Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Trad | ||||||||
22 21 | ★ JP | 12m, 1 | Wahroonga | Sat 12th Dec 2015 | ||||
Quite dirty, was a bit stout as the warm up
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22 | ★★★ Hotline | 15m | Diamond Lake | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Mar 2008 | |||
I should of brought my rack along
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22 | ★★ Lift Girls Lament | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jan 2016 | |||
Kind of glad it wasn't longer. Pretty pumpy for a short route. Yay for thin hands.
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22 | ★ Unknown route | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 17th Sep 2018 | |||
I thought I was on WATP until looking at guide book. The bolts aren't that new. Very thin and would still feel quite bold.
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22 | FA ★ Hung out to Dry | 16m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Tue 2nd May 2017 | |||
Seconded Dave. Dirty with doubles from #3 to 5. Type 2 fun.
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5.11b | ★★★ Everlasting | 100m | Devils Tower National Monument | ★★★ Classic | Fri 17th Jun 2005 | |||
5.8 start to wicked arete and difficult mantle to finish this route which goes on and on!
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22 22 R | ★★ Ice | 170m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Apr 2006 | |||
night climbing sensation! Marty P1,2, me P3, M P4, Adam P5
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5.11 | ★★★ Routa 1985 (normal) | 750m | Huaraz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 17th Jul 2011 | |||
A 20 hour round trip. Freezing once the sun set. Grinding but great once the pain eased.
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22 | ★★ Skating Scattered | 18m | Skate Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Jul 2013 | |||
Rpt. Quite pumpy.
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E2 5c E2 5c | ★ Baba maal | 30m | Anti-Atlas | ★ Good | Sat 8th Feb 2014 | |||
Nice moves but some suspect rock
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E5 5c | ★★ Green Death | 18m | Millstone Edge | Average | Mon 23rd Jun 2014 | |||
I didn't like this that much, 3 very reachy bits in between an easy ramp. Made a bit of a cairn to get not he route.
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HVS 5c | ★★ Chequers Crack | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ★ Good | Fri 27th Jun 2014 | |||
Rather pumpy for such a short route, we were getting midges out and needed to run away.
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E3 5c | ★★ Brown's Eliminate Direct | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th Jun 2014 | |||
I like my ankles and my life. Damn midges sent me crazy.
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E2 5c E2 5c | ★★★ Vector | 95m | Tremadog Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 27th Jun 2014 | |||
Led the traverse, talk about sucking exposure. All pitches great.
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22 | ★★ Cracked It | 20m | Iris Moore Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Feb 2015 | |||
Rpt with blinkers to make it more strenuous
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22 | ★ Private Detective | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 15th Oct 2015 | |||
Under the rap station and rather thin on gear. Nice technical route
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22 | ★★★ Old Guard | 40m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Jul 2018 | |||
This climb makes me think we may be grading our new trad ascents a bit too sandbaggy in Newcastle, even though I was only seconding I kept waiting for a hard bit.
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22 | ★★ Steel Fingers | 40m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jul 2018 | |||
Came in from the side on second. Shares quite a bit with R and R up the top.
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22 | ★ Squeaky Leather | 38m | Frog Buttress | Average | Fri 26th Jul 2019 | |||
Ok, but a bit friable and contrived. No pitons or bolts any more.
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6c | ★★ Laura | 240m | Cavallers | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Aug 2019 | |||
Mad dogs and Australians out in the midday sun, 30 degrees. Thankful for breeze and trees at belays. Mostly short cruxes, fun climb. I thought the offwidth on p2 was harder than the wide hands p3.
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22 | ★ Flight Sensation | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Sep 2020 | |||
22 | ★★ Dramp | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd May 2004 | |||
first go, will lead it next time I have a second who can clean it
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22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd May 2006 | |||
how is it so pumpy?
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22 | ★★ No.6 | 20m | Iris Moore Park | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th Dec 2006 | |||
22 | ★★ No.6 | 20m | Iris Moore Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Mar 2004 | |||
also pinkpointed on trad, first fall on trad gear
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22 | ★★★ Memorable Moves | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Jan 2009 | |||
The top just blows your mind
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22 | ★★ Skating Scattered | 18m | Skate Park | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Dec 2003 | |||
great moves
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22 | ★★ Niche Market | 20m | Victoria Range | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | |||
I thought I was at arapiles, sweet crack.
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22 | ★★ Skating Scattered | 18m | Skate Park | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Jan 2008 | |||
must lead this one day
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22 | ★ High-angle Dangle | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 27th Aug 2006 | |||
nice moves but chossy rock, spaced gear and a bitch to get off
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22 | ★★ Vapour Trail | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st May 2006 | |||
do it before the sprouting pine makes things impossible
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22 | ★★ Plimsoll Line | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 4th May 2006 | |||
was going to lead it but emotionally drained after seconding traverse on Orestes
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22 | ★★ Continuum | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Apr 2006 | |||
Lovely face climbing as second, hard to get off ledge then interesting mid height crux well above gear
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22 | ★★★ Sea Monsters | 22m | Eagle Rock | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Dec 2006 | |||
super exposure
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22 | ★ Tootsie Direct | 20m | Summerday Valley | ★ Good | Fri 28th May 2010 | |||
I tried to lead it and chickened out onto Tootsie instead
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22 | ★★ Straw Dogs | 11m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Apr 2010 | |||
pumpy but excellent
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22 | ★★ Glory Rodent | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Apr 2011 | |||
Finally got this clean after figuring how to get into the lowest jam without pain
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22 | ★★ Honeycomb | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Nov 2011 | |||
bees a little active
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22 | ★★ Quisling Direct Start | 22m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 6th Oct 2013 | |||
Didnt feel that bad for a Raps 22, though maybe cos I was seconding Dave.
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22 | John and Chrispys sapling crack | 12m | Bulahdelah | Average | Sat 9th Nov 2013 | |||
Tried to brush it a bit.
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E3 5c | ★ Orbital | Anti-Atlas | ★ Good | Wed 5th Feb 2014 | ||||
Easy slab, dodgy pro
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E2 5c | ★ Tresonga | 30m | Anti-Atlas | ★ Good | Tue 11th Feb 2014 | |||
Not bad for a wide crack, though a bit grimy.
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E4 5c | Casino royale | 30m | Anti-Atlas | Average | Tue 11th Feb 2014 | |||
The rock was a bit scary. Tr it after we did tresonga as same abseil point. Pumpy.
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E2 5c | ★★ Leaving las vegas | 40m | Anti-Atlas | ★ Good | Tue 25th Feb 2014 | |||
Last quick route. Nice but not E2. Lots of rests.
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E5 5c | ★★★ Edge Lane | 18m | Millstone Edge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 23rd Jun 2014 | |||
A beautiful exercise in balance
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E3 5c | ★★ Cemetery gates. Direct finish | 60m | Llanberis Valley Area | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Jun 2014 | |||
The rock a bit mankier on this. Some sharp pockets
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22 | ★ Honey Log | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★ Good | Mon 9th Mar 2015 | |||
22 | ★★★ Black Light | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Jun 2015 | |||
Tricky start, then great size crack for small hands
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22 | ★ Blackguard | 25m | Arapiles | Tue 13th Oct 2015 | ||||
Really fun face climb. There would be a great wire below crux and small cam above. Would feel a tad committing though
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22 | The Arete | 15m | Mt Horrible | Don't Bother | Fri 18th Mar 2016 | |||
Looked interesting but felt like contrived climbing
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22 | ★★ Mr. Wolf | 41m | The Chasm | ★ Good | Wed 30th Mar 2016 | |||
Second (crux) pitch only. Nice underclings and a few hardish moves on the steeper section.
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22 | ★ Flight Sensation | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★ Very Good | Mon 31st Oct 2016 | |||
Really interesting climb. I liked it so much I did another lap. Gear looks good, must lead.
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22 | ★★ Dramp | 15m | Arapiles | Average | Thu 23rd Feb 2017 | |||
Rpt, impressed I did this clean on my first trip here in 2003
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22 | ★★ Supermouse | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Oct 2017 | |||
Really nice climbing. Would have excellent pro with small cams after 4 m
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5.11b 6b R | ★★★ 1985 Original Route (Original Route) | 750m | Huaraz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 4th Jun 2011 | |||
With Marty and jono. Did free at 5.11, one day ascent, first 3 pitches fixed. It was a long day, climbed in gloves after sundown. Got off route near the end but made it work.
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22 | ★ Cioch | 14m | Morialta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Sep 2018 | |||
Interesting movement, quite tricky. I even felt bunched at times
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22 | ★★ Cracked It | 20m | Iris Moore Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Jan 2019 | |||
I am sure the crack is getting wider
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22 M1 22 M1 | ★★★ Hard Rain | 120m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | |||
Felt a bit intimidated rapping in, 100 m just makes it. Got a bonus dirt pitch to retrieve dave’s dropped crack glove. Led pitch 2 and most of 3. Did it in 3 pitches. Quite mossy at the crux and up the last bit of status quo. Waited to 3 pm to get on it to avoid the sun ( wise move). We were still parched at the top.
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22 | ★ Flame | 22m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 30th Mar 2019 | |||
Quite fun, stupid bold bolting, especially when dirty and all the feet roll on grit. Otherwise reminiscent of peroxide blonde, but steeper at the start. Delicate good moves. Fun to top rope.
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6c+ | ★★★ Rabada-Navarro | 750m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Sep 2019 | |||
First 3 pitches only to see how the cruxes would go ( good). Rain thwarted the whole 21 pitch attempt. We may try again.
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6c | ★★ Dentrometidos | 220m | Cavallers | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Oct 2019 | |||
Alt pitches, led evens. Cold when the sun left, then hit by hail after getting off ( good timing really).
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22 | ★ Judgement Over the Dead | 24m | South Sister | ★ Good | Wed 4th Dec 2019 | |||
Found this quite tricky in places, interesting climbing. Rather dirty anda bit flaky at present. Deserves more love.
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22 |
★★ Taipan
- with
David Gray
| 45m | Killiecrankie | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Mar 2021 | |||
First pitch tricky for 17, second pitch impossible if 167 cm with negative ape factor. And even if you are tall, it looked damn hard, even at 22 as it is on thesarvo.However I climbed a left hand variant that had insane laybacking but went clean, on second by climbing to the base of the crux, then moving down and left to a beautiful flake into thin hands.
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22 | ★ Squibs Slab | 20m | Killiecrankie | ★ Good | Mon 8th Mar 2021 | |||
Would easily be a 24 in most places, even with bolts of which it has none. What a crazy lead. Little bits of rock still crumbling
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22 | ★★ Cracked It | 20m | Iris Moore Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Apr 2021 | |||
22 | ★★★ Erg Direct | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Wed 14th Jul 2021 | |||
Hadnt done the contrived start before. Found it easier than the bit where I have to launch at arete.
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22 | ★★ Free Passage | 15m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Apr 2022 | |||
Shame about the ledge at half height. Great climb in 2 parts. I actually found part 2 as bad as hard as part 1. Body to left and right foot on flake before going up with hands is note to self along with tape/ crack glove left hand….
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22 | ★★ Hellspite | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 17th May 2022 | |||
Led up to crux ( again) but not sure what to do, go right or left, but with a bit of beta spray managed it on top rope. It’s all about a super high right foot cam. Oh well, it partially clears up the old dog….
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7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje — 2 attempts | 15m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | |||
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.
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22 | ★★ Cast Adrift | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Thu 10th Jul 2008 | |||
The crux would be the roof
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22 | ★★★ Iron Curtain | 130m | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Nov 2008 | |||
Led P2 and 4. Some great variation, with Rich.
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22 22 R | ★ Ephemeral | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Dec 2007 | |||
Intricate gear to safely protect traverse.
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22 | ★ Jimmy Joe | 25m | Wingello | Average | Sun 26th Aug 2007 | |||
Looks great, but the crux is clipping the bolts which makes the route contrived. Crack up top pleasant.
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22 | ★★★ The Navigator | 120m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 21st Apr 2010 | |||
Led P2 and 4and 5. Aided the bolt to get off the ledge
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22 | ★★ Goodbye | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 5th Nov 2011 | |||
Not a great choice for first lead n this trip. But I whimpered less than Neil.
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22 | ★★ Mothers Choice | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 26th May 2012 | |||
Looks daunting but not too bad if you dont scare easily. Had to clean it on a second lap.
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22 | ★★ Juggers dilemma variant | 55m | Bulahdelah | ★ Good | Sat 25th Jan 2014 | |||
Led p1 and 3. THought we were about to race up a grade 14 and it turned out to be a bit more involved with limited gear. Unclear where Johns original goes, but old fixed wire and sling at half height.
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E2 5c E2 5c | ★★ Above and beyond | 12m | Anti-Atlas | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Feb 2014 | |||
Really nice short finger crack
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E1 5c E1 5c | ★★★ Cenotaph Corner | 37m | Llanberis Valley Area | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Jun 2014 | |||
Nice. Polish quite ok
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22 | ★★ Hard Nipples | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 12th Nov 2014 | |||
Really fun (and easier than claw). Would have been an intimidating lead
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22 | ★★ Collision Course | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 17th Oct 2016 | |||
Really nice route and a big stretch, the fewest bees I have seen around this.
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22 | ★★ Puzzlin' Evidence | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st Feb 2017 | |||
Double set of TCUs handy
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22 | ★★★ Rape and Romance | 35m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Apr 2017 | |||
Wasn't sure what the gear was like, so place about a third of it while climbing. Small for the bottom 2/3 with lots of RPs, but it's all there. Too hot and too many March flies to try today, and besides it was super fun even on top rope
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22 | Socially Excited | 25m | Kaputar | Sun 1st Oct 2017 | ||||
Like all the routes here, a bit grungy from lack of traffic, slightly bold gear but funky moves
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22 | ★ Basilisk | 38m | Orroral area | ★ Good | Sat 14th Oct 2017 | |||
Some cool, tenuous moves. I couldn't imagine soloing this
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22 | ★★★ Yankee Go Home | 26m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Jun 2018 | |||
Very nice. Didn't have too much trouble, though some locks were painful
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22 | ★★★ Lonely Teardrops | 22m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Fri 21st Jun 2019 | |||
Was all going well until I dithered at the crux, but managed to hang on. Good gear, I took way too much.
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6c | ★★ trekking Pirineus | 30m | Cavallers | ★★ Very Good | Mon 19th Aug 2019 | |||
Just pitch 1 via large flake then moving left. A bit confused but I gather there’s a new route to the left
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22 R | Friendless | 40m | Arapiles | Average | Wed 15th Mar 2023 | |||
Personal top rope grade 19, probably feels worse on lead. We did the start but finished through roof to right
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22 | ★★ The Second Coming | 57m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 13th Dec 2007 | |||
Pitch 1 only. Mantle was easy. Found the start committing.
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22 | ★★ Ephemeral Direct Finish | 22m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Dec 2007 | |||
Just like the Bluies! Crimpathon and excellent gear after the shared start.
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22 21 | ★ Smile | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 9th Dec 2007 | |||
Only 21. Only 3 wires but in all the right places and bomber.
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22 | ★★ Hidden Secrets | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Dec 2007 | |||
Bouldery start, great wires and cams and stances to place them
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22 | ★★★ Scorpion Corner | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Apr 2010 | |||
Easy for an araps 22. In 2010 and 2011
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22 | ★ Problematic | 10m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 11th Oct 2013 | |||
Flash/os- Dave put in most of the gear, nice crux move
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22 | ★★ Pebbles | 12m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
Daves gear, short but quite pumpy
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22 | ★ Guilty | 20m | The Black Range | ★ Good | Wed 19th Oct 2016 | |||
Would be an out there lead without preplaced gear
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22 | ★★ Great Oz Wall | 50m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Mon 16th Jul 2018 | |||
Started via Drongoland which is still exciting despite 3 bolts. Then all gear. Had done the start before for the other route, but it's still scary, and been on the top of GOW, however it was a totally different experience in placing the gear in the occasionally suspect rock.
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22 | ★★ Mr Meaner | 25m | The Black Range | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | |||
Found this harder than willow millibar. Would be a very intense lead.
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22 | ★★ Out on a Limb | 18m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | |||
Nice face climbing. Would need to suse the gear better, seems fiddle, or in the way
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