★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) 17

Grade context: AU
Length: 130m
Bolts: 12
Pitches: 5
Ascents: 257

Access: Parking meters have been installed

Blue Mountains City Council has installed parking meters at Sublime Point in December 2023. If you are not a resident of the Blue Mtns LGA the costs are $12/hour or $38/day if you download the Paystay app and purchase a daypass. You cannot purchase a day pass from the meter - you must use the app (which takes several minutes to configure once downloaded). Time limits are 12 hours. We understand these rates are very steep and you may wish to park further down the road for free. Try and avoid parking on grass lawns and be careful not to cause traffic issues by blocking this narrow road with larger vans. ACANSW has been in discussions with Blue Mtns City Council about the possibility of cheaper parking rates. This will not be resolved until early 2024 at earliest.

See warning details and discuss

Created 5 months ago - Edited 4 months ago

description

A link-up of Sweet Dreams into Saccharine Nightmare that creates a sport climbers version of Sweet Dreams - giving slightly harder climbing and a lot more bolts. You will still need a couple of cams for Sweet Dreams pitch 2.

20m (13) Pitch 1 of Sweet Dreams (ring bolts + slings)
30m (12) Pitch 2 of Sweet Dreams (cams - no bolts)
30m (12) Pitch 3 of Sweet Dreams to end of traverse and double RB belay. Continue past the first set of DRB to the second set 8m further. (ring bolts)
35m (17) Pitch 3 of Saccharine Nightmare (12 ringbolts)
10m (14) Pitch 4 of Saccharine Nightmare (3 ringbolts)

Route history

There is no known route history.

Warnings

16 Dec 2023	Fixed Gear: ~~Left anchor ring loose pitch 3~~ Resolved
6 Dec 2023	Warning Access: Parking meters have been installed

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.73435, 150.33704

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

17	Assigned grade
	★★★private
14,11,12,17,15	★★Francois Pieterse
17 [16 - 17]	grAId
14, 14, 18, 14	★★★Jason Morton

ethic

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.

inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 81 from 143 ratings.

Difficulty - 17

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 8 ratings.

Suggested Grade

17
18

Based on 8 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight	53	53
Flash	4	4
Red point	27	27
Tick	73	73
Top rope	1	1
Attempt	5	5
Target	2	2

Comment keywords

incredible fantastic awesome fun enjoyable amazing classic nice beautiful good pleasant perfect sweet great rad super stoked brilliant cool exciting sustained hard overhung pumped solid crux tough reachy face steep jugs cruisy traverse short easy hands epic feet rest flake slabby fall exposed

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Blue Mountains Climbing Guide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Buy

ⓘ

Best Of The Blue Blue Mountains Select Guide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Buy

ⓘ