등정들 Animal World And Beyond에서

Got it 2nd go. Great fun! One sequence wonder, but glad to have pushed through.

Had a session this past Monday as well as past Friday on this beast. I did all the moves within one session! Very psyched to be projecting this. Climbs up Tell Tale Heart, including its crux, to break out roght to a V6/7 sloper boulder problem. The slopers are baaaaad. Definitely a low percentage boulder problem for me, so I need to build endurance to get there really fresh!

Excellent climb! Was inspired by Datus's well-executed send! I had a session where I placed draws, tried Nevermore twice, then warmed down on this this past Monday. Then today I placed draws on it, then tried Nevermore one time, then sent! Balancy and insecure climbing followed by pumpy and balancy moves. What follows is a strenuous reach/throw to an OK crimp. Did the first part quickly and went dynamically for the cruz crimp! Very psyched to get this one. I feel it's one of the more solid 12a's I've done this year (I think this is #22?)

Got on this after sending Tell-Tale Heart! It looked onsighteable, so why not try it out? Psyched about the OS. Crimpy layback moves on smeary feet followed by big moves on big holds. Redpoint crux is a big move to an OK 2-pad hold that guards the anchor. Stoked! Florian got TTH right after for the send train!

5.12 #21 in 2023! Two sessions: one on 6/8/23 and another today. Started climbing with Florian- great dude to climb with Sent it after placing draws on it and getting flash pumped and falling at the crux. Because these morning sessions are pre-work sessions, there is no such thing as properly resting before burns. Got on it the second time today expecting not to send. I found a sneaky lean-forward rest at the right hand gaston on the crux, and got a lot back- enough to clear the remainder of the crux moves! Don't let your guard down after the rest post-crux- make sure you rest, as you can still fall on the last bit! I know I almost did. Balancy moves at the start lead to a leanback rest, and crux is flexy, big tensiony, shouldery moves on overhanging good edges and slopers. Redpoint crux is going for the last left hand sloper off of another sloper from a splits stance. Solid and classic!

OS'd this years ago (also on 6/8/23), so logging it now as an OS. We used it, as the name suggests, as a warm-up for Tell Tale Heart. 7 AM climbing in rainy afternoons/evenings make for really nice conditions! Watch the crack/transition between the wall on the left and the dihedral- some rope can get stuck there when giving slack for the anchor, and you need to take harder on the anchor than you would think! Techy dihedral with no real hard moves.

Quick dusk climb after photo sesh with Justin's camera! Seems much easier than last time I was here, but still not easy! I'll probably get it next time

Contrived

With jenny

#makebouldercanyonsoftagain

Chickened out instead of clipping the 5th bolt under the lip.

Managed to do the hard clip and find the beta over the lip.

One hang at lip.

One hang at lip.

One hang at lip! I guess I should have expected something like this after climbing for 5 days in a row

Warm up

Flash attempt. Couldn’t work out how to get over the lip.

Flash attempt after watching a couple of other climbers on it. But I went for the double gaston from too low and fell at the crux. The grade comes from one move into an "open the elevator door" stance. After hanging below the crux I then went bolt to bolt to the anchor because the last few moves are a bit run out on big jugs and I had to psych myself up for it.

Red point #2ndgo. Based on this, Boulder canyon has softer grading than Rifle! But this route and crux suit me well. I watched two shorter climbers on it and neither could do the crux so it might be a matter of height as well.