rest and getting myself psyched, I easily charged through the fun and juggy roof section to clip the 5th bolt surrounded by jugs 🖤 both easy and fun, and anyway climbing is best with a little spice!!! 🌶

🕷 Beta tips for myself for send attempt(s): from deep 2 finger pocket on the left hand just above 1st bolt, bump right hand from good solid crimp (we'll call "Bob") up and out right. Ignore the multiple other right hand bumping options and get feet high, including right foot into big ole jug (that I go for once established on the route). Then big crossover move to get right hand into 3 finger pocket that is the clipping hold for 2nd bolt. Left foot goes into small pocket (that was ticked for me from some previous climber) and high right foot into solid crimp ("Bob"). Clip. Then stand up and get left hand into big pocket that has crimp ledge on bottom half and undercling knob on top. Left foot on good chip. Right foot on good crimp edge. Left hand into really good sidepull. Get crimp above 2nd bolt with right hand. Bump left hand to higher, lefter, sharper sidepull. Swap feet so right foot is on chip. Crank to get "bowling ball" pockets with right hand, adjust if necessary. Crank up, keeping hardcore core tension to those 3 holds immediately right of 3rd draw, bottom pocket is smallest but juggiest. Right foot onto massive crimp ledge and cranking hard with left hand to get big jug that is the clipping hold for 3rd bolt (to the right of it). Pretty smooth sailing to 4th bolt, remember sharp "egg" 🥚 hold far right of the 4th bolt can help to clip it. Then jugs everywhere, keep core tension going into roof, remember heel hook on massive jug under the arch/roof, slightly higher jug for left hand, LOCK OFF left arm to reach high with right hand. Get good crimp/okayish jug then bump higher with right hand for amazing jug. (Don't forget to go heel to toe with left foot to help get up there at some point 😄) Top is mossy & muddy as hell but it's like a grade 10 to anchor so whatevs 🤎

I had to do a traverse in to the first draw from the left, the line goes though a heinous boulder problem. logged on 8a as a 27 not sure where 26 came from. traverse in from the left skipping the boulder at the bottom is prob 25. sharp pockets the whole way and lots of lichen to clean off

Several falls getting to anchor. Lots of lichen, looks seldom climbed.