Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Sport | ||||||||
22 | ★★ Saccharine Nightmare - with Dave | 100m | Blue Mountains | Mon 15th Apr 2013 | ||||
Led P1 and 2. Nice varied climbing and thoughfully bolted. The finishing pitches are also quite fun. Would be classic if the black slab wasnt in the middle- though its kept interesting by the run out.
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6c 6b | ★★ Corpino | 30m | Haut Atlas | ★ Good | Wed 5th Mar 2014 | |||
A bit escapable I think
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6c | ★ Isidora | 30m | Kalymnos | Average | Thu 3rd Apr 2014 | |||
I didn't like this one that much
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6c+ | ★ Kamari | 20m | Kalymnos | Average | Thu 3rd Apr 2014 | |||
Found this very tricky, and sharp. Not sure about 3 stars!
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6c | ★★ Nabuchodonsor | 35m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Fri 4th Apr 2014 | |||
A little damp, but some good moves, as close as I could get to gladiator today. I refuse to queue
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Bubuki | 25m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Sat 5th Apr 2014 | |||
Great til 2/3 height then awkward moves on suspect rock
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6c+ | ★★ Adolf in the Bay | 20m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Wed 9th Apr 2014 | |||
Nice climb, weird finish.
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6c 6b+ | ★ Iason | 20m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Apr 2014 | |||
Quite tricky
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6c+ | ★★★ Totenhansel | 25m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Apr 2014 | |||
Came close to giving up about 3 times
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6c | ★★ Taz | 27m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Apr 2014 | |||
Found it very pumpy
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6c+ | ★ Boomerang | 30m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Mon 21st Apr 2014 | |||
Love hate. Great moves. Very sharp. Sucked in by the name. Will have to come back to kalymnos.
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6c | ★★ Santa Esmeralda | 22m | Discoteca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th May 2014 | |||
A tricky dihedral
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6c | ★★★ Ramon king of lead | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Sat 10th May 2014 | |||
Nice to be on a tufa.
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6c+ | ★★★ Wat arun | 30m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
A long corner that overhung about 5 metres.
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6c | ★★★ Coconut | 27m | Finale Ligure | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st May 2014 | |||
Another of the Monty ticklist. Indeed a nice little coconut with a lizard in the last pocket below anchors
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6c+ 6c | ★★★ Rank Xerox | 15m | Finale Ligure | ★★★ Classic | Fri 23rd May 2014 | |||
Amazing position, well bolted, accurate grade, brilliant
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6c+ | ★ Humphrey bienfufer | 20m | Rue des Masques | ★ Good | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
Draws were on, nice moves but scary looking conglomerate
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6c | ★★ Un point c'est tout | 20m | Rue des Masques | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
Good moves and 2 overhangs to get over
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5.11b | ★★ Magic in the Air | Banff | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Aug 2014 | ||||
Very reachy at top, had to do another mossy sequence
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5.11b | ★★ Holier than Thou | Smith Rock State Park | ★ Good | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | ||||
Down as a must do 4/4 star route. The top is ok, but not liking these routes much
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5.11b | ★★ Loch Ness Monster | 20m | City of Rocks | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Sep 2014 | |||
Yay, top rope hero
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5.11b | ★★ 80 Feet of Meat | 30m | Rifle Mountain Park | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Sep 2014 | |||
Polished, but nowhere near as bad as arco. Nice moves
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5.11b | ★ Unknown first cave | 15m | St. George | ★ Good | Wed 1st Oct 2014 | |||
Start a bit easier than it appeared
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5.11b | ★ K-6 | 20m | St. George | ★ Good | Wed 1st Oct 2014 | |||
Good, but quite scary bolting with ledge fall potential
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22 | ★★ Cheap Skate | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Tue 9th Dec 2014 | |||
Some hard moves between horizontals at 167cm
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22 | ★★ Hunky Dory Left Hand Variant | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Thu 1st Jan 2015 | |||
Big ledge decking potential. Preferred this variant finish
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22 | ★ Kiama | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 29th Mar 2015 | |||
The bottom third is nice, thought 21
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22 | ★★ Praise the Llewd | 25m | Blue Mountains | Average | Fri 18th Dec 2015 | |||
Not sure if this finishes on arête. Guidebook suggests continuation is a link up at 24. But not 22 to there....
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22 | ★ Immaculate temptress | 20m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sun 24th Apr 2016 | |||
Again a bit dirty, but really nice climbing
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22 | ★★ Dreams of Solitude | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Apr 2016 | |||
Great moves
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5.11b | ★★ Grave robber | 20m | Mount Lemmon | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st May 2016 | |||
Nice rock, nice moves, good quartz seam
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5.11 5.10d | ★★ Stealin' | 18m | La Milagrosa Canyon | ★ Good | Tue 31st May 2016 | |||
Nice thin moves low, and intimidating to look at roof
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22 | ★★ Out of Tits | 18m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Mon 14th Nov 2016 | |||
Miscounted the routes due to general gridding but didn't want to do the yucky top bit again on the 23. A nice link up
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22 | ★★ Fight or Flight | 15m | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Sun 20th Nov 2016 | |||
Nice pockets but wtf with the bash in carrots
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22 | ★★★ Passing Wind | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Dec 2016 | |||
Got surprisingly pumped on such a big hold climb, probably due to placing draws in locked off positions
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5.11b | ★★ Dark Matters | 32m | Blanket Creek Buttress | ★ Good | Thu 13th Jul 2017 | |||
Definitely a taller persons route. Some desperate lunges from me, and significantly more run out than Darkside
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5.11b | ★ Is That Your Dog? | 25m | Canmore | Average | Tue 18th Jul 2017 | |||
A bit more run out and rock quality a bit iffy. Exciting crux
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5.11b | ★★ Altered Beast | 18m | Jasper National Park | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2017 | |||
Pretty juggy and not that hard
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 19th May 2018 | |||
Nice moves, definitely no harder than the route to the left
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22 | ★★ Tory Tossers | 11m | Sand River | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd May 2019 | |||
Overbolted and short but nice rock and good movement
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6c | ★ Siete | 20m | Desfiladero de la Hermida | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Sep 2019 | |||
Not too hard
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6c | ★★ Dolce & marrana | 25m | Camarasa | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Oct 2019 | |||
More awesome pockets with no polish
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6c | ★★★ Gorronya Kejorronya | 35m | Camarasa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Oct 2019 | |||
Full value
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6c | ★★ Fina | 28m | Collegats | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Oct 2019 | |||
Thouroughly engaging incipient finger crack and pockets
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6c | ★★ Vasectomia al dia | 27m | Os de Balaguer | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | |||
Nice steep flake to start then cool pocket sequence up high
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22 | ★★ Rogue Fort | 16m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | |||
Really reachy around second bolt
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22 | ★★ Truck stop Party Girl | 22m | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Nov 2019 | |||
Thankful for the ledge between the crux bits. Great climb in 2 halves
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22 | ★ The Tiger Snake | 12m | Sand River | ★ Good | Sat 18th Jan 2020 | |||
A bit escapable, though that will result in choss
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22 | ★ Copacobana | 20m | Watagans | ★ Good | Sun 28th Jun 2020 | |||
Probably worth a rebolt and anchors, some nice face moves. At present the top requires a medium cam and a small cam in some crossly placements , and there are no anchors whereas the guide says there is.
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22 | ★★ Scorched Earth | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Jul 2020 | |||
Nice technical slabbing that coincided with the hour that was warm enough to feel my fingers
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22 | ★★ Aphelion (Aphelion p4 / Rubicon p3) | 87m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Thu 13th Aug 2020 | |||
Not sure if being shorter helps at first then hinders later
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22 | ★★ Gastro Pod | 12m | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jun 2021 | |||
Nice moves between horizontals
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22 | ★ Leia | 15m | Sand River | ★ Good | Mon 21st Feb 2022 | |||
It’s ok, though I was berating the equipper for the ground fall run out to the last bolt, but realised I had missed the second last bolt on the way down. Sorry.
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22 Easy | ★★ Spook Flake | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Mar 2023 | |||
I didn’t think it was hard except the reachy bit straight off the ledge if you can’t reach the top of the flake. Both halves have nice moves. A bit too much mizzle coming in to do more today, but nice spot .
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7 | ★ St. Pavel | 25m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||
Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka
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7 ~7- | ★ Adjöss och tack för fisken | 18m | Ofoten | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
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6c | ★★ Bagoi | 25m | Breguzzo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | |||
The Sandinista of Breguzzo, about 5m overhanging. My crack glove tried to reject doing a sports route, I got spiders down my t shirt and there was some type of poo in some of the pockets. Great journey!
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6c | ★★ Lo scorpione | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||
Nice varied and technical route, no real sting in the tail, but a few of cruxy sequences below
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22 | ★★ 45 degrees of seperation (Left cave overhanging arete) | 6m | Koolewong | ★ Good | Thu 15th May 2008 | |||
Onsight with a beta stream. Quite hard.
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22 | ★★ It Goes! | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Fri 6th Apr 2007 | |||
pleasant enough, rock a bit friable
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22 22 M0 | Even shorter circuit | 14m | Blue Mountains | Average | Thu 29th Nov 2007 | |||
From ledge above 2nd bolt do rest of route M0,22
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22 | ★ Long Black (The Manic Barrista) | 10m | Bulahdelah | ★ Good | Fri 28th Nov 2008 | |||
Did it very different to Frankie
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22 | ★★ SWALK | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 21st Jan 2006 | |||
kept waiting for a crux
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22 | ★★★ Amazon Queens Right Hand (flake) Variant | 20m | Nowra | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | |||
onsight flash- draws were on. Great moves.
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22 | ★ Mechanical Advantage | 13m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 4th Mar 2006 | |||
nice moves, better than it looks
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22 20 | ★ Lame Duck (Right variant tufa sports climb) | 15m | Bungonia Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 12th Apr 2009 | |||
A little crumbly but good
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22 | ★★ Greasy Chiko Roll | 18m | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ★ Good | Sun 15th Feb 2009 | |||
Almost traddlike
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22 23 | ★★ Mal's Mega Route | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 27th Feb 2010 | |||
goey crimping
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6c | ★ El Punga | 15m | El Chalten | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Apr 2013 | |||
Quite nice rock, unlike most of the other routes. Some tricky moves
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22 | Johns Groove direct finish | 20m | Bulahdelah | Average | Thu 7th Nov 2013 | |||
Did this a while back. I think I prefer right side of arete to finish.
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6c 6c+ | ★★ Cyclops | 20m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Apr 2014 | |||
Thanks to dave fort he draws and beta, was coming off this otherwise
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6c+ 7a+ | ★ Lupo Alberto | 40m | Nago | ★ Good | Mon 5th May 2014 | |||
Pitch one only 6c+, crimps
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6c+ | ★★ Vita Da Corridoio | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th May 2014 | ||||
Arête slapping fun
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6c | ★★ Cornetto (Cometto) | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th May 2014 | ||||
Nice start, middle and end, quite goey at the end.
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6c 7a+ | ★ Happy hour | 40m | Fessourier | ★ Good | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | |||
Spaced bolts, good moves.
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6c+ | ★★ Le torcheur d'elephants | 25m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★ Good | Tue 17th Jun 2014 | |||
Nice, especially the first half.
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5.11b | ★★ Spike n vein | 15m | Sinks Canyon | ★ Good | Fri 12th Sep 2014 | |||
Having the draws on definitely helped through the bulge
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5.11b | ★★ Burning grandmas bones | 25m | Ten Sleep Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Sep 2014 | |||
Great varied climb
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5.11b | ★★★ Mandarin Orange | 25m | Owens River Gorge | Sat 11th Oct 2014 | ||||
A lot of chalk on bad holds
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22 | ★★ Non Stop Crush | 17m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Jan 2015 | |||
Easier than engineering feats of the 80s which climbs similar features, but then that is old school 22...
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22 | ★★ Hercules | 15m | The Cathedral | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Feb 2015 | |||
Easier than Imogen. Wish it was longer
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22 | ★★ Plumtastic | 16m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 7th Feb 2015 | |||
Better than appearances
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22 | ★★ Cornerstone (Thriller Direct) | 18m | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ★ Good | Sat 11th Apr 2015 | |||
Put draws on lowering off GG
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5.11b | ★★ Heliopolis | 30m | Canmore | ★ Good | Tue 18th Jul 2017 | |||
Another nice long route
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22 | ★★ The Belles, The Belles | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2017 | |||
Rpt, less classic now, either I have got fussy or am missing the scare factor of the old bolts
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22 | ★ Red Eye Sleep Deprivation Torture | 20m | Bulahdelah | ★ Good | Sat 18th Nov 2017 | |||
Nice send by John, easier with chalk on holds. Top bit is good, you just have to get there
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22 | ★ Volcano | 8m | Watagans | ★ Good | Fri 8th Mar 2019 | |||
Had to clean it so not an os. Short but fun
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6c | ★ El ball del vent | 25m | Os de Balaguer | ★ Good | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | |||
The amount of glue around the flake made me nervous.
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22 | ★ Grey Goshawk | 15m | Sand River | Average | Sat 18th Jan 2020 | |||
A soft dave Humphris route?
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22 | ★★★ The Null Hypothesis | 30m | Bruny Island | ★★★ Classic | Mon 22nd Mar 2021 | |||
Start was wet for about 8m with some weird ocean spooge factor. Onsighted really but Dave had put some draws on on the way down. Great rock apart from being wet.
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22 | ★ Wok Hay | 15m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 15th Oct 2022 | |||
Go the kneebar
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6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | |||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
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22 | FA Cast Off | 10m | Bouddi National Park | Average | Wed 21st Jul 2010 | |||
A DOD style link up- no extra bolts required. Linking ledge detracts
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22 | FA ★★ Solar Flare | 15m | Mt Ku-ring-gai | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Apr 2007 | |||
nice sustained route with high crux
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22 | FA ★ Siliconciousness | 14m | Mt Ku-ring-gai | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Jun 2006 | |||
small fingers may help
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22 | FA ★★ Austri (pitch one) | 30m | Wingello | ★ Good | Wed 9th Jul 2008 | |||
Hard start esp with a rack on you
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22 | ★★ Shut the Gate | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 10th Jun 2006 | |||
rpt ascent as warm up on a very cold day.
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22 | FA ★ Whispering Pectoriloquy | 8m | Skate Park | ★ Good | Sat 9th Oct 2004 | |||
short but very sweet
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22 | ★★ Frogstomp | 20m | Nowra | ★ Good | Sun 14th Jun 2009 | |||
hard crux
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22 | ★★ Extension Lead | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 4th Mar 2007 | |||
the start seemed a lot easier than post nepal weakness
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