등정들 Flaggermusmannen에서 Red point 또는 First free ascent로서

My biggest mental battle so far! Thanks Adam for the vision and inviting me to join the process. Really proud of this one, it has been one hell of a ride!

B.I.G. feels so strange to grade because it really doesn’t feel that bad if you try just the moves. The crux is an 8a+ boulder problem and by now I have it dialed so well that I can do it easily even multiple times in a row. But because of the very powerful style of the boulder it’s way more difficult to do it after 80+ moves of climbing.

To me it felt a whole step beyond Perfecto Mundo which seems confirmed at 9b+. This alongside reflections with Adam made me propose 9c for B.I.G. While in my eyes the range for grades up to 9b seem to have settled due to the total amount of routes and ascents, this doesn’t yet seem the case for 9b+ and 9c, where the possibilities for comparison are still very limited. There are not even 10 climbers that claim to have sent 9b+, and the total of routes graded 9b+ or harder is still below 15, most of which are yet to see repeats. This makes it obvious that confines for both 9b+ and 9c are still blurry and will develop over time and through ascents and shared opinions. I hope they will come soon!

Hardest 6c ever! Took 3 tries and quite an awkward beta to solve. If it weren't for the crux and the length this climb would be incredible!

Project big was wet again so I had to try something else finally. Tried this fun bouldery route a bit 6 years ago, 2nd try this trip. Maybe not the proudest line but definitely fun to climb!

14 tries in 5 days

2nd. Crazy technical dihedral.

1st go. Long and pumping.

2nd go. Kneebars.

2nd go. Some nice impromptu beta from Jon and Alexander! Really cool prow feature.

Second try. Cool gym like moves... toe hooks and jumps. Thanks Jon for the beta, belay and cheerleader work!

Superkul! Inte farligt att inte förklippa andra, bara lite hårdare. Blev förklippt för mig pga föll på första för dagen, och kände mig bekväm

Den enda led jag hade tänkt göra på resan. Skräckblandad upplevelse, son väntat. Det ingår nog i graden att vissa grepp är naturligt vattenfyllda. Tog lång tid att lösa den övre känsliga biten. 3:e.

Kort, men fina flytt. Både rättfram och lite spex. När dragarna väl var uppe blev detta nog veckans led.

#2go

Fun route with a lot of contrasting and interesting climbing in its short length. Hard bouldery start / tricky bulge / slippery (when wet or humid) dihedral. Upper end 7c, lower end 7c+.

Couldn’t find a good beta and felt not easy

To the first anchor can’t be more than 8a+. Hard to onsight, easy to flash! Liked it a lot! #2go

Onsighted but already climbed the 7a

Flashed but I had already climbed the 4th grade part at the top. Never 8a.

Ja vad ska jag säga... bästa leden jag gjort? Absolut. Så sjukt fin att det nästan är knäppt. Eftersom jag var sjuk i början på veckan hade jag inga förhoppningar om att få sända denna. Men de sista dagarna kände jag mig stark igen. Var på den ett par gånger förra året, utan större framgång. Nu gick den på första presset andra dagen. Totalt 4 press den här resan, 6 inkl. förra året.

Provade en gång förra året och missade flashen. Nu gick jag för senilonsight trots att jag kände mig slut i både knopp o kropp. Men med ett handjam i kruxet lyckades jag bängla mig igenom, och hela vägen till ankaret. Sjukt oväntat.

Loved it! Den tog lite blod, men jag fick sista ordet.

Femte

Such a close Onsight attempt... Really good crimpy and powerful climb on an overhanging prow, very bouldery like in Techino

Very good climb, consisting of some bouldery sequences with big moves - pumpy and a lot of core is needed - and some good rest points. Solid 8a

Took me two whole days to get this absolutely classic line! The cold was killing sensation in my hands again. About 35m long, a pumpy steep traverse on great holds that leads into a V3ish compression boulder problem that makes you feel "out there". This is the route that made me feel the beauty of the place, the silence and concentration only being interrupted when you look behind you to find the Arctic Ocean creeping inside the fjords, without a doubt one of the standout lines of our trip!!

It took a shamefully large number of attempts to get this one... hands kept freezing! Amazing steepish climbing on good holds with a fair bit of body tension that eases after the first boulder problem at the start. Stout 6c. The weather was cold and humid, it being October, and all of the trees already in full fall! Needed the hand warmer inside m'chalk bag!