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Good and Evil Blocks

  • Grade context: AU
11

Description

The little blocks behind Steel Delinquency Pinnacle.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The L-facing corner, curving L at the end.

Start: Find this as described above.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

The flake, pass small tree, and straight up.

Start: Start R of LS.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

R and up at top.

Start: Start R of TFoC.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1995

Flake then short wall.

Start: Start in middle of wall.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1995

Start at the small flake but step L and then up.

Start: Start 2m R of CS.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1995

Straight up the flake.

Start: Start as for V.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1995

The corner.

Start: Start at the R end of Stockyard Wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Pual Hoskins, 1995

Good mini-route.

Start: Start on the L arete of the 3rd blocky pinnacle.

FA: Nick Neagle, Tim Day & Craig Roberts, 1992

Start on the L to gain the diagonal.

Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle.

FA: Tim Day & Louise Shepherd, 1991

The face.

Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM.

FA: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992

The flakes.

Start: Start directly opposite CRaCM.

FA: Nick Neagle, Tim Day & Craig Roberts, 1992

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 5 May
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